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removing gear box


16Vrhys
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just a quick question to you that have removed the gear box before

 

whats the best way to do this , ie, is wiring / piped needed to be uncliped or can you just unbolt the engine and box and move over and have enough room to remove the box , or does the whole engine have to be dropped ?

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so the engine mounts and loom etc remains untouched and there is enough room to unbolt and remove the box with out touching the engine you say ? i understand about the Ball joints lower gear box cradle etc as ive done it all before playing with a feista lol

 

so a clutch change isnt to hard , just time consuming ? :cheers: just unbolt and refit jobbie?

Edited by 16Vrhys
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i done my sons myself, used a trolley jack wooden blocks then i ended up lying under the g/box with it on my chest and got it located on the splines but it can be a pai in the arse to do,so if inexperianced your best to get an assistant mate, save you losing the plot and damaging the clutch pressure plate or the release bearing. take your time with it and you should be fine. youll need a clutch aligment tool to centre your clutch plate and get new bolts for the clutch press plate from ford and new bottom ball joint clamp bolts, i got them from ford at trade price for £7.50 all in.

you will need a few extension bars and a knuckle joint for your socket set and a 15mm socket in the set to make the job easier, make sure you have a few cable ties to put your inner cv gaitor back on securely. hope this helps and as said pm me if your stuck.

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you dont really need to change them but it is best to fit new ones for the minimal cost involved compared to the work needed to remove the g/box, id say a tenner max at ford,

when you go to your ford dealer ask them if they will do trade for you, tell them you work for a local garage to yourself or similair, might work. i tell them its through the taxi company i work for. i get 40% discount.

i would definatly do the bottom pinch bolts if yours have not been replaced recenttly.

remember to disconnect the battery and when you unbolt the starter motor you dont need to disconnect the wiring, just push the starter back a few inches once bolts are out.

remove the front g/box mount from the box, four 13mm head bolts into the g/box, undo the two 15mm head bolts from the front cross member and the two bell housing bolts at front this removes the mount completely to give more room for box removal

 

undo the 18mm head bolt on rear g/box mount then jack up box about 1 1/2 inches this allows the mount to clear the stud then gently pull the box forward and let the jack down a bit then undo the three 15mm head bolts that hold the rear mount bracket onto your gearbox, this will allow you room to lower the box and engine down on the passenger side of engine bay, to then allow the rest of the bell housing bolts to be removed and the box should slip off and down and be removed from under the car.

remember to remove the inner cv boot to allow the d/shafts to be popped out and pushed to the side,leave the inner cv cups in box to stop oil leaking out.

hope you make sense of this,print it out and when under your car it will all make sense.

can take pics of any bits you may get stuck on tomorrow night if need be.

also when changing the thrust bearing on your box take out the 10mm head bolt from the external alloy arm the cable goes into remove the arm and this will allow the release bearing to be pulled foward to alow removal, refitting is reverse of removal,the arm only goes on one way on splines to allow the bot to pass through the clamping hole, best mark it first before removal to ease refitting .

and when refitting the clutch make sure its the right way round (friction plate part)

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yeah most make sense apart from the mounts , as you say will make alot more sense while doing it , by clutch the right way round you mean the flywheel facing side is facing the flywheel am i correct? as for inner CV joints , how do you leave the inner cups in the gear box , from previous experience on cars the whole lot just pops out of the gear box , is there a clip or something that you have to seperate to leave the inner cups in ?

 

some great advise , thank you :)

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on the iner cv boot just cut the clip nearest the gearbox and when you pull the rest of the drive shaft away from the box, the rubber boot slides over the cup and this allows the inner cv to seperate leaving the inner cv cup in the gearbox. then on refitting line up the inner cv to the cup and push it in, slip cv boot back over inner cup and fit a large cable tie to secure them.

and yes should say flywheel side on one side of friction plate that goes to the flywhhel, but best to note the way the old one was locate as some new clutches dont tell you flywheel side.

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ok ill make sure i check the clutch over and make sure its the right way , still not 100% about the CVS though as i always thought they came straight out the gear box , i cant see how just a CV boot clip holding a gaitor on , undoing that will make the CV cups remain ? confused.com :( lol , to my understanding i thought there would be like a circlip holding the driveshaft to gear box end cups
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