1999 Ford Escort Flight 1.6 - is it OBD-I or OBD-II?

[MikeyRS]

Hi MikeyRS, thanks for your advice, I will check the MAF (I suspected that might be a possible cause, as it definitely feels like the ECU thinks the throttle isn't open sometimes, when it is, and isn't providing enough petrol to the engine).

I have just checked the throttle position sensor (TPS in case anybody searches for it!), and that was reading fine, so that's another thing ruled out. One interesting thing - I started the engine with the TPS cables disconnected, and it ran fine (at least when stationary) - is that normal? I revved it and it seemed to be fine - but then I wasn't moving, so maybe there wasn't much power there.

 

 

When you say keep an eye on the fuel level when the fault occurs, how do I do that? (Sorry, I'm not brilliant with cars.) I will check all the hoses when I'm looking at the MAF.

 

 

ps by CAT do you mean catalytic converter? Sorry if that's obvious, but I wasn't sure.

 

By looking at the fuel gauge when the fault occurs can eliminate whether its down to low fuel. Youd be surprised how many customers do that. Again, with low fuel, it can show up a weak fuel pump.

 

And yes by CAT i mean catalytic converter

 

Hi MikeyRS, I checked the MAF and one of the elements looks corroded, the other is clean. I was going to post up clear photos of it, but I can't get my memory card reader to work, so I will post them up next week when I get a new card reader, in case anybody else would benefit from it. I'm pretty sure the MAF is the cause of this problem now, I turned on the engine and then unplugged the MAF connector, it made no difference at all, so I presume that means the MAF wasn't working properly. I'll buy a new one and let you know if it fixes it!

Would I be right in thinking that it's worth spending £35-£40 for a brand new one off Ebay, rather than risking buying a used one for £10 - £15? I think the car only has a few years' life left before rust takes it over, but I know how important the MAF is now, so I think I should buy a new one. (If it was a £145 job I would try a used one first)

 

General rule of thumb is not buy second hand sensors, as you can never tell how worn they are, or even if they are working prop.

 

if youve found corrosion then thats a positive start, but it may not be the one and only cause of the running fault.

Edited September 16, 2013 by MikeyRS

[mosis]

Thanks Mikey, I will let you know what happens when I've fitted the new one, end of this week.

[mosis]

I've been trying to buy a new MAF from Ebay, but I can't seem to find my car model in all the options given - mine is a

1999T Ford Escort Flight 16V, 1597CC Petrol, 5DR, Manual (This is an Escort Mark 6)

 

but when I look at the auctions' listing of compatible cars, all I can find for 1999 is a MK VII [1995-2000] 1.6 16V, or Ford Escort 1999 '95 [1995-2005] Box, which only has a 1.8 engine option, not 1.6.

(Can I post up a link to one of the auctions, or isn't that allowed? I thought I'd ask before doing it.)

I guess the MAF sensors are pretty standard and I've found several new ones that look exactly like mine - maybe my car is a rare model and just isn't included in the options that Ebay gives sellers.

[mosis]

ps my car is a T reg, 1999 - so should it be a Mark 7, not a Mark 6? I think I got the information in my previous post from my insurer's website, when I entered the registration, so perhaps they are wrong.

[mosis]

Here are two photos of the old MAF - my new one will arrive on Monday, hopefully it will fix the problem:

 

(Click to magnify)

 

http://s16.postimg.org/xmevpd9yp/maf1.jpg

 

 

http://s10.postimg.org/ue0vucuat/maf2.jpg

[mosis]

Well, my new (used) MAF arrived yesterday and I fitted it, but it hasn't fixed the problem! (Although the car does seem to pull away better, and hasn't hesitate on pulling away yet, it still went 'jerky' when going up a hill and along the flat, for a few seconds, during my ten minute journey to work today). Maybe it isn't working properly either, I didn't have enough money to buy a new one, but Friday is pay day, so I might buy a new one then. I can always resell it as 'used once for testing' if it doesn't fix the problem!

