massivewangers Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Don't suppose he fancies making me one too? That bumper was on ebay wasn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmotorsport Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Looks good mate! Can't wait to see more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muz Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 After test fitting the front bumper I've discovered a few things. The replica bumpers are totally different to genuine bumpers (obviously as the chassis is Sierra not Escort) but I didn't realise just how different! Firstly, the dimensions are very different. The genuine bumper is far shallower (about 2 inches) from the wheel arch to the front. This is to take up the distance to the wheel arch as the front section of replica wings is longer behind the sidelight so the wheel sits in the centre of the arch and is also why replicas using genuine wings and front bumpers have the wheel too far back in the arch. Found some good examples below in the same colours with the same wheels; Real Escort Cosworth; http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/cossiecrew/Picture008.jpg Replica with genuine wings and bumper; http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/jjperformance/Picture003-16.jpg Replica with replica wings and replica bumper; http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t115/ciscokid_bucket/g.jpg You can see that when you compare them they are all very slightly different and this is one of the reasons replicas never look quite right. The proportions aren't quite as they should be at the front because of the different wing lengths which requires a deeper bumper. But theres more... Secondly, the heights of the bumpers are also different. On real cars the front bumper should be level with the sideskirts. On replicas they aren't. This is because of the foglights. The fogs in the bumper are in different places on a genuine bumper and a replica designed for a FWD car due to them fouling on the FWD front crossmember as I found out yesterday, so on a replica bumper they set the fog lights about 15mm lower in the bumper which makes the space above them too big as they also have to move the smaller grille down to keep that in line. This then leaves the manufacturer with two options, either make the cut out at the bottom smaller (as shown in the bottom photos) which completely changes the shape of the bumper, or make the bumper longer so the proportions from the front look fine, but then look weird from the side (as can be shown on the red car above, then bumper is too long) Genuine front bumper; http://www.rscosworthbreakers.co.uk/new%20unit%20parts%20029%20(Small).jpg Replica front bumper with shallower bottom grille. http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2007/1/2007012121405313111CIMG2019.JPG What I plan to do (as my genuine bumper is pretty smashed up) is to cut it about 2 inches in from the wheel arch and extend it back so it fits properly. I will then cut the crossmember so the fog lights fit in and re brace it properly like the lads have done who have used genuine bumpers and mine should then be a cross between the two. Hopefully as the proportions will look right on the front with regards to fog light position, grill size and correct height with regards to the sideskirts the difference in wing length shouldn't be too noticeable. I thought this is quite a good write up for anyone who has or was thinking about building a replica as to why the front ends never look correct unless a lot of money is spent using genuine wings, bumpers and custom lower arms to set the wheel in the arch correct like the one below; Probably THE best replica ever built; http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f277/zetecturbo1/195.jpg Happy reading guys. :king: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmracer Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Yes, mate! You are fallowing the right way. This is my car in progress, you can see the extention of the genuine bumper and the wheel archhttp://www.postimage.org/Pq1zhHq0.jpghttp://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9533/81991549.th.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muz Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 Yes, mate! You are fallowing the right way. This is my car in progress, you can see the extention of the genuine bumper and the wheel archhttp://www.postimage.org/Pq1zhHq0.jpghttp://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9533/81991549.th.jpg That's the stuff! It helps to keep the proper Cosworth bumper dimensions this way. The only way to get it looking 90% right with fibreglass wings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
True Blue Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Yes, mate! You are fallowing the right way. This is my car in progress, you can see the extention of the genuine bumper and the wheel arch very nice pictures mate however the wheel wont be central in the arch? like this one:http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/jjperformance/Picture003-16.jpg EDIT: I think not, because you are using replica front wings, am I right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muz Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Yeah, mine are fibreglass replica wings so the wheels will be in the centre of the arch. Just the genuine bumper will now need to be extended. Got a bit more done today. Fitted the new clutch. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1171.jpg I tried and tried and tried to get the gearbox on but it just wouldn't mate up. I thought the clutch plate might be slightly off as I always put them in by eye not letting the splines engage but it all looked fine. In the end I got so fucked off with it I removed the engine completely again put the gearbox up to it and it slotted in first time :wall: :cry: Cue engine back in and I could crack on elsewhere. Painted and fitted the fuel tank as it was a bit tatty. Luckily the braided fuel lines that were on the car when I bought them fit the RS2000 set up, so I was happy about that. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1184.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1185.jpg And stripped out all the glass, rubbers and fittings ready to be painted. When the kit was fitted and it was painted none of the glass or trim was removed so some areas are a little iffy. Now I've removed the rear quarters there is a step that was behind the window rubber where the fibreglass panel sits over the metal. This will be seen if I use pop-outs at some stage so needs to be properly smoothed in. Also the rears of the front arches are still bare fibreglass as they weren't painted so need to get the doors off to paint this area. I'm doing a proper job of it this time with a doors off, glass out, trims off etc. I still need to get the windscreen out but my guitar string wire snapped half way round. :tiff: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1186.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1187.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee grout Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 looks wicked mate. Love the in progress pic's above. Looks mean as' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hezz Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 you dont hang about !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muz Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 you dont hang about !! Really? I'm behind my deadline. I wanted it painted by June! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan99940 Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 what colour are you going for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muz Posted May 28, 2011 Author Share Posted May 28, 2011 I'm going for Radiant Red to match the RST. It has to be White or red for the cheap, cheap respray so went with red. I 400 wet the whole car tonight ready for primer which has highlighted a few bits which need a little filler or stopper bride primer which I'll do Sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muz Posted May 28, 2011 Author Share Posted May 28, 2011 Managed to get a few hours in last night. First job was to get the front screen out. With that done I could crack on with flatting the car off.I did the one rear quarter panel in 600 wet, but wasn't happy with the finish. The paint on the car was quite bad in the past and put on pretty thick and not quite even, so I decided to get a bit more aggressive and did the whole car in 400 wet and it's come out lovely. A few bits like where the side skirts meet the other panels needed doing in 240 wet and where the quarters meet the door shuts in 320 wet and the filler was a little lumpy here or there was crap in the paint making high spots. It still needs a bit more work and some filler here and there (also need to weld up the lock holes and flush them off on both doors and the boot) but I'm still aiming to have it in primer by Sunday night. Please excuse the photos, some areas are still wet and it hasn't been panel wiped yet, just gone over with a damp sponge. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1190.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1191.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1192.jpg One thing I am happy about is upon removing all the rubbers, glass etc I am yet to find one single spot of rust! Not even any surface rust on any of the trim fixings etc and the underside is spotless as well, never touched by a welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongo Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 awesome progress on this welldone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muz Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Well somehow I managed to get some work done on the car. Not bad considering last night I drank my weight in Guinness, had 4 1/2 hours sleep and woke up in my garden shed....don't ask. Anyway, I started by getting rid of those panel join lines. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1200.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1201.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1202.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1204.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1205.jpg Tidied up the rear quarters and re seamsealed the joins. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1203.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1207.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1206.jpg A few other bits also needed some filler then some high build. Then laid some primer on the shell. I could then tell it needed a few bits of putty here and there to get the shell straight then a bit of high build here and there and it's all looking nice and straight. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1212.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1211.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1208.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1209.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/murray_eversham/FakeCos/IMG_1210.jpg Wednesday I should be able to get the roof, boot and doors in primer as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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