onehotminute_191

normally highly pressurised cooling system is a head gasket fail between the cylinders and cooling system. if the head gasket still looks intact get the deck and the underside of the head checked to make sure they are flat. would probably cost you about £40-50 for a skim to clean. you can have a check yourself with a straight edge if you know that its straight that is. get a picture up of the condition when its stripped.

Sadly this. Never in a month of Sundays will you see £5k. I can't tell how you intend to sell it from your blurb. Is it off the road and in need of a chunk of welding, or is it being sold all patched up, rebushed and with a years ticket? so far no body work has been done. Needs a few bits of rust looking at including the one ive mentioned. Possibly also a wing. the wing is fine, its just not been put on straight. I have noticed it and that means it annoys me. Unfortunately I see these things and give myself more work. But i end up being a bit of a perfectionist so its not a bad thing. I doubt I could get 5k as well. It wasnt a serious comment but if I was offered it i wouldnt turn it down. Is anyone a member on that rs2000 forum? Im not. Would be good to find out how many are left. going to have a look now. And I was really putting it up for sale as such. Just that I think i'm going to struggle to complete it in any decent time. And the lack of space. so if there was interest I would sell it. Otherwise Ill keep it and sort it out.

On the cleaning front, it may be worth noting that especially if your working on a cast iron block that sort of rust can appear in minutes some keep oil, or wd40 or something on hand to protect it straight away otherwise you may have to do the whole thing again. You definately don't want that building up in the bores or similar areas.

i wonder if that guy saw this program and reconsidered the valuation

I like to think this is a future classic but how far in the future will that be?? Im still looking at probably £2k to get all the body done. not that it really needs that much but Im talking a full strip, everything done and a proper respray. In fact i could probably spend £2k just on the respray. Im not sure this is worthwhile at the minute though. Its a difficult one really because its just a waiting game.

would you like to buy a van with the engine almost fitted but actually just sitting on the floor in front of it??

from my own experience all the ODB2 computers (hand held at least) only power up when plugged in. And as the specification became a standard, the pin out shouldnt change for any reason. It doesnt look like theres a switch 12v feed so I would say that 16 is probably what your after. I wouldnt have thought that having it plugged in but not powered by pin 16 would do anything detrimental for the computer so it should be fine. So is the wifi powered via the ODB computer. And is that tucked away so that you just get read outs to the phone? And if so im guessing you can use your phone to go through the menus and options etc? If so, that pretty cool.

looks like pin 16 in +12v http://pinoutsguide.com/CarElectronics/car_obd2_pinout.shtml googling ODB2 pinouts. Loads of info about it you could also test at the cars port to confirm that without ripping anything to pieces. A crocodile clip on your meter and a strand of wire should do.

ok. £5000 should cover everything including my time and effort. Did I mention I painted the calipers red On a more serious note though. I would very much like £5000 but I cant really tell for sure if I can get that. I have seen these without work being done but are running (although so was this) for around £2500 but I'm not sure how many people are willing to pay that. Like I say, ideally id like to make as much of my money back as possible, especially as I feel like I got half way through the project and have only considered giving it up due to a lack of space. I should really burn my Dads van to push him to get rid of it. Im sure people are now going to call me mad for asking £5000. Its only a semi serious comment. Hence I wouldnt mind some more opinions as the the current value of these. Obviously its worth however much your willing to pay for it. So if £5000 sound good to you let me know!!!

Due to my not reading the for sale stuff properly my post has been closed. So here is the not actually for sale but maybe if its worth it thread! Hello forum. Long time no see. Bought a few years back for £2000. Worked well until I discovered it was low on oil. I decided to strip the engine down and give it a full going over. Here is the list that needed fixing!!! New set of OEM pistons. (+0.25 I think) quite hard to find these Crank grind and +0.25 big end bearings New small end bearings with the fitting of the new pistons Bores worked for the new sized pistons and squared up Deck skimmed to clean New MLS head gasket Head skimmed to clean Head rebuilt with new valve guides and seals. This was done by the guy used by Grove Garage in Romford New oil pump (this was well and truly fucked) New water pump All new seals and gaskets (all of them) New timing kit New clutch Full balance of the bottom end and all components Drive shafts rebuilt with new kits. No wear and tear on these. Gearbox stripped and inspected by quaiffe and internally cleaned. Rebuilt with a new synchro on first and all new bearings. Refilled will automatic transmission fluid afterwards. They also stripped and inspected the transfer box but this needed no work. New radiator and heater matrix Probably other engine stuff here too that I haven't remembered. I done the mondeo mk3/focus ST upgrade on the front brake. These sit behind 16" wheels. The mondeo version of the original escort ones. I had good ridge braided lines on all corners. They never made the rear ones so I sent them my old set for them to make patterns and got them half price. Score. I think I put a new handbrake cable on too. New rear discs and pads. The handbrake uses shoes inside the rear discs. I don't think these needed replacing. Front hubs had new wheel bearings installed. Can't remember if I did the rears but guess i wouldve after doing everything else! I can't remember what else I did. I drove it on a few short journey to check everything was good and it was a lot smoother. Obviously a working engine helps. Took it for the MOT and they poked a hole in the chassis rail in the middle of the rear sub frame so not MOT! It was about the size of two fingers. Everything around it seemed OK though. Found another small hole in the corner underneath in front of the rear wheel arch. General spots of rust here and there. After this I planned to strip it out completely and do the whole bodywork thing like its just done on the engine. Started renting a unit with my dad and he put a big Fcuk off van in there that hasn't moved in two year. Cheers! So the cars been undercover since. Basically I plan on getting a house in the next few months and it probably won't be a good idea to start on this anytime soon. So I'm wondering what sort of interest this would get. For a cheap and cheerful MOT pass you could weld some plate over the hole but this wasn't an option for me. So its waiting for the full works. After that it'll need some new bushes and tracking. That's pretty much it. In total I think the engine and gearbox work added up to around £2500. I have kept all the receipts too. It also has a lot of old history but to be honest I'm not sure what use this is as the engine was so far gone I'm surprised it started. Fortunately it was fixable. As another selling point I believe auralis blue is the rarest colour of the 4x4's and the last I heard someone listed the registered ones and there was less than 10 but I can't guarantee that person wasn't just being lazy! Would be nice if someone could find this out though. also I might as well tell you the usual 'only 500 of these were ever made' but thats probably speculation and could be more or less but not by too much I would've thought. Ultimately I would love to make all my money back but I don't really know. Personally I haven't found another one that didn't need the bodywork doing. And by that I mean an average car. Not a 'cared for' car. You, that ones where people actually care and not leave the same oil in for 50,000miles. Not that I'm bitter or anything So anyway. I'd like to hear your opinions as long as its not gutttted!!!!!!! Haha http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k493/steven_191/Screenshot_2012-09-30-18-56-27-1.png Also forgot to mention that the bottom end and balancing work was done by Gosneys in Romford.

