HOW TO CHANGE A TIMING BELT?

[SORTED-ESCORT]

Right, I'm going to get a haynes manual and attempt this myself, is there any special tools required to lock in positon at TDC Or any other special tooling needed?

 

Also is there any how to guides to do it aswell and has anyone got any tips or things to pass on as if its really difficult to do etc.

 

Cheers

 

 

All help appreciated.

 

 

[meekstaaa]

haynes will tell you how to do it

[SteveB]

haynes will tell you how to do it

 

The instructions have changed since the Haynes book was printed. I'll try to scan the Ford instructions and post these tomorrow.

 

You need a camshaft holding tool and a camshaft sprocket tool. You can either buy these or make them yourself. The holding tool is just a strip of metal 5mm thick, and the sprocket tool is just two pieces of metal and 3 bolts. You don't need a special tool to lock the crankshaft as described in Haynes.

 

You also need a torque wrench, a torx bit set, and a ribe bit set. The ribe bit (at least thats what I think it's called) looks like a torx but has squarer and deeper lobes. Halfords have a set made by Laser that has both types in it.

[SORTED-ESCORT]

haynes will tell you how to do it

 

The instructions have changed since the Haynes book was printed. I'll try to scan the Ford instructions and post these tomorrow.

 

You need a camshaft holding tool and a camshaft sprocket tool. You can either buy these or make them yourself. The holding tool is just a strip of metal 5mm thick, and the sprocket tool is just two pieces of metal and 3 bolts. You don't need a special tool to lock the crankshaft as described in Haynes.

 

You also need a torque wrench, a torx bit set, and a ribe bit set. The ribe bit (at least thats what I think it's called) looks like a torx but has squarer and deeper lobes. Halfords have a set made by Laser that has both types in it.

 

 

Thank you kindly for your help, Will I also need a timing disk to check when its at TDC and a timing gun to check? I want to do tensioners aswell etc just to be safe. If you could pm with the scanned sheet if it doesnt load up on here i'd appreciate it,

 

Thank you again for your help Steve.

[SteveB]

Will I also need a timing disk to check when its at TDC and a timing gun to check?

 

Instructions as promised. You don't need a timing light or disk.

 

 

http://158.143.56.200/~steve/cambelt_1.jpg

http://158.143.56.200/~steve/cambelt_2.jpg

http://158.143.56.200/~steve/cambelt_3.jpg

[onehotminute_191]

camshaft holding tool, get yourself a bit of 5mm thick bar that is just longer than the width of the head. that slots into the end of the cam shafts. it will only fit one way (when the cam shaft are bolted down to torque) and its a tight fit so you may also want a file handy and take the suface or the bar down a tiny bit at a time until it pushes in (if its too loose its no good)

 

getting top dead centre can be fun, either use one of those micrometer type tools, its got a long pin that goes into the bore and i cant remember its name, or use the timing marks on the sump.

 

and if your doing it with the engine in, its lots of fun. let us know how you get on

[escort4x4]

finding tdc is easy. when buying a zetec timin kit it comes with a crank locking pin, this is located under the exhaust manifold on the block, you put in your metal plate and then put that in, bearing in mind you have to take the 13mm nut out to bolt in, when tdc it wont let the crank move in a clockwise motion, REMEMBER TO REMOVE THIS BEFORE TURNING OVER OR STARTING THE ENGINE. also remember to get the tool to help crack off the cam shaft pulley bolt, doin this with the cam shaft locking plate in wud crack the cam at the end

[SORTED-ESCORT]

Thanks All,

 

I think we should sticky this thread when finished.

 

So I need a 5mm thick piece of flat bar longer than the head but how wide?

 

Also do I have to get the cam sprocket holding tool to hold them in place at TDC from Ford ? Or is there a universal tool I can buy with like a spider leg I can adjust to suit?

 

One last thing what is the "special" tool required to crack the cranshaft nut off to stop damaging the cam shaft?

 

 

Thanks!!!

[escort4x4]

look on ebay fella type in this product number

 

250271665317 thats the tool needed

250271665317 thats the locking kit

[SORTED-ESCORT]

haynes will tell you how to do it

 

The instructions have changed since the Haynes book was printed. I'll try to scan the Ford instructions and post these tomorrow.

 

You need a camshaft holding tool and a camshaft sprocket tool. You can either buy these or make them yourself. The holding tool is just a strip of metal 5mm thick, and the sprocket tool is just two pieces of metal and 3 bolts. You don't need a special tool to lock the crankshaft as described in Haynes.

 

You also need a torque wrench, a torx bit set, and a ribe bit set. The ribe bit (at least thats what I think it's called) looks like a torx but has squarer and deeper lobes. Halfords have a set made by Laser that has both types in it.

