b16 b3n Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 reeto, heres a few details My gti is on a R plate, its a 1.8 zetec mk6 Its been stood for six months and has full ford sh, im new to fords and just need a few pointers to see if it's normal ( i am mechanic but i just need opinions of other scort drivers firstly, its going to need a new clutch banging in, but when im going to order one i come across 2. One which says Bc gearbox's only, or a 1.8 si clutch? now im not sure which cltuch to order so does anyone know the diameter of the cltuch? If you do it would be great so i can get one ordered pronto. secondly, i serviced it all yesterday using the the castrol magnatec oil designed for ford engines the only modification i did make was i put a cone filter on isntead of the standard airbox. now ive fed the breather pipe back into the intake pipe before the filter but for some reason its feeling like its holding back before 3,000 rpm then it speeds up and goes no problem. Now im nut sure if it was doing this before hand as i didnt want to open it up before i checked it over properly. Last but not least, do these engines run particulaly warm? because i noticed yesterday that when i drive normally the temp is fine but when i give it some stick it seems to creep up to near the red but then the fan kicks in and it goes back down. Also is it normal for the car to get warm stood still say in 5 mins when engine is to running temp? the fans do kick and it does go down then the temp creeps up but im not sure if this is normal or not? All help would be appreciated because i dont want to be riping things out and replacing them if i dont have to. many thanks ben p.s forgot to ask is it possible to clean out the idle control valves or should i replace it? becuase the revs are slowly coming back down and when it stood still the revs creep then drop the odd occasion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Menace Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 First let me start off by saying welcome to EVO I can't help you with the clutch diameter, but I'm sure a few people on here have mentioned the escorts being a bit"hesitant" before 3,000 rpm, I could be wrong though. As for the engines running a little warm, this appears to be normal too. When I first bought mine and drove it back, it was great, but then I hit traffic and got caught up for about 5 mins or so, and the temp shot up towards the red, but just before it the fan kicked in and it went back down. I know a few people have asked this before so it appears to be normal. If I'm wrong then please, someone, correct me on it Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 You need an IB5 clutch (220mm). From Ford preferably. Standard airbox is better than a cone filter, i'd revert back. If the fans kick in and out I doubt there's a problem. They usually hover between the M and L of 'Normal' in hot weather. Best to replace the ISCV with a genuine Ford item if you think it's a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16 b3n Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 You need an IB5 clutch (220mm). From Ford preferably. Standard airbox is better than a cone filter, i'd revert back. If the fans kick in and out I doubt there's a problem. They usually hover between the M and L of 'Normal' in hot weather. Best to replace the ISCV with a genuine Ford item if you think it's a problem. cheers mate, just out of interest, why stick to the standard airbox? i mean ive had hondas in the past and ive replaced the airbox with short induction kits and i didnt have any problems. Are the fords a bit tempermental without the stnadard airflow? and thanks again mate youve helped me out with the clutch situation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gers1873 Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 (edited) i'm new to the ford thing and this forum myself mate and posted very similar questions only last week, here's what i done/found warm motor - checked out thermostat etc all found to be ok, engines appear to just run very warm. air filter - i too had a cone filter on mine wen i got it, was having idle probs, juddering and poor fuel ecomony, changed back to a standard airbox,cleaned the maf and icv and put a new lambda sensor on and problems cured, although not sure wot one cured it. Edited August 12, 2007 by gers1876 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 cheers mate, just out of interest, why stick to the standard airbox? i mean ive had hondas in the past and ive replaced the airbox with short induction kits and i didnt have any problems. Are the fords a bit tempermental without the stnadard airflow? The air filter isn't the restriction on the intake tract, so changing it to a cone filter isn't winning you anything. You will usually find a drop in horsepower due to the hotter air being sucked into the engine. Some Honda's appear to shine on some replacement 'CAI''s, most likely because the standard stuff is plain diabolical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majorj0nny Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 also remember that the 'normal' range on these cars is actually quite wide - ranging from quite low to quite high... as for the air filters - Ive used performance panel filters on my 2 zetec escorts ... A lot cheaper than cone filters , gives a little extra noise under the bonnet and 'seems' to provide a little extra throttle response - no BHP enhance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 idle speed control valve can be cleand out with carb clean, the revs beening crap befor 3k is down to cheep nasty air filter i recomend bmc catogry d with a cold air feed straight from the front or piper x venom both universal induction kits but both kept away from heat by beeing inclosed and bothe have large port size for air to flow through with less restriction, temperature gauge do tend to go up into the red then fan cuts in befor over heating but may be worth checking the operation of the thermostat as they are quite comon for seezing up on escorts, as for the clutch couldnt hellp u but buying genuine clutch of ford is best as they are practicaly all new type clutch wich is a short shift type so u dont have to depress the peddal to the flour the hole way to change gear and they are cheeper than what auto part etc will sell u a none genuine one for but shurley they will now what clutch is required from reg or chasis number Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16 b3n Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 many thanks for the help guys, standard airbox is going straight back on tomoz and panel filter has been ordered today!! will bear the genuine ford clutch in mind, i will give evans a ring tomoz, genuine is always better!! as i say its been stood for six months and hasnt been driven proparly before, has only had one owner and he only used to work and back which is about 10 min walk, so i shouved some injector cleaner down it, given it a good run and seems to running slighlty better. As for the maf sensor it was only replaced a year ago so i doubt its that so im going to clean the icv out and see what happens, if not replace the lamba sensor. will keep you posted!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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