p4u1 Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 I'm fitting remote locking to my escort si and have a little issue of it not working the unit has 6 wires running from it to operate the locking depending on what type of lock system it is am I right in saying the escort is possative trigger locking or not? And electric not pneumatic?http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/p4u188/6f273ac9.jpgThese are the wires I'm on about yellow/black, White/black, orange/black, yellow, White, orange. And this is where I need to connect it to?http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/p4u188/0fa68497.jpgI've read up in the Haynes and the little info in the manual for the remote locking kit and the White/black , White is the unlocking and locking of the doors so in the Haynes I've found the door locks to be yellow for lock and White for unlock so connected all up and nothing happening http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/p4u188/d333e2ad.jpghttp://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/p4u188/8301c953.jpg Any help and advice needed thanks pref if you have fitted one before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_gti Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 is that a Hawk RCL kit?? check the wires you have scotch loked as i believe there are 2 wires in that location that are the same colour, just differ slightly on size Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p4u1 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 I've wrapped them around each other then scotch locked it lol, no it's not hawk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Im pretty sure fords are negative pulse. least thats how I remember the dozens of aftermarket ones Ive fitted.....including my current full closure one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p4u1 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/p4u188/0fa68497.jpgDo I connect it up to the bunch on the left the smaller wires then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_gti Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i421/p4u188/0fa68497.jpgDo I connect it up to the bunch on the left the smaller wires then? I'm sure its the thicker wires, but there are 2 of the same colour just differ in size Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMGTI Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 I'm sure its the thicker wires, but there are 2 of the same colour just differ in size +1 its the thicker wires you need, I followed the haynes colour codes when fitting my toad alarm and had to swap them round as it unlocked on arming and locked when disarming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Do I connect it up to the bunch on the left the smaller wires then? I'm sure its the thicker wires, but there are 2 of the same colour just differ in size the thicker ones are various power and alarm/ecu/immobilizer wires the firing wires for the CL are in with the thinner wires on the left. from memory.... 95 - earlier (mk5,Mk5b): Brown, Brown/Red (brown being the "lock") 95 - onwards (late Mk5b,Mk6): Yellow, Yellow/black (yellow being the "Unlock") its of note that adding a aftermarket remote system renders your deadlocking feature redundant, I personally always disconnect the door barrel rods or de-lock entirely after fitting the remote system, giving you back the security of deadlocking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p4u1 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 De locking lol good luck if ure battery goes flat when it's locked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 De locking lol good luck if ure battery goes flat when it's locked really? connection for a 9v square battery wired direct to the drivers solenoid, hidden where ever you want (petrol filler is a fave easy access area for such and where Ive hidden a delocked door opening button before now). though the solenoids are 12v the 9v battery is more than enough to fire the solenoid 2-3 times when its touched to the contacts, which is enough to open the door and pop the bonnet to reach the battery. as if Id have not thought of that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p4u1 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Fair enough lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p4u1 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 +1 its the thicker wires you need, I followed the haynes colour codes when fitting my toad alarm and had to swap them round as it unlocked on arming and locked when disarming. Do you know which colours they were mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p4u1 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Come on someone must no I've tried every way possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanHeaven Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 is it a ford kit you are fitting if so have you tried to recode the blip ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p4u1 Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 All sorted now il rustle up a how 2 shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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