mk2xr2 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Hi. Been having issues with starting my 1999, MK6 Escort estate TDi. Monday went to go to work in it. Only to find that when I turned the key to fire up the engine, there was nothing. Dash lights came on, and the glow plug relay was heard to go off which is when I start it. But when key was turned, there was absolutly nothing. Jumped started it first time off another car. So guessed it must be the battery especially as it is very old. Bought and fitted a new genuine motorcraft battery, only to find that after two days of use. I have the exact same problem! I am now thinking prehaps the alternator is the fault, and all I have done is use the power out of the new battery as the alternator has not put any back. Does anyone else think this is the problem. Dont really want to shell out for new alternator to find it is something else as it will work out a expensive fault finding process. Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caled Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 If that scenario were true, and it was running entirely off the battery, then when you jumped started it it would surely have died again once you removed the leads? You then replaced the battery which subsequently drained. You haven't fitted a new alarm or stereo by any chance, have you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2xr2 Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 If that scenario were true, and it was running entirely off the battery, then when you jumped started it it would surely have died again once you removed the leads? You then replaced the battery which subsequently drained. You haven't fitted a new alarm or stereo by any chance, have you? I see your point. No, the car has not been touched apart from the new battery. And after jumping the car, the leads were removed after a few minutes, the car did not instantly stall. Problem has only occured since the start of the very cold spell. The few days before the car finally did not start is was noticably slower to start on the turn of the key. I popped into my local Ford dealer today to check on a price and if they had a alternator in stock. But even with my log book they could not tell me what alternator I would have on my TDi engine. It is either a 3 or 4 bolt alternator. So I need to get under the car to check, and while I am under there I may as well see if there is a broken or loose wire before actually buying the new alternator. Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortedal Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 get an electrical tester and see what volts are in battery with engine off then run it to see volts reading, should tell you if the alt is working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2xr2 Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 get an electrical tester and see what volts are in battery with engine off then run it to see volts reading, should tell you if the alt is working. Did that this morning. Without the engine running I had 12.50 volts across the battery. Started the engine, and it started first time! Had 13.90 volts showing. Turned on all the lights and rear screen and still showed 13.85 volts on the multimeter. So to me that shows the alternator is working correctly and topping up the battery. So now I am looking at prehaps the starter has a dead spot, and that is why sometimes it fails to start. Checked the connections to see if any loose ones or breaks in the wires, which were fine. Cleaned the connections up and refitted them with a smear of copper grease. Starter looks to be the original one as fitted from new. But it then would not start again. So reckon it had stopped in the starters dead spot. I have now removed the starter and now shopping around for a new reconditioned one. Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 get an electrical tester and see what volts are in battery with engine off then run it to see volts reading, should tell you if the alt is working. Did that this morning. Without the engine running I had 12.50 volts across the battery. Started the engine, and it started first time! Had 13.90 volts showing. Turned on all the lights and rear screen and still showed 13.85 volts on the multimeter. So to me that shows the alternator is working correctly and topping up the battery. So now I am looking at prehaps the starter has a dead spot, and that is why sometimes it fails to start. Checked the connections to see if any loose ones or breaks in the wires, which were fine. Cleaned the connections up and refitted them with a smear of copper grease. Starter looks to be the original one as fitted from new. But it then would not start again. So reckon it had stopped in the starters dead spot. I have now removed the starter and now shopping around for a new reconditioned one. Rob. 13.9 is still slightly lower than expected (the average is 14.5v) leading me to suspect either your battery or alternator much as you have, however the cold might be exacerbating the situation mildly. Id still have to say you have a charging issue somewhere along the way and my money would be on the alternator which should still be throwing out 14.5 wether the battery was holdiung it or not due to the cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2xr2 Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 Well the new battery is still in the car, so I can rule that out. So you reckon the alternator may not be putting out the full amount of charge, but my test shows it is still functioning satisfactory to put some charge back into the battery. Why I am thinking the starter, is because normally when you turn the key to start a engine, the starter makes a noise as it engages. This when it fails to start makes no noise at all, so not doing anything. Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 Well the new battery is still in the car, so I can rule that out. So you reckon the alternator may not be putting out the full amount of charge, but my test shows it is still functioning satisfactory to put some charge back into the battery. Why I am thinking the starter, is because normally when you turn the key to start a engine, the starter makes a noise as it engages. This when it fails to start makes no noise at all, so not doing anything. Rob. I dont suppose youve noted wether your battery light go's out when attempting to start or after start have you? If it doesnt it can indicate that the switch wire isnt attached to the alternator (they snap off at the terminal really easy) and then the alternator only fires a short term supply to the battery to charge it for no more than a minute before stopping entirely and just supplying the engine instead, thus leaving your battery only slightly charged instead of continuously. also, if your battery light doesnt come on atall no matter what you try then the bulb maybe out, in most situations this is just a inconvenience but this particular bulb makes up a part of the charging switch circuit and without it the alternator wont charge the battery again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2xr2 Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 Well the new battery is still in the car, so I can rule that out. So you reckon the alternator may not be putting out the full amount of charge, but my test shows it is still functioning satisfactory to put some charge back into the battery. Why I am thinking the starter, is because normally when you turn the key to start a engine, the starter makes a noise as it engages. This when it fails to start makes no noise at all, so not doing anything. Rob. I dont suppose youve noted wether your battery light go's out when attempting to start or after start have you? If it doesnt it can indicate that the switch wire isnt attached to the alternator (they snap off at the terminal really easy) and then the alternator only fires a short term supply to the battery to charge it for no more than a minute before stopping entirely and just supplying the engine instead, thus leaving your battery only slightly charged instead of continuously. also, if your battery light doesnt come on atall no matter what you try then the bulb maybe out, in most situations this is just a inconvenience but this particular bulb makes up a part of the charging switch circuit and without it the alternator wont charge the battery again. Battery light comes on with ignition lights, and goes off when car engine start and stays off when running. Only comes back on when I switch the engine off again. So light works as it should. I found this web site which explains how to check out the alternator and starter motor. Helped me, so thought I would post up the links. It says a alternator should be in the range of 13.5 - 14.4 volts when operating. Mine was 13.9 so perfectly ok. Alternator. http://www.carbasics.co.uk/How_to_test_your_alternator.htm Starter. http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_test_a_starter_motor.htm Going to check out my original starter tomorrow before going out to get a new one. Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodney,. Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 if your putting anywhere around 13.8 volts then the alt is fine and not running lower than should be , sounds more like starter playing up , when the starter dont work , try to bridge it to see if it starts , if it does then its a wirin fault, if not go starter,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2xr2 Posted December 12, 2010 Author Share Posted December 12, 2010 Just to end this topic. It was the starter which was the main problem. Starts first and every time with a new Ford motorcraft item fitted. With this and a new battery, feel much more confident the car will be 100% reliable these cold mornings. Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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