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ibanezjem

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About ibanezjem

  • Birthday 01/20/1973

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  • Drives
    Escort Si 1.8 Owned from new.

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    ibanezjem@hotmail.co.uk
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stafford

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  1. Oh Dear a big no no fella ,you could have shorted it out or anything suggest you check your wiring fully and remove the lighter itself and check the holding lugs,never bodge electrical wiring as your playing with your life as well as others Sorry, maybe not as clear as it was meant to be. Wasn't suggesting messing with the socket. Central nipple on the plug of device should be 12v feed. Of the remaining surrounding lugs on the plug further back, in my experience are usually the 0v return, but on several occasions I have found only one of them wired up. On a number of phone chargers and other power adaptors I've had trouble with connections and modified in this way. F29 is a 15Amp fuse and I wouldn't expect it to blow in normal operation. If it is replaced and goes with nothing plugged in, then there may be something more serious wrong. If it only goes when a device is plugged into the socket, then there maybe something wrong with the device.
  2. Just been looking at owners handbook and Haynes manual. F29 feeds cigarette lighter, radio, clock and interior lights. If one of those is working, then it's probably not the fuse. I've had trouble with my phone charger in the past. Two (or four) earth prongs on the plug, but only one actually connected. Had to carefully position plug in cigarette socket, but got fed up and wired up other prongs. Hope that's a little more help than my previous posts.
  3. It must be a typo, easily happens. You obviously meant "kitty litter" Sorry, couldn't resist! any chance you might the next time? I'll try. I was going to suggest it might be trouble with the cat, but thought better of it!
  4. It must be a typo, easily happens. You obviously meant "kitty litter" Sorry, couldn't resist!
  5. I'm not far the other side of Stone. Might be interested.
  6. I had a similar problem. No feed to fuse. I ended up soldering a wire from the feed side of the heater fuse to possibly the live side of the fuse next to it as a temporary measure. Then got Ford to change the fusebox as it was still under warranty. Killalot also had the same problem a couple of months ago. Took the fusebox out and stripped it down, not for the feint hearted, but it was alright because it wasn't mine. Found a dry solder joint inside. Cleaned up and blob of solder. Fine again now.
  7. I used the existing screw holes. The top one I had to cut a little nick in so the pcb of the screen just slots in, and then made an adapter plate from stripboard to pick up the lower holes of the screen and the original clock. Used a couple of washers as spacers. Cut away lots of the original clock front and then added two screws to stop the buttons from falling out. I thought it worked quite well with the rest of the dash being blue too. Besides, it was the only screen of the right size I could find at the time Will look at site suggested by Stu later though. I haven't tried it with temp sensors yet. Might have a look at that today. As for cost, very roughly, the electronics alone would be about £50 for the basic clock function and that's before you massacre an old clock front.
  8. Rough as fudge code, just for clock. Good luck! Should be viewable with notepad, or you could download MPLAB Suite from Microchip site mentioned earlier. A few comments in there, but not many.
  9. I did. Had a quiet morning at work and made full use of my time inbetween the odd breakdown. (Maintenance Electrician) Code available on request, if you can make any sense of it!
  10. The screen is from RS Components Display,LCD,graphic,monochrome,module,STN,backlit,blue,negat ive,128x64,64128A-BC-BC Part No 532-7007 £22.43 + Vat + Postage. RS Website Microcontroller to drive it is Microchip PIC16F874A also available from RS, but needs programming. Microchip
  11. Funny you should have trouble. I had difficulty with mine earlier. Normally comes off a lot easier, but I had to really fight it this afternoon. Ended up levering the beggar off with a small screwdriver. Why not try a bit of rag around the business end of the pliers?
  12. Finally fitted the screen for my clock and car info thingy. So far only programmed for simple clock, but future ideas include:- Stopwatch Lamp failure indication Specific door open indication Reverse parking sensor graphics Data from engine management And other stuff that might be useful to know. Suggestions welcome http://uk.geocities.com/stephen.unwin@btopenworld.com/clock4.jpg Mocked up screens http://uk.geocities.com/stephen.unwin@btopenworld.com/clock1.jpg http://uk.geocities.com/stephen.unwin@btopenworld.com/clock3.jpg Gory details http://uk.geocities.com/stephen.unwin@btopenworld.com/clock7.jpg http://uk.geocities.com/stephen.unwin@btopenworld.com/clock5.jpg http://uk.geocities.com/stephen.unwin@btopenworld.com/clock6.jpg
  13. Quote from a previous post of mine. It looks like a 4 band value resistor but it is difficult to tell from the picture if they are red or brown bands. The first three denote the numbers, and the fourth the multiplier. The fifth is the tolerance and not important in this application. Brown =1 Black =0 Black =0 Brown *10 Which would give a value of 1k ohm It is difficult to guess what size you would want to get the right brightness. It would be a case of trial and error and personal preference.
  14. I've had a similar problem with mine and two other escorts. I found one of the pins in the connector had slightly corroded and burnt away. First I used a tiny screwdriver to carefully prise the remaining bits of prong to make a better contact on the switch pin. This worked and proved it was just that and nothing else. Then stripped a small bit of wire and put into the connector to ensure a much better contact. Been working fine for a few years since.
  15. You could always make your own. Previous thread:- Switches
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