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how to change a mk6 escort clutch ratchet/quadrent


dutchkev

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tried to post this in the how to a couple days ago but it aint showing up :unsure: maybe ive been banned from posting there :roll:

 

first off, a massive thanks to shawdreamer and everyone else how helped me through this ballache of a job - without them this guide wouldnt be possible :cheers:

 

tools you'll need:-

 

mole grips/decent pair of pliers

needle nose pliers

philips screwdriver

ratchet/10mm socket

6mm allen key

torch

hope and a prayer

 

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set aside roughly 2-3 hours for this.

 

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there are 2 methods for sorting this out - firstly you could have the car towed to a garage and hand over between £90-£130 and let them do it

 

OR

 

go to ford and buy the part yourself for £12.69 inc VAT - this is the cheapest option

 

1. unclip the kick plate by the door sill, unclip the yellow seatbelt pre-tensioner and the red electric seat ajusrment (if you have one). using the ratchet and 10mm socket, undo the 5 bolts holding the drivers seat, 3 at the back and 2 at the front. youll have to slide the seat all the way forward to access the 3 rear bolts, and all the way forward to access the 2 front bolts. remove seat

 

2. using the philips screwdriver, remove the lower dash surround by unscrewing the 5 screws located under the steering column. unclip the yellow clip and remove

 

3. now you have full access to the inside of the car and clutch/brake/accelerator pedal. using the 6mm allen key, unwind the clutch adjuster all the way out. now remove the brake switch and the brass clip on the brake pedal that holds it. behind the clutch pedal you will see a spring attached to the clutch pedal an dthe footwell floor, remove the spring.

 

4. now the clutch pedal should be free of obstructions, looking directly up at the pedal assembly you will see the brake pedal and clutch pedal are held on the same bar, also you will see 2 yellow rubber spacers, TAKE NOTE AS TO WHERE THESE ARE AS YOU'LL NEED TO PUT THESE BACK ON LATER. this bar needs to be removed in order to change the clutch ratchet/quadrent. to the right of the bar, closest to the center console you will see a small brass circlip, this needs to be removed before anything else can be done. using the needle nose pliers, push the circlip up at either end towards the steering column, this is fiddly but by far the easiest method i tried.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/22451.jpg

 

5. with the circlip removed, take the mole grips and clamp on the end of the bar on the OUTSIDE of the metal casing and pull towards the center console, now this will be stiff to move and difficult to pull, so you can either soak the bar in WD40 for a min or so before pulling, lift both clutch and brake pedal up whilst pulling, wiggle the bar up and down whilst pulling towards the center console, or all 3 or a combination of the 3 to get the bar out - be persistant but it will come.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/22452.jpg

 

6. the brake pedal and clutch pedal will both come off the bar, along with the 2 yellow rubber spacers, you may also see some black plasic rings, dont loose them as they sit in the holes at the top of the brake and clutch pedal, these WILL need replacing. you will now be greated with the broken clutch ratchet, this will still be attached to the clutch cable, unclip the broken ratched and replace with the new one, ensuring the cable is pushed in firmly at the end, and it is facing the same way as the old ratchet was. your half way there!!

 

*note the clip attatched to the broken clutch ratchet - will need replacing in the same place/direction as the new one*

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/22453.jpg

 

7. now its time to put it all back together!! the clutch pedal/brake pedal/yellow spacers now has to be re-fitted back onto the bar. - take note - the bar will only go in and out one way, it must be inserted back through the hole from the center console towards the drivers side door, one end is round, one end is D shaped, the D shaped end has to go in FIRST

 

8. the clutch ratchet will sit inside the clutch pedal, so when you put the bar through the hole, ensure that the hole on the clutch ratchet and the hole on the clutch pedal line up, once you have the bar through the clutch pedal/ratchet, put the 1st yellow spacer on.

 

9. next is the brake pedal, this works on the same principle as the clutch pedal, bar passing through the ratchet. at this point the bar will be more difficult to push due to the 1st yellow spacer, so some force is required. when you have the bar through the second hole and the brake pedal hole, its time to fit the second yellow spacer. this is more difficult than the 1st one as it sits in a recess, but bare with it and persist, its essential it goes back on, otherwise the pedal will wobble about.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/22454.jpg

 

10. now that the clutch pedal/brake pedal and spacers are all on the bar, you'll need to give it one last shove to get it back through the last hole, but bare in mind the bar can only go one way, so you'll have to turn the bar to match up with the D shapped hole, once the bar it through, re-attatch the circlip at the other end - this bit is also a nightmare to do, but again, stick with it or you'll regret not doing it.

 

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/22455.jpg

 

11. now it time to clip/plug/screw/bolt everything back together! using the 6mm allen key, wind the clutch pedal back IN to bring the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal. now re-attatch the spring you remove at the beginning to the footwell floor and the hole in the back of the clutch pedal. this will pull the clutch pedal down abit, so re-adjust as needed.

 

12. re-attach the brass clip that holds the brake pedal to the bar, and re-attatch the brake switch into the hole. now grab the lower dash surround and clip the yellow clip back together and screw the lower surround back to the dash

 

13. put the seat back into position, ensuring the yellow pre-tensioners are positioned BELOW the seat runners, and tighten up the front 2 bolts. clip the yellow pre-tensioner and red electric seat adjustment (if applicable) back together and tighten up the remaining 3 bolts

 

14. stand back, admire your work, then admire the cuts/bruises and skin missing off your knuckles, then test your newly fitted clutch ratchet on the drive down to A&E for your tetnus shot

 

 

 

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this guide has been written up to the best of my knowlage and although may not be 100% accurate, should be a good enough guide/indication for you to follow and hopefully sort out the problem yourself and save you a good handfull of cash

Edited by dutchkev
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Firstly , let me say how grateful I am for finding this HOWTO, I managed to replace my quadrant, without too many hiccups.

Just one important edit, I am not sure if this pertains to all models, But there is a "hidden" clip on the outside of the brake pedal which needs to be removed as well.

Remove with a piece of hooked wire solved the removal though.

Also the removal of the steering linkage on the firewall, was extremely easy and solved the working space problem on the console side, on the fuse box side , unclip the fuse box and remove from the clasps, then remove the long plugs so the fuse box can drop completely out of the way..

 

I have only one problem, the spring , was hanging from the floor attachment when I started , Now I have no idea where to attach it to the pedal, Can anybody please assist?

 

Thank you

Wayne

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