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gti wont turn over or bump start


bullsrs
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any ideas whats wrong, i only have 1non ford chipped key so cant try another, what is happening is that i get ign lights but when i turn to start the led on the clock flashes fast but the engine wont turn over and i cant hear the fuel pump prime itself, i havent counted the flashes yet, tow starting doesn`t do owt either i have checked the door alarm activators incase these were linked to the immob and were faulty but they are spot on,i was wondering if there is a common joint on the fusebox which dries out that i could check as the car is in my garage with not much room either side to lie under the dash checking everything,dont wanna shell out for another key or ecu just yet as i`ve read that they are not always the problem,cheers for any help,roy
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KEV, battery spot on,car wouldn`t tow start either and has a fairly new starter. DEDMED will give what you said a try, had a look earlier today and found that when i switch the ignition to pos2 the immob led flashes rapidly until i switch back to pos1 then flashin returns to normal, also when i switch to pos2 there is a click coming from what looks like an actuator next to the heater blower housing under the scuttle panel, its linked to a mechanism on the heater motor box via a metal strip which i think is something to do with the aircon,if anyone can check if their car does the same and let me know i`d appreciate it,probably nowt to do with the non starting but at least i`d know,cheers for the replies folks
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Mine did exactly the same thing try disconnecting the battery. Turning the ignition on to position 2 then reconnect the battery with the ignition still on position 2 and then try starting it. That did the trick with mine

didn`t work :vangry:

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Maybe another ecu and keys ? :unsure:

at worst yeah, but no-one i know has an escort that i can try my bits on,i took the fuse box out as i wanted to inspect it either way and a few of the joints look crinkly, but not what i`d call dry so have got a mate at work to take it and resolder them as he fixes electricals in his spare time, i work for quickco parts dept so will get in touch with one of the customers we deal with who do replacement chip keys and see if he has any ideas, or can do a check for me i`ll post up the solution and some pics of the car as soon as i figure it out and can get it out the garage,happy days :rolleyes:

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you said its a gti a,d you got a non chipped key/non ford key? aftermarket?, thats your problem , no chip no starting, can get a garage with a decent diagnostics machine to program your key to the car,.

 

 

or rewire your ecu plug to take a non pats ecu,.

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you said its a gti a,d you got a non chipped key/non ford key? aftermarket?, thats your problem , no chip no starting, can get a garage with a decent diagnostics machine to program your key to the car,.

 

 

or rewire your ecu plug to take a non pats ecu,.

Rodney,The car came with the cheap key and was ok, it is chipped just a mickey mouse make(jma), can get a new ford key through work easily enough, and the bloke i gave the fusebox to, to re-solder had to go and sort his daughters tv last night so cant do my fbox til tonight

 

Kev will do what you said when i get the f/box back in

CHEERS LADS :cheers:

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got the fuse box back, and my interior light now works, car still not starting.

 

Kev done what you said bout leaving the ignition on and after the initial mad flashing i get 1 flash followed by 3 flashes, do you know where i can find the info on what the flashes mean as all i can find is details on 11 flashes upwards,cheers,roy

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got the fuse box back, and my interior light now works, car still not starting.

 

Kev done what you said bout leaving the ignition on and after the initial mad flashing i get 1 flash followed by 3 flashes, do you know where i can find the info on what the flashes mean as all i can find is details on 11 flashes upwards,cheers,roy

Thats saying key code not recieved, try different key, go to main dealer ,if that helps :(

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cheers,where did you get the info on the flashes from wouldn`t mind making a note of them for future reference, as for getting another key, does it need to be set for my individual car, or just the ecu(slug) if this is the case i can get one from quickco (manchester,ford parts dealer) at cost +10% as I work for quickco (sunderland) but we only cater for renault, citroen, nissan, fiat, jag,mg and land rover
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cheers,where did you get the info on the flashes from wouldn`t mind making a note of them for future reference, as for getting another key, does it need to be set for my individual car, or just the ecu(slug) if this is the case i can get one from quickco (manchester,ford parts dealer) at cost +10% as I work for quickco (sunderland) but we only cater for renault, citroen, nissan, fiat, jag,mg and land rover

 

http://www.escortevolution.co.uk/forums/in...p;#entry1080513

 

 

Some info:

 

The chipped keys have a transonder in them that holds a unique serial number (ID).

The transceiver ring is just a dumb radio receiver - it doesn't hold any codes.

When you programme a key to work with your car you are registering the unique key ID with the ECU - or with the PATS module if you have external PATS.

Whe you get a key copied at a locksmith they clone the key number from the old key to the copy - the original key still needs to have been registered with the ECU or PATS module for it to work.

If you have lost or damaged your one working key then you either need to get an auto locksmith to supply new keys and reprogramme the ECU/PATS module, or buy another ECU/PATS module with matching keys - preferably the red one.

You can't bypass late PATS systems with a jumper wire.

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cheers for that steve,one of our customers at work does the chipped keys,was gonna ring him today to get him out but being a plum i forgot to get his number from our customer details :rolleyes:

 

I also saw that thread before but thought it was 11&12 flashes not 1 then 1, 1 then 2 and so on,oops

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