Georgio

Perhaps I don't understand something, but... isn't is possible to count the pins on the ECU connector? It is in double groups of 10 pins in each row and has 3 rows if it is EEC IV. At least my RST ECU, my sierra ECU and my previous loom on my Escort which was 1.4 cfi... all of them are EEC IV and the connector is 60 pinned even if the pins are not all populated, the connector holes are there numbered from the side that the wires goes inside the connector...

Internal or external edis? I guess internal... PATS or no PATS? Any kind of immobilizer? Do you have fuel or neither this? Do you hear the fuel pump prime?

Yes, I second that, although not on all models... although regarding power and grounds most of the times is correct, it may have some differences regarding the wiring on sensors. So have a look and always measure with a multimeter before chopping and connecting again...

Agree to Stu. If you have the old one, you will notice that it will have a coloured ring somewhere, usually near the signal wire connector. Ensure that the new one is of the same colour, or else you have a different thermal range sensor. Does the rad fans kick in the same time they used to and run approximately the same time? Also.. it is good to avoid running the engine with the rad cap off. It is common practice to do it to take off air from the circulation, but since the radiator circuit is sealed normally, if you let the cap off you lower the boiling temp range, simple physics...

Thank you very much Stu for your advice, and everyone else who contributed, really appreciate it. No, it is not on factory specs, you are right. Unfortunately at this time he is a bit skint from various garages trying to find problems without having success, although he paid for it, unfortunatelly this is how they work here, you have to pay their time and for now he can't afford buy a chip. Further that, due to family issues he will pospone it. I will just set it up to the correct AFR ratios under boost and idling, at least the best I can under these specs, I intend to set it at around 11.5 - 12 under boost and 14.7-15 idle and test it for a couple of days. And with the first opportunity I will advice him to chip it.

Yeah, it's in the plans. He also bought a wideband from AEM, I will install it on Saturday and have it setup. Well as far as I can set it up with beiges. It will never idle correctly till he finds a set of blues or a chip, but at least he can drive it for starters...

Hello. Really sorry to be so late but I was away from my computer and couldn't have the schematics. If you send me your email i can email them to you, I have the 1.6 16V and the 1.8 schematics to campare and see differences if you like. Pm me your email. Regarding 1.8 I can find 2 schematics, didn't look for differences but it asks prior 94 and after 94. I send have the after 94 version, is that ok?

I tried to have a look yesterday, but Autodata had another opinion, didn;t want to run... I will try to solve the problem today, after work and let you know.

I can help you with schematics, but I need the exact year of the 2 cars and the engine specs... if i recall right, autodata doesn't have the codes of the ecu's, it has schematics listed based on hp and year of car release... I will have a look for you tonight...

Thank you both of you for your answers... what I thought from the beggining was that beige injectors are a tad big for factory specs, and this is why it can;t idle as it should, it runs rich.I thought to find and install blue injectors, this is what came with from the factory. I just wanted a second opinion.Mapping is in the plans for the future, but first he wants to run it under oem specs... worst case scenario is to take off mine, I run mine on blues, and have a test fit to my friends just to test... but it is too much for a job just to check... what is funny is that on the cosmetic side, it is very good for everyday car... it is not for shows... he payed a lot of money, and he doesn;t drive it since it consumes way too much and doesn't run properly... here it is as it is now... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/Georgio59/CFH%20meeting%20%2028-4-2013/100_2660_zpsf14147bc.jpg

Oh God... I'm idiot... lol.Sorry Stu, you are right... it is on OFAC, no chip, runs on factory specs...

Hello people. Story so far... a friend of mine owns an Escort mk4. At some point, and after seeing my conversion, he wanted to do the same transplant to his car. After some search, he found a reputable garage...500 miles away from where we live, and drove the car to them to do the transplant. They did a full refurbish of the engine prior to install it to the car, new shells, springs, gaskets, etc etc. Problem was that the garage that did the transplant, had no electrician... so they bodged the loom, connected the fuel pump to run continyously, had A LOT of corroded wires, "forgot" to supply the CO pot, running the engine with wrong wirring on the TPS, and some other nice things that I can write for days... it also "runs" on stock boost, with beige injectors, and has a Garrett T3 turbo. When he took it back after a fight with the garage, since they had it for 3 months almost and never finished it, he said that enough with that joke, I want my car back. Of course as you realise, they finished it in the fastest way they could,so he can have it, and now the car consumes petrol like it is a Volvo tractor, idles like f@@ck, stumbles at accelerating, some times when boost hits boost limit etc etc... When he took it back, I had a look and managed to fix most of the problems, I wirred a CO pot correctly, fixed the TPS wirring, installed a fuel pump relay to run the fuel pump from the ECU,unwrapped the loom to check for other faults etc etc. Car runs much more better now, boosts fine, he ordered a wideband to set it up, but my problem is that if it idles for some time it starts to hunt a bit. It is not missfiring, it sounds like it is going to turn off momentarily, but it comes back again. After 2-3 minutes it does it again and works fine too. I am thinking that perhaps the injectors are a bit bigger than what is needed and floods the engine at idle. I set the CO pot about where my setting is, I set up mine with a wideband, and did the same setting at my friends pot. It is a rough setting, when I made it a bit leaner it idled much much better but I didn't want to lean it more to avoid melting anything. I told him not to drive it till his wideband arrive and install it so we can set it up correctly, but it seems we are in the correct route. Is there any chance that the injectors could cause erratic idle, am I correct on thinking that way?

Reboot is something else. When HDD's spin down and has to spin up again, then problems arrise. When you reboot, in fact you don't power off HDD's.When you turn off a server is another case, and 95% of the breakdowns occur when the server powers on again. You may have a server running 24/7 flawlessly, and when you power off it, there is serious chance to not boot up... although servers work on hw raid, there are some times that can't boot... admitting that something went wrong is rather difficult, I agree with you...

Mk5's. Mk3's and mk4's,(I agree to the term facelift, as also with the mk5 and mk5b),were all 8 valvers.

Well, this one has not a direct answer... I LOVE mk2's,although never had one. I also loved mk3's, I had an xr3 in black for some years and still have a soft spot for them... I also prefer mk5b from mk6, mk6's are too "curvy" for me, I prefer the more old school look of the 5b. Perhaps with a bit different front grille. I would like to have a cosworth escort sometime in the future, although they are rare nowadays in Greece, you can't find a genuine cossie anymore, most are moded 3 doored ones...