Stu Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 You want something with a resolution of 10mV or lower. You want to be able to measure the difference between 50mV and 150mV, for example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfixit Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 You want something with a resolution of 10mV or lower. You want to be able to measure the difference between 50mV and 150mV, for example.i got the same problem m8 maybe we can work together to solve this issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 I don't have a battery drain problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfixit Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 I don't have a battery drain problem?sorry m8 this was directed at shawdreamer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 well just on whim (and even tho I double checked the wiring and connection) I unplugged the headunit for the last 4 days. and with supprise to me the drain has lessoned greatly (from 2 days full-dead without even close to enough power to turn the engine), its now approaching the 4th day and theres still enough juice to start the car with the battery shwing a healthy voltage also.freind of a freind said he came across similiar problems with other Alpine HU's were he works (he's a auto spark or something along those lines) and added that it was often down to a internal fuse that when blown allows the unit to flow voltagw without being on. its of small consilation but Im havin it! now its only every 4 days I have to wind out the extension and battery charger instead of 2, HU-feckin-RRAY aye! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 quick update, purchased a automotive fused current tester and set about testing all the fused points on the fusebox and all I can find on the fusebox is a 0.06A current on Fuse 29 (interior lights,clock,cigerette lighter,radio) WITH IGNITION OFF now I know that a certian amount of current should be passing through that circuit as its a permenant feed to the clock and open-door lights but what I dont know is wether its supposed to be 0.06A or less? from the battery Im showing a 0.09A current which technically tells theres a draw off somewhere else aswell as the one going through Fuse 29. Stu fella, one for you, whats there normal average standing current drawn when ignition off? should it be less than 0.09A at the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 well heres a rather strange further result, while waiting for answers on the questions above I started testing individual feeds that run off the offending fuse source and found Id linked the central locking oopower feed into that same circuit (probably due to it being a permenant live 24/7 and to give it the added benefit of being additionally fused at the fusebox aswell as the aftermarket fuse I put inline) anyway, I dissconnected the aftermarket CL power source and presto the 0.09A reading dropped to 0.01...... have I found the culprit to all my drainage woes maybe? what I dont understand is that if the CL is the cause then why? these systems are designed to be permenantly live and only draw the bare minimum of current while in use.......has mine gone loopy or just fecked itself up I wonder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCCORNY11 Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 bad battery? maybe you battery is showing 12volt but not holding the amps required to start the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 bad battery? maybe you battery is showing 12volt but not holding the amps required to start the car? new battery with ample starting amps (its a 1.6-1-8 starting amp rated battery) The battery was the initial suspect and upon removing it from the car and charging it alone without output drains I found my old battery only held a voltage of 11.4v at best, changed for brand new only to discover the drain just took longer (due to the new battery being more resiliant). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCCORNY11 Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 4, All butcher bodge wiring work behind the Dash from previous owner repaired and made good 5, all electrical additions on my part are relayed for power off on Ignition off 7, Just about anything you can think off tested all wires connected to the right place? have you checked your relays? one could be fused allowing power to stay on? not just the ones you added. did you happen to install a new headunit by anychance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 (edited) all wires connected to the right place? original loom wiring returned to original factory spec with all additional non OEM wiring removed and volt checked for function, all additional wiring installed by myself has been carefully checked a verified and has limited interference with OEM loom except were applicable (alarm features)have you checked your relays? one could be fused allowing power to stay on? not just the ones you added. only one relay showed signs of damage and that one governed the function of the foglights which I removed along with the aftermarket loom so as to eliminate it being an issue did you happen to install a new headunit by anychance? course I did, those ford OEM stereos are uselss , but as with all my ice installs Im careful and exacting with the wiring and often repair previous owner bodge jobs before installing anything new (as I did with this motor) Edited September 22, 2010 by shawdreamer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCCORNY11 Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 my next try after all that would be fuse box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 my next try after all that would be fuse box did you miss the bit were I mentioned disconnecting the aftermarket CL system? once I pulled the power to that the current across the battery dropped to 0.01Amps....which I assume is nearer the mark for average Amps. on ignition off?....just need someone to varify that then so I can put this little fecker to bed once and for all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCCORNY11 Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 must have missed it! sounds about right on the amps so new cl system then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted September 30, 2010 Author Share Posted September 30, 2010 (edited) <banging head repeatedly against wall> just went out to quickly nip the local asda for muisli and milk for my sons breakfast....... and again it appears something sucked enough out the battery to make starting ann issue again. seriously, Im not being dramatic and over exagerating here when I say Im right this moment seriously considering throwing a match to it and sitting there enjoying watching the vindictive shite of a biatch car burn slowly to a small pool of molten metal and rubber. someone tell me how many amps should be getting drawn when the cars not in use atall (basically what the Ecu and the stereo memory should be drawing) <finds swan vesta's and then realizes he needs the car to go the garage to get a can of petty.....returns to banging head off wall> Edited September 30, 2010 by shawdreamer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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