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Oss

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  1. Aye can't be helped. Will be checking though! Take it easy
  2. Fix - for those who might have similar problem: Ford have repaired cables behind the drivers side wheel arch cover, so the receipt says. Not personally checked, due to weather. I never thought to look there but obviously at least 1 cable was buggered. Cost in time? 10 days sitting in Ford car park til they bothered to look at it. Cost in money? £65 tow to Ford and a straight £387 for 5 hours labour. Hopefully that will save someone the same. Just like to add thanks to Squiz, possibly saved my sanity.
  3. Just as an update, I've checked 3 grounds on right side, one neat ECU on left and ones at battery. Removed and stripped fusebox & resoldered all the joints on the outside - without desoldering the entire unit I can't get the inside ones. Made no difference - so either I've missed something obvious (quite likely) or it's beyond me (also likely). Tried to see if I could get any error codes out (blink codes ala LED / STO) but this escort is diff from my last and I don;t seem to be able to get the ECU to dump them. Nor can I find a guide here, strangely... Anyways, without further options it's off to Mr Ford Monday morning as I'm out of ideas... Cheers!
  4. Nothing special so far today... Rechecking some things: Removed and tested fuel inertia cutoff - it works as it's meant to and even bypassing it, no fuel pump operation (or 12v at the wires for that matter). Tested all relays except heated rear window & rear fog as theyve circuits in (timers I presume) and not worth breaking for the hell of it. From input elsewhere, grounding pin 32 of the ECU allows the starter motor to run when I turn the key - unable to gather what this really means currently. Apparently ECU not grounded properly is the theory. There are 2 black cables fro the ECU going to a ring connector & bolted to the chassis, checked and retightened that to no effect. Any ideas? Have I missed something? A decent wiring diagram or indeed 1 diagram that actually matched the car would be nice. Ford manual isn't accurate, Haynes is closer! Losing the rag :/
  5. Um nope.. a bit underwhelmed in the spares department, so to speak Fingers crossed I'm an arse and it's a bad ground!
  6. Hey Squiz Afraid ran short on time tonight and it looks like the weekend will be first day I get proper chance. I agree with what you're saying about PATS not being the problem & with the part swapping I'm inclined to think so too. I will be rechecking fusebox relays and grounds (ECU first!) at first opportunity. To summarise your ponderings: cranking the engine, no matter with PATS, or wrong key or right key or screwdriver in the ignition - led just goes out and nothing. :/ Dunno anyone else with an escort, certainly not that I can take a screwdriver to - but really am grateful for your posts and musings; most helpful in the dark hours. Good news soon I hope!
  7. Can't seem to find an edit button but nm.. Going to take a run through all the relays at next opportunity. The list of functions/labelling seems a little random but if they all work then that's 1 less likely cause. Will be checking grounds also, but this may end up being the weekend.
  8. Evening Not quite sure I'd be enthusiastic enough to get up at 5am.. saying up til then is another matter tho! Am glad to have your input, so please keep it coming... Onto the queries: Cranking position - since that day, using the key has never once turned the starter. The dash stays brightly lit with no change (rather than the dimming as the starter cranks and loads the battery) The PATS led just goes out like a errr, light at pos II Fuel pump connection seems physically ok. Turning the key does not send power to the pump connector as far as I recall. Not retested this to confirm as yet. Fuel pump cutoff - nope, not tried replacing it. It's just inline with one cable for the fuel pump. I would still expect the starter motor to turn without the fuel pump working (basing it on last escort fuel pump failing and everything else worked...) If I run 12v from the fuse box, over the seats to the fuel pump terminals I can make it spin up. Can someone confirm (if this is possible to ask) that the PATS/ECU combo will secure all 3 from being used: starter motor, edis* and the fuel pump? * Or whatever we are calling the thing that makes the sparks, brain not engaging at the mo.
  9. Ok todays update... ECU, PATS transceiver, key&barrel arrived today. Unplugged battery and swapped the bits over - same problem; key at II, dash lights up as usual, no fuel pump priming and PATS LED goes out with no flashing/errors! For Bullsrs I have bypassed the 3 large fuses at the battery, just in case, but no sign of change. No sign of loose grounds either, but that remains to be investigated further... If I don't plug in the PATS transceiver, I'm sure I get exactly the same symptoms. Short of any flashes of inspiration, I can see no option but to strip the dashboard out and see if something has happened to the wiring. If it means anything to anyone, the 2 thin black PATS cables that go to a connector under the dash seem to get voltage of sorts, possibly a signal wave. Can't tell with only the multimeter. I believe the other 2 black wires from the PATS unit at the steering column, may go up to the (clock) LED. Thanks guys/girls(?) for help, encouragement and suggestions so far Oss
  10. Ah gotcha cps - no idea if it works or if it stops the starter motor from going, but I'd assume the fuel pump would still prime/turn regardless? battery fuses - visually ok and 12v is present after all the fuses. I take your inference about a poor connection not being able to supply enough current and will try a bypass tomorrow (hopefully). Squiz - I'm getting that feeling where I'm sure the parts will arrive and I will suddenly discover something daft like a connector that's come apart. Or that the PATS transceiver wire is broken somewhere behind the dash that I haven't been able to see.. Still, as long as it's giving you guys something to ponder we can't complain
  11. Erm lost me on that one.. cps? Battery isnt that old and I can wire the starter motor up to turn - sounds great, turns engine over just fine. Car would usually start in under 1sec of cranking, so it's in decent condition.
  12. Results of this test: PATS led flashing about once a second, pulling 4 wire, green connector block off the transceiver ring and.... PATS led flashing about once a second like nothing happened. So would we take it from this that the transceiver unit is faulty or the wiring from the unit to the ECU is? I have a matching (hope) ECU, transceiver, lock barrel and key on the way. Expect it by Wed.
  13. Tis a thought but only 1 place that is likely to be that organised and by the time I get there (not quite 'local' and petrol and cost of part) it's perhaps almost as cheap to just get a set. Gotta work sat&sun so that doesn't help Thx
  14. Yep.. had all cables out of fuse box, fusebox apart and fuses checked. Cables and plugs all looked in good condition...
  15. Yep, checked the interia switch and all ok. That wouldn't explain the starter motor not turning, nor the lack of sparks tho Thanks again Squiz for the thoughts & musings - I really am just waiting for it to be something daft.
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