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Sub and Amp fitting


35 replies to this topic

#16 Mattyboy101

Mattyboy101
  • Location:Essex and Manchester
  • Drives:Nothing at the moment

Posted 01 May 2005 - 04:18 PM

Might be a silly question - but have you fitted all the fuses in place?

Check all the cables are done up tight, and that you have a good earth.
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#17 Pete

Pete
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  • Location:South Stand - White Hart Lane
  • Drives:B6 Audi S4 - 4.2L V8

Posted 01 May 2005 - 04:24 PM

Theres only one fuse - the inline one on the 12v feed ?(

All connections are tight and correct :thumb: And the earth point was an existing one and I even scratched the paint off aswell :(
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#18 Mattyboy101

Mattyboy101
  • Location:Essex and Manchester
  • Drives:Nothing at the moment

Posted 01 May 2005 - 04:28 PM

Have you checked it is intact, and so are the fuses on the amp?

You should be seeing something, even if it just the protection light
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#19 sortedford

sortedford
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Coventry
  • Drives:TROCSE DROF A

Posted 01 May 2005 - 04:28 PM

did you connect the remote lead to the back of the head unit?
have you got a test meter?if so see if theres any power at the amp end of the remote lead, to test you can also take a feed from the + to the amp onto the remote terminal of the amp, handy if you havent a tester as that will let you know if its earthed and getting power propperly.

also you have put a fuse in the amp lead?
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#20 Pete

Pete
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:South Stand - White Hart Lane
  • Drives:B6 Audi S4 - 4.2L V8

Posted 01 May 2005 - 04:34 PM

The fuse in the 12v feed is fine :thumb:

Remote is connected to the 'remote cont' wire from the h/u :thumb:

Will get the multimeter on it tomorrow and test the remote lead. Where do I put the -ve probe ?(
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#21 sortedford

sortedford
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Coventry
  • Drives:TROCSE DROF A

Posted 01 May 2005 - 05:02 PM

the minus of the multimeter just needs to go to a good earth point on the body, if you do that and get a good signal, keep the + on the remote lead and try the - on the amp minus just to seeif the amp maybe has a bad earth, also is the fuse in the amp ok?
you can also test the + and minus on the amp with the multimeter as the + will still be a 12v constant when the amp is on or off, the remote is only a 'switch'
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#22 Pete

Pete
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:South Stand - White Hart Lane
  • Drives:B6 Audi S4 - 4.2L V8

Posted 01 May 2005 - 05:03 PM

Cheers lads, few things to try tomorrow. Just hope its something simple, like me :D
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#23 sortedford

sortedford
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Coventry
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Posted 01 May 2005 - 05:06 PM

shame u wernt closer pete id do it for ya
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#24 Pete

Pete
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:South Stand - White Hart Lane
  • Drives:B6 Audi S4 - 4.2L V8

Posted 01 May 2005 - 05:09 PM

LOL, could do with giving the car a good ragging, pi$$ed me right off today :devil:
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#25 sortedford

sortedford
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Coventry
  • Drives:TROCSE DROF A

Posted 01 May 2005 - 05:25 PM

if you want pop to bradford n ill do it then :pancake:
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#26 Pete

Pete
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:South Stand - White Hart Lane
  • Drives:B6 Audi S4 - 4.2L V8

Posted 01 May 2005 - 05:52 PM

Nah, not too keen on Bradford since I watched East is East :roll: Thanks for the offer though :thumb:
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#27 sortedford

sortedford
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Coventry
  • Drives:TROCSE DROF A

Posted 01 May 2005 - 06:07 PM

you dont have to live here :(
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#28 Pete

Pete
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:South Stand - White Hart Lane
  • Drives:B6 Audi S4 - 4.2L V8

Posted 02 May 2005 - 11:48 AM

Progress :drunk: Kinda :(

Turns out the remote output on the h/u is dead ;( Am using a bridge on the amp from the 12v to the remote, so its running off a permanent live for now :tired:

Whats my options as I really dont want to keep it like this, only thing I could think of was to put a switch on the bridging wire and just use it like that, or try and get the remote on the h/u sorted......
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#29 sortedford

sortedford
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Coventry
  • Drives:TROCSE DROF A

Posted 02 May 2005 - 11:57 AM

well as it is it will drain the battery.
1) do you have a electric arial out onthe hu? use that
2) take a feed from the ignition wire so the amps on when the ignition is (use the one thats from the ignition to the stereo) you could also add a switch that way it can only be on when the ignition and the switch is, handy if you ever want to turn it off while driving i wouldnt bother tho.
3) take a smaller + feed from a source ie head unit power, put a switch in and run it to the sub. not really advised as you could forget and leave it on n get a dead batt
Stickers, Sparkplug Covers etc.. Visit the EVO shop here !!!

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#30 Pete

Pete
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:South Stand - White Hart Lane
  • Drives:B6 Audi S4 - 4.2L V8

Posted 02 May 2005 - 12:06 PM

well as it is it will drain the battery.

Wire is disconnected at the mo ;)

1) do you have a electric arial out onthe hu? use that.

The aerial is now connected to the (standalone) processor unit for the screen, could use that easily, does that only become live with the ignition then ?( (aerial isnt electric)

2) take a feed from the ignition wire so the amps on when the ignition is (use the one thats from the ignition to the stereo)

If I knew which one that was :( There fcuking loads :roll:

I've left the remote wire in situ, so I just need to find a feed for it. See, I'm smart like that :D :roll:
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