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I have ForDiag (from Tomin). I have one Mondeo here with 118 Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor circuit above maximum voltage/ -40°F indicated The car starts, power is ok, drives well etc. both before and after i deleted the error. With the engine running, the dials in the software show absolutely normal temperature in the whole temp range - from cold start to fan ON. Read errors several times - no error. Switched off the engine and back on ignition, read the errors - the 118 code was there. Ok, we pushed some wires and wire harness here and there around the engine while watching the temp gauge in the program while the engine was runing but didnt see even slight movement out of normal. We have a suspition that the signal return wire (not the 5v line on which is the TPS and MAF too) may short somewhere to either 5v or 12v line, but the engine runs so smooth even while pushing the wires around that its very strange...and suddenly that error. Any other suggestions where or what might be the problem?

So after all i've decided to abandon 2.0 conversion and turbo in the escort so i'll use my own 1.8 RKC engine to go turbo. For the purpose i'll use audi 1.8T pistons but as far as i read there are several types depending on the engine type and year they were in. The least thats bothering is that their piston to conrod pin size varies between 19 and 21mm, but if i were to use LET or XE pistons in 2.0 zetec i'd have to redrill the rods to 21mm anyway. So the main things i'd like to know are which pistons give what CR and what modifications if any are necessary to the piston skirt. Obviously big part of the question is for the audi forum but i hope that someone here has done this conversion or at least has more info to share.

Yeah. Thats why using this "method" the last time my engine was timed after the water pump was changed, non of the shafts were where they must be and the car ran like crap in the lower revs +2ltr up in the consumption with light foot. When the crank was on position using dial gauge, the intake was somewhere around the "OK" term, the exhaust was so far retarded that a little more and the piston was gonna have a meeting with the gents. You can't time the car properly like that. These markings are to get the car running. There is also crank locking tool but even these may offset the crank by some degree. So degree wheel and dial gauge through the spark plug hole.

Yes. But to get true TDC you must use degree wheel and dial gauge.

Here is an actual pic. Think welding will work? Fluids are fine tho - antifreeze is completely drained, the oil is on the MAX and its good fresh oil. Nothing anywhere, only oil from the gearbox is still dripping on the ground rarely from somewhere

Hi there, so recently i found mk2 Mondeo automatic with silvertop engine and 76500km on the clock which is ~47,5k miles. Been driven by woman, maybe hit animal, lost control and rolled. The whole bellhousing of the gearbox is cracked and it rests on the flywheel and engine ears (through which the bolts go through to bolt on the bellhousing) are all fine except one - the one under the starter. The question is - how much of a problem will this be? The engine will go in Escort mk6 with diesel MTX gearbox. Here are example pics: http://prikachi.com/images/102/7717102S.jpg http://prikachi.com/images/103/7717103n.jpg

Is there any difference in the 2.0 block of zetec before '95 and after '95? /without blacktop being considered/ Thanks

Im sure this scorpio throttle-body causes some driveability issues in the lower revs. It migh help a little /and still dabateable/ in the high end but i doubt as it's just 1.6 and the peak hp is at only 5250 rpm... No wonder Stu asked what have you done to the engine to flow better. Hell, im with 1.8 115hp and i can sense the troubles in the low end with 2.0 throttle even with 2.0 ecu and HO inlet. At least get the cams changed for 1.8 105hp ones imo

880 is in the books.

Hi, i recently bought a set of 4 adjustable KONI shocks off e-bay and they are superb except that on the rear ones, the holder for the bottom of the spring is separate from the shock and it's size is for a smaller diameter spring than the original ford one. Here's a pic of the set and you can see them separately in a plastic bag: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/KlgAAOxyx-BSbTe6/$(KGrHqJ,!ooFJQhyLC)1BSbTe5z73Q~~60_12.JPG I'd like to know if the shocks have to come with a set of spring holders for any type of springs or at least with a set (two) one fo which is for the original ford springs and the other is the one i got? So i know if the seller has sent me only the holders for the smaller diameter springs and not the ones for the standard ford springs. Thanks

i'm electritian ant this option is very tempting to do But i want the 'original stuff' and i know for sure that there are 2 or 3 components which must be added at certain places on the fuse box and it works. They are a blue relay (maybe it's with normally closed contacts but i'm not sure), maybe a diode and another thing. The thing is that a year and a half ago i saw them in a forum, a guy was selling "the kit", bookmarked it but now the thread is gone and i can't remember what were the other things on the photo besides the relay. The schematics arent very helpful either. Me and some other guys tried to decipher them - in haynes, in TIS, Tolerance and some other programs with schematics, tried different combinations with blue relays and things but no success. You are honored here to be the last hope for the human race to be able to setup factory DRL on Escort

so nobody here knows what needs to be added to get the DRL running funny

Correction to the 1st set, so the fronts are: "spring - front, blue / orange / grey, (cabriolet, 1.6l zetec-e, automatic or saloon/cabriolet/4 door estate, 1.8l diesel turbo) §" The main question now is only the rear springs from the 1st set, the ones with 3 red stripes on 3 separate coils - what are they from. The rest isn't relevant anymore

and another correction to the 3rd set - if the colors on the rear are actualy blue / grey / brown then they are: "spring - rear, blue / grey / brown, cabriolet §" and "spring - rear, blue / grey / brown, 4/5 door saloon, zetec-e, ghia §" I guess before the xr3 and rs2k this set is the stiffest - fronts with 700kg payload and rears for a tent. OK so the 3rd set is sorted.

Little correction to the 3rd set, the front ones are violet / yellow / blue read top to bottom on the pic - was cleaning them and a tiny blue spot show up under the yellow stripe. ... which identifies them as: "spring - front, blue / yellow / violet, (3/4/5 door saloon, 1.8l zetec-e, clx or 3/4/5 door saloon, 1.6l zetec-e, clx or 3/4/5 door saloonm 1.6l zetec-e gl or 3/4/5 door saloon, 1.6l zetec-e, ghia or 3/4/5 door saloon 1.8l zetec-e, ghia) §" and "spring - front, blue / yellow / violet, payload 700kg, van kent diesel, §"