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vacum leaks


roboboyo

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Vacumm tends to be on the inlet manifold side.

 

So the inlet manifold and any pipe leading to the inlet manifold, except fuel feed and return.

 

Recommended to spray WD40/Carb cleaner/Damp start around the inlet manifold and any pipes from there while the engine is idling, if a Vacuum leak is present the sprayed substance will be sucked into the inlet manifold and there'll be a noticeable change with idle.

 

It's also possible to un plug the ISCV electrical connection while idling, doing so the engine should stall, if it not, then a vacuum leak is present.

 

I'm currently experiencing similar issues on my Rs2000 and also on my GTI.

The Rs is currently in bits while I rebuilt the coil pack loom.

The Gti, I believe the cause is the PCV valve.

 

I removed the PCV valve from the engine and although still not right, there was a noticeable difference.

 

So, I removed the rubber PCV valve pipe from under the coil pack and I was able to control the idle by covering the end of the pipe with my thumb.

 

Now I've unplugged the electrical connection of the the ISCV, removed the PCV valve and stuck a Gas central heating drain valve in the PCV rubber pipe to the inlet manifold.

The central heating valve, I can open and close to adjust the air flow; I've also covered with a cotton cloth, to act as a filter.

 

Although this isn't ideal, it's cured my idle and high rev issues until I buy a new PCV valve.

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Vacumm tends to be on the inlet manifold side.

 

So the inlet manifold and any pipe leading to the inlet manifold, except fuel feed and return.

 

Recommended to spray WD40/Carb cleaner/Damp start around the inlet manifold and any pipes from there while the engine is idling, if a Vacuum leak is present the sprayed substance will be sucked into the inlet manifold and there'll be a noticeable change with idle.

 

It's also possible to un plug the ISCV electrical connection while idling, doing so the engine should stall, if it not, then a vacuum leak is present.

 

I'm currently experiencing similar issues on my Rs2000 and also on my GTI.

The Rs is currently in bits while I rebuilt the coil pack loom.

The Gti, I believe the cause is the PCV valve.

 

I removed the PCV valve from the engine and although still not right, there was a noticeable difference.

 

So, I removed the rubber PCV valve pipe from under the coil pack and I was able to control the idle by covering the end of the pipe with my thumb.

 

Now I've unplugged the electrical connection of the the ISCV, removed the PCV valve and stuck a Gas central heating drain valve in the PCV rubber pipe to the inlet manifold.

The central heating valve, I can open and close to adjust the air flow; I've also covered with a cotton cloth, to act as a filter.

 

Although this isn't ideal, it's cured my idle and high rev issues until I buy a new PCV valve.

 

 

could a vacuum leak cause an engine to cough and splurt when accelerating ????, How easy is it, to fit a pcv valve?, also, whats the size of the vacuum pipe, from pcv to inlet? cheers

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Vacumm tends to be on the inlet manifold side.

 

So the inlet manifold and any pipe leading to the inlet manifold, except fuel feed and return.

 

Recommended to spray WD40/Carb cleaner/Damp start around the inlet manifold and any pipes from there while the engine is idling, if a Vacuum leak is present the sprayed substance will be sucked into the inlet manifold and there'll be a noticeable change with idle.

 

It's also possible to un plug the ISCV electrical connection while idling, doing so the engine should stall, if it not, then a vacuum leak is present.

 

I'm currently experiencing similar issues on my Rs2000 and also on my GTI.

The Rs is currently in bits while I rebuilt the coil pack loom.

The Gti, I believe the cause is the PCV valve.

 

I removed the PCV valve from the engine and although still not right, there was a noticeable difference.

 

So, I removed the rubber PCV valve pipe from under the coil pack and I was able to control the idle by covering the end of the pipe with my thumb.

 

Now I've unplugged the electrical connection of the the ISCV, removed the PCV valve and stuck a Gas central heating drain valve in the PCV rubber pipe to the inlet manifold.

The central heating valve, I can open and close to adjust the air flow; I've also covered with a cotton cloth, to act as a filter.

 

Although this isn't ideal, it's cured my idle and high rev issues until I buy a new PCV valve.

 

 

could a vacuum leak cause an engine to cough and splurt when accelerating ????, How easy is it, to fit a pcv valve?, also, whats the size of the vacuum pipe, from pcv to inlet? cheers

 

anybody know??????

 

im worried about my engine, and im starting to think all kinds of bad faults, like....... My engine is fcuked!!!!!!!! can somone re erasure me, coz i checked my plugs, and they were wet!!!!!!, if its major engine failure, i have no option but to fix her, coz she is my baby, and ive spent loads on her, plus, the body work is v good!!!

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Cough n spluttering could be the HT leads or coil pack.

The coil pack a quite reliable, however over time the HT leads can perish.

 

I've experience what I believe is the HT leads absorbing moisture, cough n spluttering first thing in morning only on acceleration especially when cold, raining or damp condition; replaced HT leads, issue resolved.

 

The erratic idle can be a number of causes, most common is a vacuum leak somewhere or a faulty ISCV.

 

If the ISCV is sticking, I believed it will either keep the revs hanging high or not high enough.

 

I believe the silvertop engine is still a Zetec, only difference being the cam cover, I'm sure I'll be corrected if there's more to it, however the PCV valve is at the front corner of the engine on the passenger side, adjacent to the exhaust manifold, just below the cylinder head.

 

A rubber elbow extrudes from the PCV valve; without removing the PCV valve squeeze the elbow pipe with a pair of pliers while engine is idling, if the desired idle can be achieved, I'm confident the PCV valve is the cause.

 

This rubber elbow pipe connects to metal pipe which runs under the coil pack, then onto another rubber pipe which is approx 13mm in diameter, this pipe connects to the back of the inlet manifold.

 

I believe a new PCV valve cost in region of £10 from Ford Dealers; easy to fit, just pops in.

 

Using the Central heating drain valve is not necessary, I only did this to help diagnose the issue and as it's a Sunday.

 

Engine running rough can be caused if the spark plug gap is incorrect, so worth checking the gap.

 

As for spark plugs being wet, if wet with fuel after engine failing to start or been running uneven, then that's to be expected, engine could be running rich though.

 

If running rich, then the O2 sensor maybe faulty, this may also cause uneven running and high n low idle issues.

 

However, if spark plugs wet with oil, then yeah, this could be bad.

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Forgot to mention; if the spark plugs are wet and don't smell of fuel, then coolant could be entering the cylinders.

That's not good, sign of head gasket failure.

 

look for a creamy brown sludge in engine oil filler cap and or oil floating on the Coolant, inside the expansion bottle.

 

Also when engine at normal operating temp, squeeze coolant hoses; should be soft and able to squeeze, if not and feel firm, thats another sign of exhaust gases entering the coolant.

 

Be careful, when squeezing coolant hoses, they could be hot and if worn, on the verge of splitting, use a cloth and cover to prevent scalding.

 

Have a Block/Sniff Test carried out, this will confirm if exhaust gases are present in the coolant.

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