Posted March 1, 201113 yr right not happy stuppid cow reversed in to my car today and bent all my front arch i just want to know how hard it is to replace the wing
March 1, 201113 yr Author thank you i will still need to respray it to mica stone how much you want for it
March 1, 201113 yr found this on another site easiest way is to remove the door and drill out welds ,or a air chissel and even seen people do it with a hammer and chissel,  Say £30 +postage
March 2, 201113 yr right not happy stuppid cow reversed in to my car today and bent all my front arch i just want to know how hard it is to replace the wing  Piece of pi55 really. You'll need: Pop Rivet gun (and rivets obviously)10mm HSS drill bit5mm HSS drill bitSocket set with 5mm socket in itNo.45 torque bit.flat Screw driver or chisel2x (or more) sets of mole grips 1. remove the locking screw from both door hinges, disconnect the door swing restraint bar and door loom.... lift door off hinges and place aside 2. carefully centre the 10mm drill bit on every spotweld (centre punch marking the spotwelds helps) points along the bonnet edge and drill until the tip notably begins to bite into the engine bay lip which the wings fixed to. 3. Once all welds are drilled out in a similar fashion (including the two on the door jam and below the headlight) use the driver/chisel to separate the wing from the lip by carefully levering at each weld point. to replace with new wing panel: 1. If you was careful during the drilling process you should now be able to drill out the centre point made by the original 10mm with the 5mm bit, do so 2. Line up the new panel to the point were it will be seated once the job is complete and securely clamp with mole grips (alternatively I prefer to fire a couple of self taper screws in as they eliminate most any movement during prep)WARNING: THIS POINT IS ESSENTIAL TO GET RIGHT, IF YOU POSITION WRONG THE JOB WILL LOOK A COMPLETE TWAAAAT ON COMPLETION 3. using the 5mm holes as a template, mark their points through the holes and onto the new panel. 4. Remove panel again and drill out the marks with the 5mm bit before replacing it on the car again and riveting it down into place (alternatively you can forgo the 5mm drilling of the bay lip and weld through the new panel holes and onto the lip if you prefer to go for a more professional welded option)
March 2, 201113 yr right not happy stuppid cow reversed in to my car today and bent all my front arch i just want to know how hard it is to replace the wing  Piece of pi55 really. You'll need: Pop Rivet gun (and rivets obviously)10mm HSS drill bit5mm HSS drill bitSocket set with 5mm socket in itNo.45 torque bit.flat Screw driver or chisel2x (or more) sets of mole grips 1. remove the locking screw from both door hinges, disconnect the door swing restraint bar and door loom.... lift door off hinges and place aside 2. carefully centre the 10mm drill bit on every spotweld (centre punch marking the spotwelds helps) points along the bonnet edge and drill until the tip notably begins to bite into the engine bay lip which the wings fixed to. 3. Once all welds are drilled out in a similar fashion (including the two on the door jam and below the headlight) use the driver/chisel to separate the wing from the lip by carefully levering at each weld point. to replace with new wing panel: 1. If you was careful during the drilling process you should now be able to drill out the centre point made by the original 10mm with the 5mm bit, do so 2. Line up the new panel to the point were it will be seated once the job is complete and securely clamp with mole grips (alternatively I prefer to fire a couple of self taper screws in as they eliminate most any movement during prep)WARNING: THIS POINT IS ESSENTIAL TO GET RIGHT, IF YOU POSITION WRONG THE JOB WILL LOOK A COMPLETE TWAAAAT ON COMPLETION 3. using the 5mm holes as a template, mark their points through the holes and onto the new panel. 4. Remove panel again and drill out the marks with the 5mm bit before replacing it on the car again and riveting it down into place (alternatively you can forgo the 5mm drilling of the bay lip and weld through the new panel holes and onto the lip if you prefer to go for a more professional welded option) What the hell do you need to remove the door for ? Don't forget the two bolts inside the wing on the a-pillar You can see those two bolt holes on this pic:http://www.orioncosworth.co.uk/images/galleries/thebuild2009/1243524829-img_2696.jpg
March 2, 201113 yr What the hell do you need to remove the door for ? Don't forget the two bolts inside the wing on the a-pillar You can see those two bolt holes on this pic:  because its easier to reach the jam stuff (which I didnt mention due to it being obvious once te doors off). it also helps with lining the new panel back up using the door jam points as a good fixing point to start your lining up.
March 2, 201113 yr What the hell do you need to remove the door for ? Don't forget the two bolts inside the wing on the a-pillar You can see those two bolt holes on this pic:  because its easier to reach the jam stuff (which I didnt mention due to it being obvious once te doors off). it also helps with lining the new panel back up using the door jam points as a good fixing point to start your lining up. The bolts are inside the wing, not the door jam
March 2, 201113 yr What the hell do you need to remove the door for ? Don't forget the two bolts inside the wing on the a-pillar You can see those two bolt holes on this pic:  because its easier to reach the jam stuff (which I didnt mention due to it being obvious once te doors off). it also helps with lining the new panel back up using the door jam points as a good fixing point to start your lining up. The bolts are inside the wing, not the door jam   hmmm, maybe cossie wings are different? From the one I fitted (well replaced the drivers side existing one tbf) on a mate of a mates escort, both were bolted from the outside in as appose to within the arch itself. Id assumed this was the norm on standards?
March 2, 201113 yr What the hell do you need to remove the door for ? Don't forget the two bolts inside the wing on the a-pillar You can see those two bolt holes on this pic:  because its easier to reach the jam stuff (which I didnt mention due to it being obvious once te doors off). it also helps with lining the new panel back up using the door jam points as a good fixing point to start your lining up. The bolts are inside the wing, not the door jam   hmmm, maybe cossie wings are different? From the one I fitted (well replaced the drivers side existing one tbf) on a mate of a mates escort, both were bolted from the outside in as appose to within the arch itself. Id assumed this was the norm on standards?Nothing to do with Cosworths  http://www.orioncosworth.co.uk/images/galleries/cjtallispaintshop/1239472250-img_4494.jpgYou can see the bolt holes here, no need to take the doors off to get to them (remove inner arch liner)
March 3, 201113 yr no you get me wrong Stoo, they used the OEM bolting points your indicating, just the both wings (damaged and replacement) were both accessable from the outside only, hence why I stripped the door away (which is relatively simple to acheive really) which gave me better access to the bolts which inturn aided me with the final postioning. however!! I have just checked the pair I bought for mine recently and they dont seem to be similar to the ones I previously fitted to the forementioned mate of mate mobile, They infact are fitted in the fashion you described, a fact Im am now grateful to know about due to the fact that Id have likely have whipped off my doors without realizing thing that Id had needed to and just made more work for myself in the process.
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