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Changing Wheel??


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Just got home and found my mum looking at one of her wheels and tells me there's a nail in one of them and its hissing, so I said I would jack it up and change it do she'd be able to have it for work in the morning, but one of the bolts doesn't match to the brace, obviously a wheel lock on each wheel, she bought the car 2nd hand and wasn't given a key lock or anything ?( So if I take it to a garage will they still be able to get it off or not without the key?
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i bought a Pug 309 Gti once without looking to see if it had locking wheel nuts, had a puncture once and had to pump it full of Tyre Weld and get a garage to machine them all off!!!!


Can`t remember what they charged me now, it was bout 4 years ago!!

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read this a mate posted it on other forum;


OKay, here's what you do with these tri=lock types...


Firstly go to your local hardware shop or wherever sells sockets etc...*not the electrical kind*...and pick yourself up a star socket...i.e. has around 20 or so teeth on it (make sure you pick one up that is just a little smaller than the outside diameter of the locking nut head...


...get flat head screwdriver and hammer, and you then get the head of the screwdriver inside the free-spinning cap which goes round the outside of the head of the locking nut...and basically warp that bitch, till you can get it off of the locking nut itself...


Once this is off you have access to the softer metal head of the locking nut itself...


Next part is CRUCIAL....:-


You only have one or at best two shots at this next part, you have to take your socket which I mentioned above...and hammer this onto the head of the locking nut...the pointed edges of the teeth inside the socket should bite into the head of the locking nut, and the fact that it has around 20 or so teeth, should prevent it slipping and chewing the head up...but make sure you have given the socket as much hammer action as you can to make sure it is on far enough, or else it will just chew the head, and fall off at your first try of loosening it...


...I have used this many times in the past, on both my car and friends cars...


...if this don't work, or you don't get the socket on far enough and chew the head, then it's time to drill it off...use a centre punch to make an indent in the centre of the head...then use a small drill bit at first, gradually getting larger, without going as large as the diameter of the screw threads...as this will cock up your hub holes too...once you get to within a couple of mm from the diameter of the screw threads, you should then be able to collapse the carcass of the screw in on itself, and therefore be able to remove it from the hub hole...then just retap the hole before refitting another screw (just to make sure that there is no debris left from your hatchet job that went before)...


Hope this works...I have to do this procedure day in day out on seized bolts etc in my industry...is easy when you have done a couple, but if you aint done it before, take your time, throwing yourself at it normally results in you drilling at an angle, and twatting up the hub hole etc...patience always gives the best results...gradually increasing the drill bit size and trying to collapse the carcass of the screw each time will prevent you making a larger hole in the screw than you actually require, and will also mean that there is less chance of you cocking up the hub holes...


to save marking the allow put some tape round the lip that takes you from the face of the alloy into the recess...that way you can apply a bit more pressure to the wedging you have to do to remove the ring...




Hope this makes sense and helps you out...

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