Andy 3i Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Just a quick one guys, trying to narrow down my poor running and emissions issues. I've changed IAT, PCV valve, MAF, ICV (second hand), TPS (second hand) and literally just changed the coolant temp sensor for the ecu (not the one for the gauge). Basically the emissions are still sky high and I'm wondering 2 things... Firstly, a dodgy earth somewhere. I don't know where the earth for that would be even though my multimeter says it has an earth doesn't mean it can't be dodgy. Secondly, there doesn't appear to be a live feed a the plug for the coolant temp sensor. I get no volts whatsoever. Now I know it's impossible to rule out any dodgy wiring and I haven't checked continuity between the plug and the ecu but this is my next port of call. Which pin would it be on the DESK ecu? Obviously if there is no power at the ecu end then I'm guessing possibly a dicky ecu. The emissions are as follows; CO: 3.76-4.54 fluctuating (I would expect around 0.06 for a car with no cat). HC: 540-670 fluctuating (I would expect around about a max of 200ish). Basically, is there anything I could of missed? I know it's a bit of a ramble but I've got ideas that need putting down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 lambda sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy 3i Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Ahhh, replaced that one too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Was it doing this before you changed the inlet cam? You know it needs mapping, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy 3i Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Well yes and no...it was running pretty shite before but since I've done the clutch it's started dying after being left to idle. It could be cos of the lumpy cam I suppose. The bit that I'm tripping on is the fact I haven't got a live feed at the coolant temp...is it meant to have one? Reference the mapping...surely it wouldn't run quite so rich on standard map? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 I wouldn't be surprised if the cam is affecting emissions, it shouldn't that bad as it's not a particularly hot cam, but it is possible. It shouldn't make it run poorly though, that does sound like another issue. Yeah the IAT and coolant sensor are NTC type sensors. You should have a +5v feed at one side and ground at the other. You should test this without it plugged into the ECU though, as the way it works is by pulling down the ECU's 5v to a lower voltage. The ECU has what's called a "pull-up" in it, which is not particularly strong (think, high value resistor), so a lower resistance to ground (the NTC) will cause the voltage to drop. The ECU then monitors this drop. Bottom line, yes one pin in the plug should be +5v without anything attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escort Si-130 Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Have you checked the sensors for resistance value, what engine does your car have in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 The emissions are as follows; CO: 3.76-4.54 fluctuating (I would expect around 0.06 for a car with no cat). HC: 540-670 fluctuating (I would expect around about a max of 200ish). We're running a 2L on a standard ECU and no CAT. It runs sweet and tests at 1.3% CO, 125ppm HC, with both readings stable. I shouldn't think you'll get anywhere near .06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy 3i Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 (edited) Thanks for all the comments guys. Found a broken wire for the coolant temp sensor which has been repaired now. I'm guessing its made some improvement because its not dying now. As for engine, it's a 2.0 zetec, 130 inlet. Oh Steve, I meant 0.6...typo After I've repaired the wire and have power at the sensor the emissions have for worse Edited June 28, 2013 by Andy 3i Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottybo Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 slightly pff topic and im sorry for the hijack but just out of interest what should the emmisions be below on an escort in order to pass an MOT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 slightly pff topic and im sorry for the hijack but just out of interest what should the emmisions be below on an escort in order to pass an MOT Depends on year of engine: http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_730.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy 3i Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 Stu, I think you mean year of car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Stu, I think you mean year of car No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy 3i Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 Really? "Was the vehicle first used between" clearly states year if car not engine. If the vehicle fails a bet test, then vehicle specific limits are introduced upon an exact engine and vehicle match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongo Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 try resetting the ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now