SteveB

That's not a fault - it's correct operation. After the initial prime the ECU waits until it starts receiving a signal from the crank sensor before turning the pump back on. i.e. the pump only runs when the engine is turning.

I've got a spare 1.6 ECU with red key chip. PM me if you're interested.

Can I ask, did it rain by any chance shortly before the car stopped working? Water can get in under the battery box and run down into the ECU causing all sorts of wierd symptoms that go away by themselves after a few days.

The hole is the air bleed so should be at top.

Thermostat stuck shut?

I got messed around so much by people ordering these and then not paying that I stopped making them. If you PM me your location I can tell you if there is someone near you that has one. My reader is actually a microprocessor housed inside a connector so it's a bit more than just a solder job. http://158.143.56.200/~steve/reader_pcb.jpg

the codes you get are not from the ECU.... mosis: your car is not OBD-II. It's a Ford only system called DCL, so don't waste your money on the ones from ebay as they won't work.

Said it before - Take the plug off of the ICV and see if it cuts out

The centre pin should vary from 0 to 5 volt as you rotate it, and yes your symptoms are of a dead TPS. Edit: btw the one on the MK4 fiesta is the same part

There's a figure 8 shaped rubber gasket in the manifold that might have pinged out. You could also pull the plug off of the ICV to see if the engine dies when it's disconnected.

How are you going to calibrate that - falling weight maybe?

From what you are saying, it doesn't sound to me like it's overheating. Are you sure that you really have a mechanical fault, and it is not just the gauge reading wrong?

you developed dyslexia at a young age? oh you mean about the car! the charging system is a relatively simple system with very few things that can actually go wrong. try checking to see if there's a large variance in voltage level between the alternator and battery while the car is running using a multimeter. the general rule is if there's a notable difference (1volt or over) you have a problem somewhere along the main charging cables (you mentioned a damaged cable....maybe its damaged at multiple points?), if the voltage is more or less the same then the likelihood is your battery being fubar'd and not excepting a charge. other worthy notes... check main earthing points around the battery (there should be a chunky one thats quite near the battery negative, make sure its solid still) you mentioned you alternator was pushing out 13.4v, thats relatively low, the norms atleast above 14v for a healthy alt, 13.4v probably drops to around the 12.4v mark when you turn your lights on which means your batteries getting feckall charge. have you added anything to the cars electrical system lately.... car alarm, remote locking, electric windows? Minimum charge voltage is 13.8, so as said with 13.4 you're putting nothing in and the battery will go flat. Ideally you want to see 14.2. You may have blown a diode in the alternator if it was shorting out.

Glad you got it sorted. The idle will probably even itself out after a few days driving, and the emissions will come down as well. The miss on acceleration will be down to the MAF.

The ECU knows what airflow to expect during the dynamic engine tests, and it appears that your MAF is out of calibration. I would try cleaning it. You'd be surprised how much crap gets stuck onto the hot wire. If you look down the tube you'll probably see the hot wire covered in black gunk. Spray carb cleaner or IPA onto the resistor elements until it looks silver, and try again.