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Lack of power


mclovin9091

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yes, i believe so as i assume that the wire is broken somewhere.

have you got a mutimeter if so than would it not be better to test the the wire as got ground then to start adding wire to it m8

 

 

all well and good but if this is not an earth then he wont get e reading and or if it is brocken then again he wont get a reading.

1 get a amanual and find out wat each wire does and what it should be reading then test to see if u are getting the right readings

 

2 if this fails u take the readins from youre old car

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Thinking some more, how would this actually affect the performance in such a drastic way? I say this because if you have an idle problem a possible solution is to remove the MAF connector which may in fact improve performance however it doesn't affect mine at all now.
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Thinking some more, how would this actually affect the performance in such a drastic way? I say this because if you have an idle problem a possible solution is to remove the MAF connector which may in fact improve performance however it doesn't affect mine at all now.

if the maf aint giveing out the right reading then it could mess with the fuel ratio ie if the ecu thinks that there aint surfishent air getting to the pistons than it will reduce the fuel to match [reduceing performance]. if it thinks that it geting to much air it will increase the the fuel . but lets say that the maf is telling the ecu that less air is getting through but in actual fact that its the right amount then the ecu will decress the amount of fuel which will lead to the engine leaning out [less power]

 

i think this makes sense

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yes what you say makes sense and to add (if im right) the MPG would decrease due to me driving higher up the rev range for longer times even although there was less fuel being fed into the cylinders. Edited by mclovin9091
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The ones i changed were brownish (normal) but couldn't/can't rely on them as a good indicator being that i don't know how long the car has had this problem. (i am waiting on gettting the log book to contact the previous owner) There was also some oil deposits due to a badly fitted rocker gasket (now sorted)

 

Again i appreciate your help even although the easiest course of action would probably be to swap the engines, god i hope not!

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The ones i changed were brownish (normal) but couldn't/can't rely on them as a good indicator being that i don't know how long the car has had this problem. (i am waiting on gettting the log book to contact the previous owner) There was also some oil deposits due to a badly fitted rocker gasket (now sorted)

 

Again i appreciate your help even although the easiest course of action would probably be to swap the engines, god i hope not!

i still think you should look at the lambda sensor m8 being that you have had two maf sensors on the car with the same results lambda sensors are part of the control systems that have afect on fuleing . the lambda samples the gas to tell if there is to much fule left after the burn or to much oxygen left in the gas .if there is to much oxygen the the ex gas than it will enrich the fule ie: pump more fule in if there not enough than it will pump less in if the lambda is gooing than it could go either way so i wood go for a lambda sensor before going in to engine changes

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Ok went to a scrappy and swapped the Lambda sensor, no change. i have disconnected the battery and waited about an hour before starting it again. So i've either picked up a dodgy sensor or the problem lies else where. FFS :(

 

Will try tomorrow with the one off my car and see what happens. With regards to the fault codes, when the problem is fixed will the code go away or would the faults need to be cleared again? Also if the code were still there but the problem was fixed would the car respond regardless of the fault showing?

 

As for the Multimeter, gonna have to read up on how to use them 1st.

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Dare i say it? I think its nearly fixed Power throught 1st,2nd and 3rd. 0-60 down to 17 seconds. Nearly there! Gave the inlet a spray with carb cleaner, changed the lambda sensor again and fuel pressure regulator.

 

Now to sort the jumping rev counter (new fault today)

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Dare i say it? I think its nearly fixed Power throught 1st,2nd and 3rd. 0-60 down to 17 seconds. Nearly there! Gave the inlet a spray with carb cleaner, changed the lambda sensor again and fuel pressure regulator.

 

Now to sort the jumping rev counter (new fault today)

have disconnected the battery to reset the codes

are you in Deptford if so you are not fare from me i have a code reader so i can check the codes for you m8

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yeah left the battery off for a couple of hours. No need to check the codes just yet. Cheers

Just being haveing a bit of a read. Have you checked the air temperature sensor .

A faulty air temperature sensor that is reading colder than normal will typically cause a rich fuel condition. This wastes fuel and also increases emissions.

A faulty air temperature sensor that is reading warmer than normal will typically cause in a lean fuel condition. This increases the risk of detonation and lean misfire

Edited by mrfixit
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