still got a battery drain somewhere.

[mrfixit]

<banging head repeatedly against wall>

 

 

just went out to quickly nip the local asda for muisli and milk for my sons breakfast....... and again it appears something sucked enough out the battery to make starting ann issue again.

 

 

 

seriously, Im not being dramatic and over exagerating here when I say Im right this moment seriously considering throwing a match to it and sitting there enjoying watching the vindictive shite of a biatch car burn slowly to a small pool of molten metal and rubber.

 

someone tell me how many amps should be getting drawn when the cars not in use atall (basically what the Ecu and the stereo memory should be drawing)

 

<finds swan vesta's and then realizes he needs the car to go the garage to get a can of petty.....returns to banging head off wall>

as far as i know it should be no more the 0.02 to 0.04

 

Some vehicles can take up to 45 minutes to shut down. The reading you should get is 0.03 amps to 0.04 .If it was 0.03a then this is ok if it was 0.30a then this is too high and you will need to start pulling fuses to isolate each circuit.

[shawdreamer]

Some vehicles can take up to 45 minutes to shut down. The reading you should get is 0.03 amps to 0.04 .If it was 0.03a then this is ok if it was 0.30a then this is too high and you will need to start pulling fuses to isolate each circuit.

 

 

well that doesnt bode well.

 

Mines showing a 0.01A inline with battery, good news you'd think yer!

 

but, the drop off of starting voltage can only be one other thing now...... battery fault/failure.

 

AND THE SODDIN BATTERIES ONLY A MONTH OLD!

 

Im starting to really feel I cant win with this fecker, it eats one battery, I fix wiring, it gets a new battery, I fix more wiring issues finally seeming to solve all the shite the previous modifier had caused only to find..... its already killed another battery.

 

I suppose I cant really blame anyone else, I broke my own cardinal rule, NEVER buy a car thats already been messed about with by a rank amateur and expect it to all go well.

[mrfixit]

Some vehicles can take up to 45 minutes to shut down. The reading you should get is 0.03 amps to 0.04 .If it was 0.03a then this is ok if it was 0.30a then this is too high and you will need to start pulling fuses to isolate each circuit.

 

 

well that doesnt bode well.

 

Mines showing a 0.01A inline with battery, good news you'd think yer!

 

but, the drop off of starting voltage can only be one other thing now...... battery fault/failure.

 

AND THE SODDIN BATTERIES ONLY A MONTH OLD!

 

Im starting to really feel I cant win with this fecker, it eats one battery, I fix wiring, it gets a new battery, I fix more wiring issues finally seeming to solve all the shite the previous modifier had caused only to find..... its already killed another battery.

 

I suppose I cant really blame anyone else, I broke my own cardinal rule, NEVER buy a car thats already been messed about with by a rank amateur and expect it to all go well.

have you checked your relays you might have a sticky relay this is were i am looking at know some times my car kills it battery over two days other time is 3/4 weeks it seems to happen moor when its wet and cold but not always. i didnt have a problem all summer but as soon as the weather changed it started again.

 

i think it might be the power hold relay sometimes stays on ie sticks and by taking the battery of resets the relay so when you test you get good results untill it sticks again causing a power drain

[shawdreamer]

Some vehicles can take up to 45 minutes to shut down. The reading you should get is 0.03 amps to 0.04 .If it was 0.03a then this is ok if it was 0.30a then this is too high and you will need to start pulling fuses to isolate each circuit.

 

 

well that doesnt bode well.

 

Mines showing a 0.01A inline with battery, good news you'd think yer!

 

but, the drop off of starting voltage can only be one other thing now...... battery fault/failure.

 

AND THE SODDIN BATTERIES ONLY A MONTH OLD!

 

Im starting to really feel I cant win with this fecker, it eats one battery, I fix wiring, it gets a new battery, I fix more wiring issues finally seeming to solve all the shite the previous modifier had caused only to find..... its already killed another battery.

 

I suppose I cant really blame anyone else, I broke my own cardinal rule, NEVER buy a car thats already been messed about with by a rank amateur and expect it to all go well.

have you checked your relays you might have a sticky relay this is were i am looking at know some times my car kills it battery over two days other time is 3/4 weeks it seems to happen moor when its wet and cold but not always. i didnt have a problem all summer but as soon as the weather changed it started again.

 

i think it might be the power hold relay sometimes stays on ie sticks and by taking the battery of resets the relay so when you test you get good results untill it sticks again causing a power drain

 

 

Relay wise,

 

once fully charged (I can only hope the battery is taking a full charge still) I re-connect and run the usual battery off and running volt tests

 

then I pull the NEG and put the amp tester inline to check for relay locks, I repeat the whole process three - four times which should have shown up a relay lock if there was one.

 

I found no relay issues and no obvious relay damage (plus they all appear to click off and on when relivant.

 

What I was suprised to find was on the initial start after charging this morning the battery voltage dropped to 12.3 from 12.9 when the engine was run, that would indicate Alternator issue but....

 

1.Its a new Alty

 

2.After lifting the revs beyond 1.5k the voltage jumped to the standard 14.5v

 

The latter fact also points to the little known Battery bulb issue, whereas if the battery bulb is blown the alternator wont charge the battery during operation, but again my bulb is fully functional and stays on with IGN. position #1 and go's off after a short period once the engine is started, exactly as its supposed too.

 

If I ever meet the original modifier he's getting repeatedly chinned, no wonder his burd tipped brake fluid down the paintwork.....she was probably sick of it feckin up on her.

[mrfixit]

i think that as soon as the power is disconnected ie removing the neg lead the sticky relay resets so the reading that you get should pass with flying colours untill the relay sticks again battery dies you then remove neg lead charge battery and put it back then test but find its all ok and it all starts again dose this make sense Edited September 30, 2010 by mrfixit