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Craig855S

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Actually getting to the blu ray drive is easy enough, but taking it apart could be interesting. Dont forget to take pictures so you dont need to remember where everything came from.

 

You could pop the pictures on here when youre done, Id like to see what the insides of the blu ray drive look like.

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All done! And I've just slapped GT5 straight in and it's working (downloading update 1.05 that i missed)

 

I followed this video from youtube, had to pause it every now and again and rewatch bits and bobs so I knew exactly where to route wires and how short the cables were before yanking bits around, but it was really easy. If anyone ever gets the same snag I got then i'd recomend DIYing it, cost me less than £40 for the new laser deck and the anti-tamper T10 bit (Though i'd recomend having the perfect phillips driver aswell, luckily I have a huge selection, the watchmakers phillips I initially thought would work was too big, I had to use a mega pointy b*stard)

Now I'm just fearful that this laser will fail in a short amount of time (apparently not uncommon, means the problem lies elsewhere and it fries the new deck after a couple of uses)

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Reballing or reflowing?

 

 

reball !! i had to remove the small bga nand chip from the old drive board and mount it to the new one !!

 

my original board was totaly busted !!

 

Reballing or reflowing?

 

 

reball !! i had to remove the small bga nand chip from the old drive board and mount it to the new one !!

 

my original board was totally busted !!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zh46cR6k3s

 

i followed this vid !! i had a few practice runs on a few old bga chips first !! when i was happy with the final practice chip i did the real thing !!

 

it tuck a couple of attempts to get it mounted properly but worked in the end !!

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Why would you want to reball the CPU and GPU, i thought the problem with CPUs and GPUs was merely bad themeral compounding between the heatsinks? I've heard re-fitting the heatsinks using arctic silver pretty much guarantees fantastic life out of them

 

If that were the case then they wouldn't need reflowing or reballing.

 

The problem is apparently due to the solder between either the CPU or GPU and motheroard failing after time due to the temperature, reflowing is supposed to partially melt the solder and bridge any small gaps. I've had to do this to my mate's PS3 twice now, as once they go they keep going unless they get reballed. I use Arctic Silver each time, and yes, I do use the right amount. Still, he got fed up and sold me his old PS3 for £25. Win.

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A pain in what way?

 

 

getting all the solder joints to take !! i think most of the problem was trying to apply even pressure to the cpu walst at the same time holding the heat gun ! and trying not to damage the small chips on top of the cpu which were already taking a beating with the heat gun !!

 

but it wasent that bad with the ps3's bga chip!

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