onehotminute_191 Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 if anyone has a late 97 /98 gti can you tell me the part number for the tranciever and for the central door locking module? then i can get the exact parts and give it another tryI can give you the finis code if that will help. Up to 3/96 the transceiver had a fixed wire - from 3/96 on it had a plug on it. They changed the finis code in 97. mine says 96ap and has a green plug but meeksta is sending me the one that was originally on the car so ill use that and see. also i been trying to figure out where the problem is. because the fuel pump isnt priming and there no spark when i hot wire it to turn over (with the key in the ignition on number 2) i think the problem is the ecu. maybe not the ecu itself but theres either a lack of power or signals to tell the engine what to do. also the engine doesnt turn over by the key. does that circuit also run through the ecu or is it literally a straight connection from the key to the starter solenoid? becuase its about a 4mm cable off the key but all the cables in the ecu are only about 1mm - 1.5mm unless the circuit goes elsewhere thats also controlled by the ecu? All the problems you are describing are due to the PATS immobiliser doing its job. Simply put, PATS reads the serial number of the ignition key, and if it isn't one of the keys programmed into the ecu the car won't turn over or start if you hot wire it. Does the led on the dash flash fast when you turn the key? The starter is wired through a relay which is controlled by the ecu - hence the thin wiring. Fuel pump and spark are also controlled by the ecu. I don't think that the transceiver is programmed with a unique serial number. I changed one on a Fiesta and it worked fine, but Escorts may be different. I don't understand why you are changing the ecu if you are putting a 1.8 in place of a 1.8 though? because the ecu was sold with the keys by the previous owner. i used my own ecu that is for a 130ps 1.8 i need to check that the wiring for that ecu (rq) matches the cars ecu loom (rk) i think theres the right codes. either way if those to match i have no problem. the keys have previously been coded to that ecu and it was all working in the other car. meeksta (who i got the car off) said that after the engine broke down he couldnt start it by the key either? i check the fuel cut off switch but thats ok. apart from trying all standard parts and checking all the plugs and looms i cant see what the problem is because it all worked before. and no the red LED doesnt do anything when turning the key. only when you lock the car. i thought that was wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Ok. Take a step back - what are you trying to do? Are you trying to get a previously non running car going by changing the ecu (on the assumption that it had died and that was the fault), or are you trying to get a different engine running in your car by doing an engine and matching ecu swap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onehotminute_191 Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 Ok. Take a step back - what are you trying to do? Are you trying to get a previously non running car going by changing the ecu (on the assumption that it had died and that was the fault), or are you trying to get a different engine running in your car by doing an engine and matching ecu swap? apparently the engine didnt turn over by the key after it broke down. and by the sounds of it it was only pistons rings so then engine was still running. after it was towed it wouldnt start again. maybe the problem occured during the towing?? anyway. im going to check the ecu matches the wiring loom and then if it does and still doesnt work the problem has to be either a connection or a break in the wiring. i have a feeling the ecu isnt getting a proper feed because the red LED doesnt light up at all when turning the key but when you lock the doors on the central locking its glows for a few seconds like normal. that points to either a break, bad connection or fuse box issues,. either crap fusebox or a relay or something. although i have tried 2 fuse boxes and plenty of different relays. so i dont think it is that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meekstaaa Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 if it helps it was towed by a flat bed. I'm really stumped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I would put your original ecu - transceiver - etc back in your car first (so that you know you have a good engine management system), and see if the engine turns over - it should even if it won't start. If it doesn't turn over, then I would check the wring and sensor plugs on the engine. If you still can't find anything wrong, then try changing the sensors one by one for the ones off of your old engine. From your desciption of what happened, my guess would be that a sensor failed and the car went into limp home mode, but the fault now being seen by the ecu is too serious to try to start the car. You may even find once you get it to turn over that it will start on your ecu - it just might not run too well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meekstaaa Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 its a new engine that wouldn't have the same fault. the ECU's don't have a limp home mode..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 the ECU's don't have a limp home mode..... That's not actually true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onehotminute_191 Posted April 12, 2008 Author Share Posted April 12, 2008 well yeah like meeksta said the engine ive put in was the one ive had in my car for the last year and the last month its been running on the ecu ive put in. i havent managed to find out yet the wiring systems. the car is an RK and my ecu is RQ from a 130. apparently the PATS cables may be in the wrong place but i cant tell yet as i dont have the diagrams. apart from that i dont want to try anything else because if i start that i might cause more problems. if anyone has pin out diagrams of RQ and RK ecu looms it would be helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 Here's one to help you..... http://di.cx/stuff/RQB_ecu_pinout.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onehotminute_191 Posted April 13, 2008 Author Share Posted April 13, 2008 Here's one to help you..... http://di.cx/stuff/RQB_ecu_pinout.pdf cheers for that stu but i already have that one. do you have an RK one? i need to compare them. Here's one to help you..... http://di.cx/stuff/RQB_ecu_pinout.pdf cheers for that stu but i already have that one. do you have an RK one? i need to compare them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onehotminute_191 Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share Posted April 15, 2008 ive plugged in a 97 gti ecu now and that has made a diffence. now the red led flashes constantly about 1 flash every 2 seconds. then when you lock up the car its stays lit for a few seconds then does double flashes like it should. but as soon as you unlock it it goes back to single flashes constantly. no difference when you put in the key and turn it. so what does that mean??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 Access Denied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onehotminute_191 Posted April 18, 2008 Author Share Posted April 18, 2008 Access Denied. why does there seem to be such a lack of the wiring diagrams about? they seem far to difficult to find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 ok i have come across this problem when doing engine swaps to my car. these problems on a number of ocations have been cured by different means. 1. check the fuses at thebattery, make sure they havent blown, 1 of them controls the fusebox/ecu side of things 2. check/replace the fusebox 3.ecu pats has kicked in, you need to get the correct key for the correct ECU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onehotminute_191 Posted April 19, 2008 Author Share Posted April 19, 2008 ok i have come across this problem when doing engine swaps to my car. these problems on a number of ocations have been cured by different means. 1. check the fuses at thebattery, make sure they havent blown, 1 of them controls the fusebox/ecu side of things 2. check/replace the fusebox 3.ecu pats has kicked in, you need to get the correct key for the correct ECU but does my 130ps ecu fit onto the rk wiring? its a gti car but the ecu is from a 95 130ps with internal pats and edis same as the other ecu's. i have all the right keys for the 130 ecu but not the gti one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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