Yule Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Hey people, my cabby is poorly... The last few days on startup there's been a clicking noise instead of the engine turning over, I thought it might have been coming from the starter motor, it has been eventually starting tho. Now today I've gone to leave work & when put the ignition on I couldn't hear the fuel pump priming, didn't do a thing when turned the key no clicking no turning over, there is power though. Was just wondering if anyone had any ideas before I take it anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horizon Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 battery is my guess although could be the dreaded fuse box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawdreamer Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 queue Stu................... .........nope? fine then Ill do it. take it for a diagnostic check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yule Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 Looks that way, the rates at my local ford garage have gone so damn high recently. £89 an hour plus vat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksofstichill Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 When you say there is power there but it won't prime the pump or turn the starter do to just mean that you have an ignition light on? Reason for asking is that if the battery is run right down it might have enough power to put the ignition light on but not enough to fire the pump up.Check that the connections on the battery are all good and try it with a jump start using a decent pair of jump leads and see if it is just the same or not.....worth a try before you fork out at the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yule Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Yep there's plenty of power, lights are bright. Tried jumping it with decent cables & also tried to bump her down the road to no avail. Couldn't here the pump priming with leads attached either. So this leads me to think possible ignition or coil pack failure? What else could it be? Had it with cars this week have had 3 taxis go down on me as well! Ggrrrr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sortedford Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Pump should always prime for a couple of seconds iirc? although the clicking noise is usually the starter solonoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksofstichill Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Thats right, the pump should always prime for a couple of seconds or so when you first turn the ignition on. Coil pack failure wouldn't make any difference to the fuel pump priming and bump starting it wouldn't work either if the pump isn't running to prime or running when the engine is turning over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yule Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Ok cheers Ian, I'm gonna take a punt on the starter motor as they don't cost the earth & half the price of a diagnostics check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demented Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 If the engine wont start will a diagnostic fault code test actually reveal anything ? I thought the idea of diagnostic check was to read the various sensors dotted around the engine and registering a fault code when detecting an issue on a running engine ? I had experienced similar a few weeks ago; one evening after use through out the day without any signs of an impending issues, I went to start the car and nothing. A few clicks and ignition lights but nothing. It jump started immediately off another battery but nothing off it's own battery. I did notice after a few mins the ignition lights which were intially bright would eventually fade to nothing. Multimeter reading of the battery was 12.80v but still would not start, this would dropped to 4.85v when cranking. I replaced the battery and its been ok since. The new battery also reads 12.80v but 9.50v when cranking. I believe a healthy 12v Car Battery should display a multimeter reading in region of 10v during cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yule Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Ok thanks for your advice, managed to get a starter for £10 if that doesn't solve it then a new battery next, you'd have thought the battery may be the culprit in usual cold British weather but its been baking this last month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksofstichill Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 That's a bonus getting a starter as cheap as that! Let us know how you get on, I don't see how it can the starter if it wouldn't bump start and the pump doesn't prime but at that price it's worth fitting first before you try anything else I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yule Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Aye, it's not brand new but it's been tested & works so... With the pump not making any noise & the fact it's not turning over has left me scratching my head a little, I'm doing the starter as I'm sure it was on the way out anyway. Fingers crossed, not gonna have chance to fit it till the weekend tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yule Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 All sorted, bloody immobiliser fault. The grand total of £50 spent & I now have a spare starter motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demented Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Hey, that's good, pleased to hear it's all sorted. I'm curious, what was the immobiliser fault ? Was it the Ford factory fitted immobiliser ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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