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remote locking


supersport
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what have people used? looking to fit one to my MK5 as the drivers door lock doesn't unlock.

 

 

there easily come by and range from a simple wiring activity to wiring and some mechanical work.

 

the easier of jobs will usually require you to wire the remote system directly into a cars existing OEM non-remote central locking and can usually be done in a afternoon if your reasonably wiring savvy.

 

the more involved job requires you to fit two-way solenoids to every door lock mechanism you wish operated remotely and can be a bit more fiddly and take a day to achieve.

 

beyond that all you need concern yourself with is choosing a kit with a remote fob you like the look of. :pancake:

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what have people used? looking to fit one to my MK5 as the drivers door lock doesn't unlock.

 

 

there easily come by and range from a simple wiring activity to wiring and some mechanical work.

 

the easier of jobs will usually require you to wire the remote system directly into a cars existing OEM non-remote central locking and can usually be done in a afternoon if your reasonably wiring savvy.

 

the more involved job requires you to fit two-way solenoids to every door lock mechanism you wish operated remotely and can be a bit more fiddly and take a day to achieve.

 

beyond that all you need concern yourself with is choosing a kit with a remote fob you like the look of. :pancake:

 

mines already got central locking being a GLX, so will get one from ebay then. cheers.

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  • 2 weeks later...

depends if you've installed the solenoids as well as the remote system itself, then you can opt either way you choose but you'll find generally (if I remember my Haynes well enough that is) that from the Mk5 onwards to the last model the OEM module used a negative pulse version signal.

 

Ive also fitted (what might be a good dozen now) several alarms and remote systems to escorts over the years, Including the current one sat outside my door.

 

as a rule though I would like to say its a whole lot simplified if the OEM module is removed from the equation entirely as when the factory fitted remote is also taken into account the whole system can get occasionally confused and you can often find your alarm going Ballistic even though you opened the doors with the remote, due to the alarm occasionally not recognizing the entry as legit.

 

Also its generally a rule that adding remote locking whether aftermarket or fords limited IR crap version means the obsoleting of the OEM "dealocking" feature as the use of it further confuses the alarm system.

 

My advice.

 

Yank the plug from the OEM CL module itself and replace it with the much more simplified aftermarket remote module (by wiring in at the plug points) to avoid tangling with the integrated alarm entirely and isolating the original module.

 

Beyond that I prefer to disconnect the door barrel rods, physically making the doors lock and unlock via the remote only.....so no "screwdriver to the barrel" scumbag approach to getting into your motor.

Edited by shawdreamer
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  • 3 years later...

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