The breather crank case and head around back into the inlet so oily air goes back into the engine. Over time you can get oily residues in the inlet. Not sure if its the same on all engines but some have filters before the air box and sometimes a pressure dependant filter. Imagine a loose filter, positive pressure allows the flow of air and the filter moves to open the breather port, negative pressure sucks the filter down as to not loose crankcase pressure. People also put a filter straight on the breather pipe and blank off the air box port. Technically not legal but gives cleaner air to the engine. There's two ways to be sure your head gasket has failed. First do a pressure test to see what it shows up. Then strip and inspect it. Stripping it may rip the gasket apart though.

Hello forum. Long time no see. Bought a few years back for £2000. Worked well until I discovered it was low on oil. I decided to strip the engine down and give it a full going over. Here is the list that needed fixing!!! New set of OEM pistons. (+0.25 I think) quite hard to find these Crank grind and +0.25 big end bearings New small end bearings with the fitting of the new pistons Bores worked for the new sized pistons and squared up Deck skimmed to clean New MLS head gasket Head skimmed to clean Head rebuilt with new valve guides and seals. This was done by the guy used by Grove Garage in Romford New oil pump (this was well and truly fucked) New water pump All new seals and gaskets (all of them) New clutch Full balance of the bottom end and all components Drive shafts rebuilt with new kits. No wear and tear on these. Gearbox stripped and inspected by quaiffe and internally cleaned. Rebuilt with a new synchro on first and all new bearings. Refilled will automatic transmission fluid afterwards. They also stripped and inspected the transfer box but this needed no work. New radiator and heater matrix Probably other engine stuff here too that I haven't remembered. I done the mondeo mk3/focus ST upgrade on the front brake. These sit behind 16" wheels. The mondeo version of the original escort ones. I had good ridge braided lines on all corners. They never made the rear ones so I sent them my old set for them to make patterns and got them half price. Score. I think I put a new handbrake cable on too. New rear discs and pads. The handbrake uses shoes inside the rear discs. I don't think these needed replacing. Front hubs had new wheel bearings installed. Can't remember if I did the rears but guess i wouldve after doing everything else! I can't remember what else I did. I drove it on a few short journey to check everything was good and it was a lot smoother. Obviously a working engine helps. Took it for the MOT and they poked a hole in the chassis rail in the middle of the rear sub frame so not MOT! It was about the size of two fingers. Everything around it seemed OK though. Found another small hole in the corner underneath in front of the rear wheel arch. General spots of rust here and there. After this I planned to strip it out completely and do the whole bodywork thing like its just done on the engine. Started renting a unit with my dad and he put a big Fcuk off van in there that hasn't moved in two year. Cheers! So the cars been undercover since. Basically I plan on getting a house in the next few months and it probably won't be a good idea to start on this anytime soon. So I'm wondering what sort of interest this would get. For a cheap and cheerful MOT pass you could weld some plate over the hole but this wasn't an option for me. So its waiting for the full works. After that it'll need some new bushes and tracking. That's pretty much it. In total I think the engine and gearbox work added up to around £2500. I have kept all the receipts too. It also has a lot of old history but to be honest I'm not sure what use this is as the engine was so far gone I'm surprised it started. Fortunately it was fixable. As another selling point I believe auralis blue is the rarest colour of the 4x4's and the last I heard someone listed the registered ones and there was less than 10 but I can't guarantee that person wasn't just being lazy! Would be nice if someone could find this out though. also I might as well tell you the usual 'only 500 of these were ever made' but thats probably speculation and could be more or less but not by too much I would've thought. Ultimately I would love to make all my money back but I don't really know. Personally I haven't found another one that didn't need the bodywork doing. And by that I mean an average car. Not a 'cared for' car. You, that ones where people actually care and not leave the same oil in for 50,000miles. Not that I'm bitter or anything So anyway. I'd like to hear your opinions as long as its not gutttted!!!!!!! Haha http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k493/steven_191/Screenshot_2012-09-30-18-56-27-1.png

For sale on ebay. Please see the listing but feel free to message my on here if you want me make an offer. cheers http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...IT#ht_802wt_932 http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/26819.jpg

It's actually a motorbike engine. 625cc single 4 valve 4stroke. Is the concept of tuning a single the same as a 4 cylinder? I'm doing a bike project and may need a bit more power. From 54hp up to possibly 65-70hp but no more than that.

how much does a job like that normally cost??