Re- mounting a gearbox.... HELP

[268]

Hi I've reattached my gearbox including bellhousing bolts. I've attached the mounting bracket to the gearbox and I can't seem get it to align the bracket with the rear mount? I only have a trolley jack..... Is there any tips or procedure for doing this.... I'll follow with pictures later if it helps cheers! But spent hours shuffling it about t no avail! Edited August 24, 2012 by 268

[Ahmotorsport]

Are the bolts in the mount you have on tight? If so slacken them off a bit and try again.

[268]

That's a good idea, peeing it down at the minute so I'll go out in abit when it stops and get my mate to give me a hand. Would you recommend taking the mount off, attaching it to the bracket and trying it that way? I'll get some pics once it stops raining and if I'm still unsuccessful again tonight. At the moment I found it easier doing the head gasket than this though I think!!

[Ahmotorsport]

Try whatever is necessary to get the bugger on! Try different jack positions etc.

[bronze4door]

when i have done it in the past the gearbox was lifted into place then the mounting bracket was put on once there was enough clearance from the subframe, this was tightened up then the box was lifted up and wiggled about till it went over the other side of the mount

 

all times done on a drive with a trolly jack

[Jordan99940]

This was a bit of a badger for me I used a trolley jack as well as the scissor jack that should come with the car and some wood and placed this under the Sump to give me a bit more lift from different angles. I Personally left the mount attached to the car and then put the 3 threaded studs through the bracket into the gearbox. as earlier stated this was a bit of a douche with me too. but just think. if it came out it must go in (unless something in between has broken.

[268]

It's ok me and my mate did it! It was a right pain though! Put it on the mount first and managed to swing it in correctly. Bit of persuasion from the mallet. Problem was the bottom bracket thread catching on the wishbone. I can't see why they didn't just use bolts !! But thank god its done. For future reference I think removal of the passanger wishone would maybe be beneficial.... Also does the gearbox deach from the bellhousin aas I think this would of helped lots.

[Scort_CVH]

If I remember right the mechanics I know cut 10mm off one of the studs to make it easier to go in

[ekkie7]

If I remember right the mechanics I know cut 10mm off one of the studs to make it easier to go in

I suggested the same idea 3 months back,should be a post on here somewhere but makes it more easier,plus put the top mount on 1st when gearbox is on the engine.

[268]

Yeh definately a good Idea thing constantly sits on the wishbone otherwise. Had to remove the stud before I dropped the gearbox. I thought about modifying the setup to go off bolts instead; would make remounting and refitting so much easier. But thought it's got to be set up like that for a reason so perservered and it's back on the road now.

[demented]

I found that by removing the first nut and bolt of the wishbone, the one adjacent to the side of gearbox and pulling the wishbone forward gives access to the engine mount bolts behind it.

 

I also found it easier to suspend the gearbox from above with a trolley jack underneath it.

 

Initially, I suspended gearbox on rope using a 3ft length of wood (3x4) resting across the front slam panel, inner suspension torrent and firewall panel, just in front of the battery.

 

With the gearbox under the car, when I tightened the rope, the gearbox was hanging freely and although I was able to mate the engine to gearbox relatively easy, like everyone else, I had issues, lots of issues with the rear mounting bracket.

 

On another occasion, I used the same techniques with the wood and rope, (I even believe I may of left the rear mounting bracket still attached to the gearbox), I placed the gearbox on the saddle of a cheap £19.99 trolley jack and I ensured that the bottom of the bell housing was over lapping the sump, kind of more over towards the drivers side.

 

When I raised the gearbox with a combination of rope pulling and jacking, the gearbox raises at an angle with bell housing going up first and mated with engine with ease.

 

The rear mount bracket whether still attached or otherwise, went on and into its desired position without issues.

 

 

On the next occasion, did same as above with a engine crane and was so much easier.

 

 

I also find its much easier when oil has been drained from the gearbox and inner CV joint and drive shafts completely removed from gearbox, it maybe possible to keep drive shaft connected to the hub and tied up but I believe easier if completely removed.