Attempting cam belt and water pump

[cherrybeard]

Hopefully I have this right.

- No water comes out the overflow pipe until the engine gets hot enough that steam comes out!

- the rad doesn't get hot

- the heaters go cold then hot then cold etc. (this seemed to happen suddenly)

- the top hose does get hot after a while but I can't feel much coolant flowing through

- the temp sensor doesn't indicate overheating even though it really does feel like the engine is too hot

- revving the engine does push some coolant out the overflow pipe and makes the heaters blow hot

- there is a big build up of crusty coolant around the water pump, behind the cam belt covers (good still shot at secs 22 and 35 in video below)

- the water pump leaks

I assume that not only does the water pump seal need replacing, but that the impeller blades are gone/corroded meaning not much flow of coolant. I will be attempting a replacement along with the cam belt which should be fun as its my first time.

I have read through threads on here and through the haynes a coupla times. Only this that I am not sure about is the camshaft sprockets. Is there any reason these need to be disturbed as Haynes seems to suggest that they may need slackening and re-tightening to adjust the sprockets to get the belt on properly.

 

Video of suspect pulleys and coolant leak from water pump

 

While I was poking around.......

- I found that the alternator bearing sounded bad (secs 4-5 in video). There is no discernible freeplay. Does this need replacing?

- I found some end float in the power steering pump pulley (secs 49-59 in video). There is no freeplay in any other direction. Does this pulley or the pump need attention?

Edited April 2, 2013 by cherrybeard

[cherrybeard]

Just to tie this post up a bit and answer a few of my own questions.......

After speaking with someone today and having a play with some pulleys from various engines, I found that most of the power steering pumps had some end float in the pulleys but I did find one with no movement at all so I assume that any in/out play in the bearing is a sign of wear. Also got me a new alternator with a silent bearing so that's them two bits sorted.

I also read through some more posts on here and found that the reason for loosening the camshaft sprockets is so that the difference in belt stretch/tension between new and old can be accommodated, something I hadn't thought of before.

All new parts arrived at the weekend so can get on with the cambelt/water pump replacement.

[cherrybeard]

Small update after being away working for a while. I know some of you scoff at changing a cam belt and water pump but this is open heart surgery for me.

 

I took the old water pump out and it appeared to be ok albeit the bearing was noisy and it leaked. So not sure why there was a bad flow of coolant. I have already put the new one on.

 

I noticed that there was no tensioner spring or pin to hold the spring on. Bad news. How did the garage that did the cam belt last time know what the tension should have been?

 

I also noticed that the belt was a little slack between the camshaft pulleys. This means they didn't loosen the sprockets. Bad news. Won't ever be going to that garage again.

 

I also found that my little crowbar was perfect for jamming the flywheel so that the crankshaft pulley bolt could be loosened. Its the smallest out of the little set here. I did a lot of reading on this first and found that people were snapping camshafts by using the timing bar as counter-torque. Oh, and don't do what I did and take off part of the starter (rather than the whole thing) and get covered in various cogs, some sort of cover and a ball-bearing. I guessed at where the ball-bearing went back in so I hope the damn thing works when I turn the key next.