 

Thanks, I'm going to make a them as per haynes (camshaft holding tool / sprocket tool) in haynes it seems to describe the sproket tool as having 90 degree bends? however it is a bolt on the proper tool????

 

Also what is the best method to slacken of the crankshaft bolt?? I will need that held in place.

 

I also don't seem to get why we need to slacken off the camshaft sprokets? is this just so the belt can go on more freely? and i'm guessing i need to slacken both???

 

 

Thanks guys

 

[SteveB]

Thanks, I'm going to make a them as per haynes (camshaft holding tool / sprocket tool) in haynes it seems to describe the sproket tool as having 90 degree bends? however it is a bolt on the proper tool????

 

Also what is the best method to slacken of the crankshaft bolt?? I will need that held in place.

 

I also don't seem to get why we need to slacken off the camshaft sprokets? is this just so the belt can go on more freely? and i'm guessing i need to slacken both???

 

 

Thanks guys

 

 

I made a tool as per the Haynes, but instead of trying to bend the end of each bar I used a bolt with a sleeve on it. Worked great.

 

As onehotminute_191 says, you need to chamfer the leading edge of your 5mm bar - it's a very tight fit in the camshafts and will also scrape the head if you don't.

 

Crankshaft bolt - put the car in top gear and get a mate to stick foot on brake. You won't damage the engine mounts - the bolt is fairly tight, but nothing compared to engine torque.

 

Step 1. Take off drive belt cover if fitted.

Step 2. Loosen crankshaft bolt

Step 3. Remove power steering fluid return pipe and lift off power steering reservoir - maneuver it round and lay at front of bay right way up. Don't forget to plug the pipe!

Step 4. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts

Step 5. Take drive belt off

Step 6. Remove water pump pulley. Rotate the pump to get the pulley off. There is a point where there is just enough room to get it off

Step 7. Loosen the power steering pipe to give some room and take the upper cambelt cover off.

Step 8. Remove camshaft cover.

Step 9. Set engine to tdc using timing marks and insert locking bar

Step 10. Remove crankshaft pulley and remaining covers

 

Rest is in instructions.

 

The camshaft sprockets need to be loosened to allow the belt to find it's tension - yes you need to loosen both. Also fitting the tensioner spring pin is easier if you take off the front sprocket. There are not bits behind it to fall off!

 

And escort4x4 has the wrong engine - there's no locking pin on these.

 

Hope this helps and good luck

[escort4x4]

if he has a zetec engine then im not wrong buddy because i used the tools provided in my reply, i locked my crank off, and used the metal plate

 

idea of loosen off the cam shaft pulleys is that sometimes the belt can be a pain to get on, so with loose pulleys you can put the belt on with out the cams moving, once on id tighten up the tensioner pulley then tighten up the cam shaft pulleys

[SORTED-ESCORT]

finding tdc is easy. when buying a zetec timin kit it comes with a crank locking pin, this is located under the exhaust manifold on the block, you put in your metal plate and then put that in, bearing in mind you have to take the 13mm nut out to bolt in, when tdc it wont let the crank move in a clockwise motion, REMEMBER TO REMOVE THIS BEFORE TURNING OVER OR STARTING THE ENGINE. also remember to get the tool to help crack off the cam shaft pulley bolt, doin this with the cam shaft locking plate in wud crack the cam at the end

 

 

I have got a kit cheap and it has come with the 5mm plate (with a small cut out) also two pins, im guessing its these??? so im looking for a 13mm nut under the exhaust mainfold? so that means when i get engine to TDC i bolt this pin in and theres no way i can loose TDC then 'cos the cams a locked in effect??

 

Cheers,

 

Thanks, I'm going to make a them as per haynes (camshaft holding tool / sprocket tool) in haynes it seems to describe the sproket tool as having 90 degree bends? however it is a bolt on the proper tool????

 

Also what is the best method to slacken of the crankshaft bolt?? I will need that held in place.

 

I also don't seem to get why we need to slacken off the camshaft sprokets? is this just so the belt can go on more freely? and i'm guessing i need to slacken both???

 

 

Thanks guys

 

 

I made a tool as per the Haynes, but instead of trying to bend the end of each bar I used a bolt with a sleeve on it. Worked great.

 

As onehotminute_191 says, you need to chamfer the leading edge of your 5mm bar - it's a very tight fit in the camshafts and will also scrape the head if you don't.

 

Crankshaft bolt - put the car in top gear and get a mate to stick foot on brake. You won't damage the engine mounts - the bolt is fairly tight, but nothing compared to engine torque.

 

Step 1. Take off drive belt cover if fitted.

Step 2. Loosen crankshaft bolt

Step 3. Remove power steering fluid return pipe and lift off power steering reservoir - maneuver it round and lay at front of bay right way up. Don't forget to plug the pipe!

