Nw Clutch Needed - Any advice?

[luke83g]

Hi - I need a new clutch on the Escort (1.6 Finesse yr 2000). I was going to get a three piece clutch kit and also relace the clutch cable. DO I need a new clutch quadrant?

 

Never done a clutch before, Im a moderately experienced home car DIY peros - have done cambelts, brakes master cylinders etc in the past - is this job very difficult? Any tips on what parts to get / makes are the best etc.

 

Many thanks

[Scort_CVH]

Will be easy enough for you mate, the quadrant is a long ass job bout 3-4hrs in a cramped place and I'd avoid it if it wasn't needed.

 

As for cluch get the 3 piece kit make isn't massively important on a lower power model so I'd say QH or something would be fine.

 

You might want an alignment tool other than that can do the job with a basic socket set!

[luke83g]

Great thanks for the advice! Is this an engine out job? Gonna read up the old haynes manual tonight and make a call as to whether this is within my capabilities!

 

Got a quote from Garage and they said £150 - £180 labout + VAT then also £98 + VAT for the parts. Been on Eurocarparts and three pice kits are avaliable for £80 posted. Just can't justify spending the money on car atm - as with most peope things are really tight financially but I want to keep this (my last Escort) on the road for as long as possible!

 

^^ Can afford kit but not Garage lol!

[Scort_CVH]

Hi mate sorry I never saw this earlier, nope engine can't say in place.

 

•air box out

•speedo cable out

Clutch cable off

Gear linkages off (10mm Bolt and the 17mm support)

Support engine by jack using wood across the sump

Here's where I usually remove the starter and all the gearbox bolts (be careful they are different lengths) bar top two and a bottom one.

Rear gearbox mount is a b*stard need to remove the top part and then the three legged bracket that slots over studs in the gearbox and then nuts used to hold it on. Can get to the nuts from the wheel area, when you have the box dropped cut 10-15mm off the bottom stud to aid re-fitting!

Once that's off there's a mount at the front near the washer bottled which has two 17s? Maybe 19s

At this point the engine is only supported by one mount

 

So watch what you're doing

Now support the box with another jack and undo the remaining bolts

Carefully lowering the engine jack and box jack until the engine is at an angle will allow you to slide the box off (fight it like mad more like) lol

 

Btw I've assumed the driveshafts are already removed if not, you should do this at the beginning (lower arm pinch bolt out and hub nut off)

 

Then it's a case of undoing the pressure plate (12mm?) and removing the old cluch, then fit the new one! Carful with alignment and make sure you tighten the pressure plate in opposites.

 

New release bearing is easy, give the box a quick clean on inside and on shaft, grease on shaft.

 

Once you've built everything back up remember to re-fill gearbox oil if you took the full shafts out

 

Sorry for the rubbish writing I'm on my phone lol

 

Garage is dear to me, you want to kind a mechanic that does homers looking more like £100 to fit the clutch (no vat obv)

 

I'd help if you were closer mate

[demented]

Replacing the clutch on an Escort is not for the faint hearted.

 I've done many clutch/gearbox replacements and I find the Escort a pig of a job.

 

Taking apart, dropping the gearbox, fitting the clutch is easy, however, aligning the gearbox with the engine and rear gearbox mount during refitting is the hard part.

 

On every Escort clutch/gearbox replacement, even though I worked out a knack to make it easier, it is still the most difficult and frustrating part of the job.

 

If you do decide to tackle the job yourself, during removal, with the gearbox still in place, its easier to separated the drive shafts at the inner CV joints and remove but keep the the inner CV joints inserted into the gearbox to prevent oil loss and spillage during gearbox removal.

 

However, prior to refitting the gearbox, due to greater access, it's easier to remove the inner CV joints from the gearbox before refitting and tightly stuff rags into the holes where the driveshafts fit, to prevent oil spillage.

 

Although, to the more experienced this may sound strange but personally, I found it worked for me.

 

It's also easier if the gearbox is suspended from above, rather than just a trolley jack from below.

Initially I used a rope tied to a 3ft lenght of 3x3 wood, suspended across the slam panel and the suspension turret.

 

Although its much easier to suspend the gearbox via a engine crane, especially when an engine crane can be hired for approx £15 per day.

 

Like Scort_CVH said, the quote from the garage is dear. 

 I would expect a Fast Fit Center to charge in region of £180 for parts, labour & VAT, but bear in mind, such places normally only replace the the friction plate and maybe the release bearing, so not an entire 3 piece clutch but you will have a warranty.

[luke83g]

hi - thanks so much for the advice - sorry for the delay don't have internet at home and works hectic!

 

Some sound advice there guys!

 

Will let you know how I get along!

[ScORTED]

it is a tw@t of a job on your back in this weather on the drive but one man can do it. I did a few with less experience than you. just be prepared for lots of shoulder presses and swearing / wiggling until its all lined back up

[luke83g]

Ok great thanks - decided to tackle this myself! Can any forum members help to confirm that the following clutch kit for sale on eBay is the right one for my car? (1.6 Escort Finesse W reg) The ad says...

 

Brand new top quality CIS clutch kit

 

Part Number K847

 

Applications:

•FORD ESCORT 1.6 16v 4/1997 ONWARDS

•FORD ESCORT 1.8 16v (105, 115PS) (BC GEARBOX) 4/1997 ONWARDS

•210mm DIAMETER

 

Thanks!

 

I presume the late 1.6 shared the same clutch as the 1.8 litre engines?