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TD engine finally in.... Knocking and smoking.


VanMan_Jas

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Finally got the engine fitted to my van.

Changed the timing belt and removed the egr system too while the engine was out.

 

Starts fine straight away and idles ok. Oil and water levels all fine. Oil and filters changed too.

However, there is a knocking noise, bit difficult to tell where it is coming from, top / bottom etc.

 

Also, when pressing the accelerator to rev the engine, there is thick black smoke from the exhaust, even once the engine has warmed up.

 

My first question is, could the knocking and smoking be related or separate issues? Eg. Timing slightly out?

Or is the smoke related to the egr system being removed / blanked off?

 

Jas

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  • 4 months later...

still not got round to getting this sorted.

 

ANyone know what timing pin I need for the 1.8 TD.

All the ones I can find are for a zetec....

 

Either these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180908029772?ssP...984.m1438.l2649

 

Or these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-DIESEL-Timi...=item2a22ff1775

 

I have the locking bar, so only need the pin. Dont really wana pay £30 just for a timing pin!

 

I originally used a drill bit but dont think it was accurate enough and may be the cause of my problem....

:rolleyes:

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still not got round to getting this sorted.

 

ANyone know what timing pin I need for the 1.8 TD.

All the ones I can find are for a zetec....

 

Either these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180908029772?ssP...984.m1438.l2649

 

Or these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-DIESEL-Timi...=item2a22ff1775

 

I have the locking bar, so only need the pin. Dont really wana pay £30 just for a timing pin!

 

I originally used a drill bit but dont think it was accurate enough and may be the cause of my problem....

:rolleyes:

you will need the one that screws into the block that bears against the crank , but you can use drill bits to lock the camshaft and pump as long as they are the right diameter its always put the belt on with the pins in then remove all the pins and rotate engine by hand stop just before the holes line up,put in the crank locking pin,then turn to the stop and insert pins ,they should go in if not re time again until perfect ,i have found that the inj timing dosn't need to be far out to affect emissions

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still not got round to getting this sorted.

 

ANyone know what timing pin I need for the 1.8 TD.

All the ones I can find are for a zetec....

 

Either these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180908029772?ssP...984.m1438.l2649

 

Or these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-DIESEL-Timi...=item2a22ff1775

 

I have the locking bar, so only need the pin. Dont really wana pay £30 just for a timing pin!

 

I originally used a drill bit but dont think it was accurate enough and may be the cause of my problem....

:rolleyes:

you will need the one that screws into the block that bears against the crank , but you can use drill bits to lock the camshaft and pump as long as they are the right diameter its always put the belt on with the pins in then remove all the pins and rotate engine by hand stop just before the holes line up,put in the crank locking pin,then turn to the stop and insert pins ,they should go in if not re time again until perfect ,i have found that the inj timing dosn't need to be far out to affect emissions

 

The one that screws in is the one I need but I cannot find it on its own? Only as part of a kit. I guess I'll have to buy the kit...

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still not got round to getting this sorted.

 

ANyone know what timing pin I need for the 1.8 TD.

All the ones I can find are for a zetec....

 

Either these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180908029772?ssP...984.m1438.l2649

 

Or these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-DIESEL-Timi...=item2a22ff1775

 

I have the locking bar, so only need the pin. Dont really wana pay £30 just for a timing pin!

 

I originally used a drill bit but dont think it was accurate enough and may be the cause of my problem....

:rolleyes:

you will need the one that screws into the block that bears against the crank , but you can use drill bits to lock the camshaft and pump as long as they are the right diameter its always put the belt on with the pins in then remove all the pins and rotate engine by hand stop just before the holes line up,put in the crank locking pin,then turn to the stop and insert pins ,they should go in if not re time again until perfect ,i have found that the inj timing dosn't need to be far out to affect emissions

 

The one that screws in is the one I need but I cannot find it on its own? Only as part of a kit. I guess I'll have to buy the kit...

 

 

did you change the plugs, and the oxygen sensor??

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still not got round to getting this sorted.

 

ANyone know what timing pin I need for the 1.8 TD.

All the ones I can find are for a zetec....

 

Either these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180908029772?ssP...984.m1438.l2649

 

Or these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-DIESEL-Timi...=item2a22ff1775

 

I have the locking bar, so only need the pin. Dont really wana pay £30 just for a timing pin!

