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alarm issues


shawdreamer

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its hard to see the diagram but am i right in saying that the -/+ output is on the loom its self

 

closer magnification so you can see more clearly

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25324.jpg

 

as you can see the Unit has entirely independant power.

 

as for the "jumpers" you'll see the three upper left wires work as that function (pos.neg unit signal).

 

the orange wire isnt used as the FCU is created to work with both negative signal alarms and positive, you simply use which ever wire suits your alarm system (yellow- in my case)

 

the live feed is connected to a permenant live fusebox feed and the earth is connected at a good earth point

 

the brown is connected to position 1 of the ignition barrel.

 

its all very simple and makes perfect sense......... until you come to the signal wiring itself, which is why its the most suspect to me.

so the red/black connectes to the red giving you a positive feed to the motors

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its hard to see the diagram but am i right in saying that the -/+ output is on the loom its self

 

closer magnification so you can see more clearly

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25324.jpg

 

as you can see the Unit has entirely independant power.

 

as for the "jumpers" you'll see the three upper left wires work as that function (pos.neg unit signal).

 

the orange wire isnt used as the FCU is created to work with both negative signal alarms and positive, you simply use which ever wire suits your alarm system (yellow- in my case)

 

the live feed is connected to a permenant live fusebox feed and the earth is connected at a good earth point

 

the brown is connected to position 1 of the ignition barrel.

 

its all very simple and makes perfect sense......... until you come to the signal wiring itself, which is why its the most suspect to me.

so the red/black connectes to the red giving you a positive feed to the motors

 

box in the top right basically says....

 

plug the black/red lead into the black plug to make the trigger wires negitive

 

or

 

plug the black/red lead into the red plug to make the trigger wires positive

 

HOWEVER!

 

the two wires running to a escorts window motor alternate with each other, so both wires switch poles and become negative or positive dependant on which way the window motor needs to wind.

 

I wired the trigger wires into mine with the FCU set to a positive trigger setup first and into the wire that becomes the positive when the window rises..... no joy.

 

try it with the negative wire and predictably the moment the FCU kicks in it pops its fuse.

 

my suspicion is this particular unit is designed to work with a constant earthed 3 wire setup and not the typical 2 wire ford setup.

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its hard to see the diagram but am i right in saying that the -/+ output is on the loom its self

 

closer magnification so you can see more clearly

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25324.jpg

 

as you can see the Unit has entirely independant power.

 

as for the "jumpers" you'll see the three upper left wires work as that function (pos.neg unit signal).

 

the orange wire isnt used as the FCU is created to work with both negative signal alarms and positive, you simply use which ever wire suits your alarm system (yellow- in my case)

 

the live feed is connected to a permenant live fusebox feed and the earth is connected at a good earth point

 

the brown is connected to position 1 of the ignition barrel.

 

its all very simple and makes perfect sense......... until you come to the signal wiring itself, which is why its the most suspect to me.

so the red/black connectes to the red giving you a positive feed to the motors

 

box in the top right basically says....

 

plug the black/red lead into the black plug to make the trigger wires negitive

 

or

 

plug the black/red lead into the red plug to make the trigger wires positive

 

HOWEVER!

 

the two wires running to a escorts window motor alternate with each other, so both wires switch poles and become negative or positive dependant on which way the window motor needs to wind.

 

I wired the trigger wires into mine with the FCU set to a positive trigger setup first and into the wire that becomes the positive when the window rises..... no joy.

 

try it with the negative wire and predictably the moment the FCU kicks in it pops its fuse.

 

my suspicion is this particular unit is designed to work with a constant earthed 3 wire setup and not the typical 2 wire ford setup.

dose your FCU have capability as stop with pressure when i did mine i had to turn it up becouse the pressure stop was kicking in and the windows didnt wind up like it did not work but once i turn it up it worked just a fault

 

its hard to see the diagram but am i right in saying that the -/+ output is on the loom its self

 

closer magnification so you can see more clearly

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25324.jpg

 

as you can see the Unit has entirely independant power.

 

as for the "jumpers" you'll see the three upper left wires work as that function (pos.neg unit signal).

 

the orange wire isnt used as the FCU is created to work with both negative signal alarms and positive, you simply use which ever wire suits your alarm system (yellow- in my case)

 

the live feed is connected to a permenant live fusebox feed and the earth is connected at a good earth point

 

the brown is connected to position 1 of the ignition barrel.

 

its all very simple and makes perfect sense......... until you come to the signal wiring itself, which is why its the most suspect to me.

so the red/black connectes to the red giving you a positive feed to the motors

 

box in the top right basically says....

 

plug the black/red lead into the black plug to make the trigger wires negitive

 

or

 

plug the black/red lead into the red plug to make the trigger wires positive

 

HOWEVER!

