eetaylog Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 Before i get cracking, will i have to replace the grease cap on the rear hub once i pop it open to replace the bearing? Mr Haines say yes, but im sure i remember doing it before without having to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 Depends on how much you mutilate it during removal and how good you are with a ball hammer to reshape before reinstallation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eetaylog Posted November 1, 2010 Author Share Posted November 1, 2010 Depends on how much you mutilate it during removal and how good you are with a ball hammer to reshape before reinstallation hmm. im going in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
16Vrhys Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 ive been told by members on here not to remove the grease gap or hub nut and instead undo some bolts at the back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etrebus Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 ive been told by members on here not to remove the grease gap or hub nut and instead undo some bolts at the back?if you are changing the bearing then you have to remove cap checking brakes etc undo blue bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 ive been told by members on here not to remove the grease gap or hub nut and instead undo some bolts at the back? That's to remove the stub axle without disturbing the bearings. The type of bearing used is tight when new and beds in after a few miles. If you dismantle the bearings when you service the brakes instead of removing the stub axle and drum assembly you can upset the bearing alignment and this can lead to bearing failure a few hundred miles later. To replace the bearings you release the handbrake completely then remove the centre cap and undo the nut. The drum and bearings then slide off of the stub axle. You don't need to touch the 4 bolts one the back to do this - in fact if you do you'll make the job harder since you won't be able to use the weight of the car to hold the axle while you loosen/tighten the bearing nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eetaylog Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 (edited) update... Ive just got round to changing the bearing...wtf is going on with the retaining nut(s) inside the hub? I took the grease cap off and prized back the teeth of the locking cage and there seem to be 3 slim nuts instead of 1 large one, never seen that before. Surely the 190lb/ft needed to torque them back up would snap them? Is this normal? Edited November 2, 2010 by eetaylog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 update... Ive just got round to changing the bearing...wtf is going on with the retaining nut(s) inside the hub? I took the grease cap off and prized back the teeth of the locking cage and there seem to be 3 slim nuts instead of 1 large one, never seen that before. Surely the 190lb/ft needed to torque them back up would snap them? Is this normal? They are not locking tabs!!!!! Bend them back and put the socket over the whole lot. You're gonna need a new nut now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eetaylog Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 update... Ive just got round to changing the bearing...wtf is going on with the retaining nut(s) inside the hub? I took the grease cap off and prized back the teeth of the locking cage and there seem to be 3 slim nuts instead of 1 large one, never seen that before. Surely the 190lb/ft needed to torque them back up would snap them? Is this normal? They are not locking tabs!!!!! Bend them back and put the socket over the whole lot. You're gonna need a new nut now. are you sure?? surely applying force to the cage will warp it? didnt think there was any way that would be the case as it looks too weak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 update... Ive just got round to changing the bearing...wtf is going on with the retaining nut(s) inside the hub? I took the grease cap off and prized back the teeth of the locking cage and there seem to be 3 slim nuts instead of 1 large one, never seen that before. Surely the 190lb/ft needed to torque them back up would snap them? Is this normal? They are not locking tabs!!!!! Bend them back and put the socket over the whole lot. You're gonna need a new nut now. are you sure?? surely applying force to the cage will warp it? didnt think there was any way that would be the case as it looks too weak. 100% mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eetaylog Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 update... Ive just got round to changing the bearing...wtf is going on with the retaining nut(s) inside the hub? I took the grease cap off and prized back the teeth of the locking cage and there seem to be 3 slim nuts instead of 1 large one, never seen that before. Surely the 190lb/ft needed to torque them back up would snap them? Is this normal? They are not locking tabs!!!!! Bend them back and put the socket over the whole lot. You're gonna need a new nut now. are you sure?? surely applying force to the cage will warp it? didnt think there was any way that would be the case as it looks too weak. 100% mate ok cheers. i just bent them back in place, all sorted now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
16Vrhys Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 any advice for doing the wheel bearing have to do mine soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eetaylog Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 any advice for doing the wheel bearing have to do mine soon make sure youve got a proper man size torque wrench, you need 192lb/ft to get the nut back on. apart from that though and assuming youre changing the rear, its just... 1) jack it up, and chock front wheels2) grease cap off3) retaining nut off 4) handbrake off and remove hub5) use punch and hammer to remove bearings6) pack the new bearings with plenty of copper grease and replace. Use old bearings to knock the new ones in so that the go in evenly.7) reverse of removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
16Vrhys Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 so fittings nothing to it really just putting them in the same way they came out ? no special ways to it etc as long as dont damage the bearings fitting it in ? one thing ive never done before thats all done most things but not bearings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etrebus Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 so fittings nothing to it really just putting them in the same way they came out ? no special ways to it etc as long as dont damage the bearings fitting it in ? one thing ive never done before thats all done most things but not bearings take your time make sure bearing seats are clean before fitting new ones free from burs and dirt any misalignment of bearing will cause early failure, tap them in gently with a small punch imagine a clock and tap 12 then 6 then 3 then 9 and keep repeating this to settle it level when it reaches the base of its seat the noise from tapping will change go gently you will prob damage punch which is better than damaging the bearing race hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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