 

I originally used a drill bit but dont think it was accurate enough and may be the cause of my problem....

:rolleyes:

you will need the one that screws into the block that bears against the crank , but you can use drill bits to lock the camshaft and pump as long as they are the right diameter its always put the belt on with the pins in then remove all the pins and rotate engine by hand stop just before the holes line up,put in the crank locking pin,then turn to the stop and insert pins ,they should go in if not re time again until perfect ,i have found that the inj timing dosn't need to be far out to affect emissions

 

The one that screws in is the one I need but I cannot find it on its own? Only as part of a kit. I guess I'll have to buy the kit...

£30 isn't to bad and at least you will know its right and you will be saving in the long road as you are doing it yourself

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still not got round to getting this sorted.

 

ANyone know what timing pin I need for the 1.8 TD.

All the ones I can find are for a zetec....

 

Either these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180908029772?ssP...984.m1438.l2649

 

Or these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-DIESEL-Timi...=item2a22ff1775

 

I have the locking bar, so only need the pin. Dont really wana pay £30 just for a timing pin!

 

I originally used a drill bit but dont think it was accurate enough and may be the cause of my problem....

:rolleyes:

you will need the one that screws into the block that bears against the crank , but you can use drill bits to lock the camshaft and pump as long as they are the right diameter its always put the belt on with the pins in then remove all the pins and rotate engine by hand stop just before the holes line up,put in the crank locking pin,then turn to the stop and insert pins ,they should go in if not re time again until perfect ,i have found that the inj timing dosn't need to be far out to affect emissions

 

The one that screws in is the one I need but I cannot find it on its own? Only as part of a kit. I guess I'll have to buy the kit...

 

 

start small, oxygen sensor??

ange and the

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In case anyone wants to know, ford code is:

tdc timing pin 21-204

This is part of the kit linked above.

 

Im going to re check all timing to rule that out.

The knocking is way too loud to be fuel I think.

Jas

thats why its called diesel knock because is does lol :thumb:

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  • 2 weeks later...

To follow up on this...

I bought a proper set of timing tools, removed the belts and started the timing from scratch.

 

I have realised the error of my ways the first time around, I think I made the following mistakes:

I didnt use a specific timing pin (I used a drill bit)

The web of the crank may not have beenin contact with the timing pin when the belt was fitted. eg. it may have slipped.

 

Anyways... I retimed the engine and fuel pump, follow haynes and auto data instructions.

The van now starts and the knocking has gone. These engines arent the quietest, but it sounds a lot better.

 

Ok 2 problems left.....

 

 

1. Battery light stays illuminated on dash board. Aux belt is fitted and tensioned, connections are clean and tight, but the battery is not charging.

I guess the alternator could be knackered? It has been sat in my garage for 5 years?

 

2. Although fitted centrally on the pulleys, the timing belt is moving over towards the inner engine cover (by the engine block) and rubbing.

The only thing I can think that would cause this is one of the pulleys / tensioners is knackered?

 

Any ideas before I strip the gear to check the tensioners / pulleys?

 

Im beginning to think this van will never make it back on the road. lol

Jas

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To follow up on this...

I bought a proper set of timing tools, removed the belts and started the timing from scratch.

 

I have realised the error of my ways the first time around, I think I made the following mistakes:

I didnt use a specific timing pin (I used a drill bit)

The web of the crank may not have beenin contact with the timing pin when the belt was fitted. eg. it may have slipped.

 

Anyways... I retimed the engine and fuel pump, follow haynes and auto data instructions.

The van now starts and the knocking has gone. These engines arent the quietest, but it sounds a lot better.

 

Ok 2 problems left.....

 

 

1. Battery light stays illuminated on dash board. Aux belt is fitted and tensioned, connections are clean and tight, but the battery is not charging.

I guess the alternator could be knackered? It has been sat in my garage for 5 years?

 

2. Although fitted centrally on the pulleys, the timing belt is moving over towards the inner engine cover (by the engine block) and rubbing.

The only thing I can think that would cause this is one of the pulleys / tensioners is knackered?

 

Any ideas before I strip the gear to check the tensioners / pulleys?

 

Im beginning to think this van will never make it back on the road. lol

Jas

i seem to remember that there were modified tensioners ford changed them from the plastic ones to steel but this was a while ago now so would think that all are steel now but worth a check as the plastic ones used to break up :thumb:

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