 

the two wires running to a escorts window motor alternate with each other, so both wires switch poles and become negative or positive dependant on which way the window motor needs to wind.

 

I wired the trigger wires into mine with the FCU set to a positive trigger setup first and into the wire that becomes the positive when the window rises..... no joy.

 

try it with the negative wire and predictably the moment the FCU kicks in it pops its fuse.

 

my suspicion is this particular unit is designed to work with a constant earthed 3 wire setup and not the typical 2 wire ford setup.

dose your FCU have capability as stop with pressure when i did mine i had to turn it up becouse the pressure stop was kicking in and the windows didnt wind up like it did not work but once i turn it up it worked just a fault also do the window work when in normal use

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its does have resistance stop (if I am reading the below rightly.....it really is a tragic translation) but no adjustment capability I could find.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25327.jpg

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its does have resistance stop (if I am reading the below rightly.....it really is a tragic translation) but no adjustment capability I could find.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25327.jpg

do the windows work as in nomal operation

 

with the FCU wired in (in the non-fuse blowing way) yes, the FCU seems to allow signal passage from the switches in normal operation just fine.

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its does have resistance stop (if I am reading the below rightly.....it really is a tragic translation) but no adjustment capability I could find.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25327.jpg

do the windows work as in nomal operation

 

with the FCU wired in (in the non-fuse blowing way) yes, the FCU seems to allow signal passage from the switches in normal operation just fine.

right so we know that the connection to the twin pole relays work. but the wires to the switch can still be the wrong way round .have you got a mutimeter if so then test the wires at the switch to see which one gos live when you activate the alarm .the one that gos live should be connected to the wire running to the motor the over to the switch

Edited by mrfixit
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its does have resistance stop (if I am reading the below rightly.....it really is a tragic translation) but no adjustment capability I could find.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25327.jpg

do the windows work as in nomal operation

 

with the FCU wired in (in the non-fuse blowing way) yes, the FCU seems to allow signal passage from the switches in normal operation just fine.

right so we know that the connection to the twin pole relays work. but the wires to the switch can still be the wrong way round .have you got a mutimeter if so then test the wires at the switch to see which one gos live when you activate the alarm .the one that gos live should be connected to the wire running to the motor the over to the switch

 

pretty sure I tested that.....tho I dont seem to recall the results, which kinda suggests they were unimportant.

 

I plan to spend some hard time diagnosing the issue when my bag of fuses shows up off eGay (yes I actually ran out of spare fuses while trying to sort it)

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its does have resistance stop (if I am reading the below rightly.....it really is a tragic translation) but no adjustment capability I could find.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25327.jpg

do the windows work as in nomal operation

 

with the FCU wired in (in the non-fuse blowing way) yes, the FCU seems to allow signal passage from the switches in normal operation just fine.

right so we know that the connection to the twin pole relays work. but the wires to the switch can still be the wrong way round .have you got a mutimeter if so then test the wires at the switch to see which one gos live when you activate the alarm .the one that gos live should be connected to the wire running to the motor the over to the switch

 

pretty sure I tested that.....tho I dont seem to recall the results, which kinda suggests they were unimportant.

 

I plan to spend some hard time diagnosing the issue when my bag of fuses shows up off eGay (yes I actually ran out of spare fuses while trying to sort it)

good luck m8. when you get your fuses give the switch a test

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thank you one and all who helped(especially Mrfixit for putting in the effort)

 

but

 

I found the solution!

 

basically all you have to do is take the instructions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

....and set fire to them.

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did you test the wires running to the switch

 

 

I already knew which was live and which was negative on window raise so all I was left with was figuring the remaining FCU wires which I did by setting up a false test circuit running a 12v LED rather than the window motors.....took dozens of combinations and setups before I final ID'd every wire and knew what went were.

 

Works a treat now, Tho unusually is only raises one window at a time, drivers right up, short pause, relay click, passenger windows go's up, not really a issue, just it appears the FCU can only handle running one 12v circuit at a time, now does what it says on the tin so Im happy.....and a little relieved. :pancake: :cheers:

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did you test the wires running to the switch

 

 

I already knew which was live and which was negative on window raise so all I was left with was figuring the remaining FCU wires which I did by setting up a false test circuit running a 12v LED rather than the window motors.....took dozens of combinations and setups before I final ID'd every wire and knew what went were.

 

Works a treat now, Tho unusually is only raises one window at a time, drivers right up, short pause, relay click, passenger windows go's up, not really a issue, just it appears the FCU can only handle running one 12v circuit at a time, now does what it says on the tin so Im happy.....and a little relieved. :pancake: :cheers:

i think thats normal m8 the windows on mine only go up one at a time i think it dos it that way as to not but a heavy drain on the system any way congrats big pat on the back

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