MikeM Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 Could some please recommend me a polish please? I've gone through the Sonus SFX stages (1, 2, 3) and has removed a few swirls but loads still remain. Looked on cleanyourcar.co.uk and there is loads of polishes to chose from! What polishes etc do people use to remove swirls? And what pad? I have a DAS-6 machine and sonus pads at the moment. I will try and get a picture of the swirls later once i get my car back so people can see what they're like and hopefully tell me the best product to use. Also i want to clean the wheels arches to get them looking cleaner again, whats the best product to use? Any tips for doing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trig Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 We dont have any pro's on here. I use Menzerna polishes, I get on really well with them, and mostly 3M pads, but I do have a couple of Sonus and a couple of Menzerna pads. Which combinations to use depends on how much correction you are trying to get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeM Posted May 15, 2010 Author Share Posted May 15, 2010 Ok, the more experienced detailers? Yeah looked at the menzerna polishes and meguiars. Just so many to try and chose from! Would the 3M pads fit my machine? Or would i need a different backing plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RO55 Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 (edited) I use Autoglym resin polish and then HD mate ... Edited May 15, 2010 by RO55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trig Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 That stuff won't cut it Ross, SRP is a filler not a cutter. Mike a lot is down to your technique, are you working your polish for long enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RO55 Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 That stuff won't cut it Ross, SRP is a filler not a cutter. Mike a lot is down to your technique, are you working your polish for long enough? Aye ... Am having a few problems latley ... I didnt see the Cutting part ... For what its worth worr youngin uses the G-summit ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeM Posted May 15, 2010 Author Share Posted May 15, 2010 That stuff won't cut it Ross, SRP is a filler not a cutter. Mike a lot is down to your technique, are you working your polish for long enough? I start of slow covering the area then i build up speed unit it has almost gone? Then slow down then buff the remains off? Thats what i was told when researching before buying it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tez162003 Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 That stuff won't cut it Ross, SRP is a filler not a cutter. Mike a lot is down to your technique, are you working your polish for long enough? I start of slow covering the area then i build up speed unit it has almost gone? Then slow down then buff the remains off? Thats what i was told when researching before buying it? almost gone? you need to work polish to break it down, i find by the time i finish theres sod all left to see. you need to be going long enough to generate the right heat for the polish to work at, but generating the heat is where the danger factor comes in, well with a rotary it does. i on an average car start off at around 800 rpm to spread, move up to 2500rpm (i think, mines just numbers for speed not rpm's) work the polish speed up or down accordingly, then once the correction is complete, drop back to 800 for refining, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeM Posted May 15, 2010 Author Share Posted May 15, 2010 That stuff won't cut it Ross, SRP is a filler not a cutter. Mike a lot is down to your technique, are you working your polish for long enough? I start of slow covering the area then i build up speed unit it has almost gone? Then slow down then buff the remains off? Thats what i was told when researching before buying it? almost gone? you need to work polish to break it down, i find by the time i finish theres sod all left to see. you need to be going long enough to generate the right heat for the polish to work at, but generating the heat is where the danger factor comes in, well with a rotary it does. i on an average car start off at around 800 rpm to spread, move up to 2500rpm (i think, mines just numbers for speed not rpm's) work the polish speed up or down accordingly, then once the correction is complete, drop back to 800 for refining, Maybe thats where i'm going wrong then? Yeah mine has numbers. I was told to work it until its almost gone? Maybe i will try again with what i have? Is there an easier polish to work with? Or are sonus ones a good one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonez Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 www.detailingworld.co.uk - all your answers by the real pros menz stuff is great stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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