Step 4. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts

Step 5. Take drive belt off

Step 6. Remove water pump pulley. Rotate the pump to get the pulley off. There is a point where there is just enough room to get it off

Step 7. Loosen the power steering pipe to give some room and take the upper cambelt cover off.

Step 8. Remove camshaft cover.

Step 9. Set engine to tdc using timing marks and insert locking bar

Step 10. Remove crankshaft pulley and remaining covers

 

Rest is in instructions.

 

The camshaft sprockets need to be loosened to allow the belt to find it's tension - yes you need to loosen both. Also fitting the tensioner spring pin is easier if you take off the front sprocket. There are not bits behind it to fall off!

 

And escort4x4 has the wrong engine - there's no locking pin on these.

 

Hope this helps and good luck

 

THANKS! So do i get it to TDC before I loosesn this or does in not matter as im guesing it has a woodruff location type system holding it on aswell as the centre bolt.

 

Cheers.

[SteveB]

finding tdc is easy. when buying a zetec timin kit it comes with a crank locking pin, this is located under the exhaust manifold on the block, you put in your metal plate and then put that in, bearing in mind you have to take the 13mm nut out to bolt in, when tdc it wont let the crank move in a clockwise motion, REMEMBER TO REMOVE THIS BEFORE TURNING OVER OR STARTING THE ENGINE. also remember to get the tool to help crack off the cam shaft pulley bolt, doin this with the cam shaft locking plate in wud crack the cam at the end

 

 

I have got a kit cheap and it has come with the 5mm plate (with a small cut out) also two pins, im guessing its these??? so im looking for a 13mm nut under the exhaust mainfold? so that means when i get engine to TDC i bolt this pin in and theres no way i can loose TDC then 'cos the cams a locked in effect??

 

Cheers,

 

Thanks, I'm going to make a them as per haynes (camshaft holding tool / sprocket tool) in haynes it seems to describe the sproket tool as having 90 degree bends? however it is a bolt on the proper tool????

 

Also what is the best method to slacken of the crankshaft bolt?? I will need that held in place.

 

I also don't seem to get why we need to slacken off the camshaft sprokets? is this just so the belt can go on more freely? and i'm guessing i need to slacken both???

 

 

Thanks guys

 

 

I made a tool as per the Haynes, but instead of trying to bend the end of each bar I used a bolt with a sleeve on it. Worked great.

 

As onehotminute_191 says, you need to chamfer the leading edge of your 5mm bar - it's a very tight fit in the camshafts and will also scrape the head if you don't.

 

Crankshaft bolt - put the car in top gear and get a mate to stick foot on brake. You won't damage the engine mounts - the bolt is fairly tight, but nothing compared to engine torque.

 

Step 1. Take off drive belt cover if fitted.

Step 2. Loosen crankshaft bolt

Step 3. Remove power steering fluid return pipe and lift off power steering reservoir - maneuver it round and lay at front of bay right way up. Don't forget to plug the pipe!

Step 4. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts

Step 5. Take drive belt off

Step 6. Remove water pump pulley. Rotate the pump to get the pulley off. There is a point where there is just enough room to get it off

Step 7. Loosen the power steering pipe to give some room and take the upper cambelt cover off.

Step 8. Remove camshaft cover.

Step 9. Set engine to tdc using timing marks and insert locking bar

Step 10. Remove crankshaft pulley and remaining covers

 

Rest is in instructions.

 

The camshaft sprockets need to be loosened to allow the belt to find it's tension - yes you need to loosen both. Also fitting the tensioner spring pin is easier if you take off the front sprocket. There are not bits behind it to fall off!

 

And escort4x4 has the wrong engine - there's no locking pin on these.

 

Hope this helps and good luck

 

THANKS! So do i get it to TDC before I loosesn this or does in not matter as im guesing it has a woodruff location type system holding it on aswell as the centre bolt.

 

Cheers.

 

You won't find a hole for the locking pin on this engine - the pin method wasn't used until the later yamaha black top zetec-s engines like you find in the fiesta and focus. These engines don't have timing marks hence the need for a timing pin, but you do.

 

You can't find the correct tdc locking point until you've got the camshaft cover off because you don't know the camshaft phase until you can see them. You loosen the bolt to finger tight first so you don't loose tdc when you take the crankshaft sprocket off later - and yes, it slips onto a key.

[SORTED-ESCORT]

You won't find a hole for the locking pin on this engine - the pin method wasn't used until the later yamaha black top zetec-s engines like you find in the fiesta and focus. These engines don't have timing marks hence the need for a timing pin, but you do.

 

You can't find the correct tdc locking point until you've got the camshaft cover off because you don't know the camshaft phase until you can see them. You loosen the bolt to finger tight first so you don't loose tdc when you take the crankshaft sprocket off later - and yes, it slips onto a key.

 

 

I thought that there is marks on the sump also to show TDC? I was going to turn engine to line up the mark and then remove rocker head?