 

Next I will check for vacuum leaks. Could it be the distributor? I haven't looked at that yet.

Edited September 24, 2013 by mosis

[cherrybeard]

Have you had any progress with your problem yet mate?

[mosis]

I bought a Draper EEC-IV reader that had been converted to use an OBD-II connector off Ebay, but all that happens when I plug it in is that the LED goes on, and doesn't flash. I've followed the instructions, turned it on while the ignition is on, but engine off, then tried ignition on and engine on, etc. Nothing but a steady LED.

 

Would I have any luck with the ForDiag software, and an OBD-II to USB lead off Ebay? I found a schematic on Google images which said that only pins 5 and 16 were connected to the USB cable of an OBD-II to USB cable, and on my car pins 3,4,5,7,11 and 16 are present, and I think pin 16 is power, and therefore 5 must be data?

I can get the USB cable for only £4 from China, so it wouldn't cost me much to try it out.

 

Still have the same problems as before, car still drives fine apart from that, never fails to start first time either, and I can't sell it with this fault, at least not without taking a loss.

[bongo]

fit some puma/fiesta dials and you'll have a onboard diagnostics which will throw up faults and codes.

[SteveB]

fit some puma/fiesta dials and you'll have a onboard diagnostics which will throw up faults and codes.

 

the codes you get are not from the ECU....

 

mosis: your car is not OBD-II. It's a Ford only system called DCL, so don't waste your money on the ones from ebay as they won't work.

[mosis]

the codes you get are not from the ECU....

 

mosis: your car is not OBD-II. It's a Ford only system called DCL, so don't waste your money on the ones from ebay as they won't work.

 

Hi Steve, do you still sell your code reader, or do you have the wiring plans for one? I can make one myself using an OBD-II connector and a USB cable, presumably, I'm fine with soldering.

[SteveB]

Hi Steve, do you still sell your code reader, or do you have the wiring plans for one? I can make one myself using an OBD-II connector and a USB cable, presumably, I'm fine with soldering.

 

I got messed around so much by people ordering these and then not paying that I stopped making them. If you PM me your location I can tell you if there is someone near you that has one.

 

My reader is actually a microprocessor housed inside a connector so it's a bit more than just a solder job.

 

http://158.143.56.200/~steve/reader_pcb.jpg

[mosis]

Just to keep you all informed, I unplugged the electrical cable from the lambda sensor, and went to Halfords to buy some penetrating oil, and the car ran perfectly! No hesitation when pulling away, no loss of power, no problems, so I'm convinced it must be the lambda sensor. I bought a new one off Ebay, the only problem I have now is that I can't get the old one off, I don't have an extension bar, and I'm using an open ended spanner, as I don't want to spend loads of money on tools. I think I'll just take it to the local garage and ask them to just remove the old one, I can screw in the new one temporarily by hand until I get home, then I can do the rewiring (as it comes with bare wires which have to be attached to the old connector from the original sensor).

[etrebus]

Just to keep you all informed, I unplugged the electrical cable from the lambda sensor, and went to Halfords to buy some penetrating oil, and the car ran perfectly! No hesitation when pulling away, no loss of power, no problems, so I'm convinced it must be the lambda sensor. I bought a new one off Ebay, the only problem I have now is that I can't get the old one off, I don't have an extension bar, and I'm using an open ended spanner, as I don't want to spend loads of money on tools. I think I'll just take it to the local garage and ask them to just remove the old one, I can screw in the new one temporarily by hand until I get home, then I can do the rewiring (as it comes with bare wires which have to be attached to the old connector from the original sensor).

why not use the ring end ?if its because the connerctor is to big then cut if off as you will be changing it anyway lol

[mosis]

It wasn't staying put because I was using the open ended spanner, I was hitting it as hard as I could with a lump hammer, but I think I need an extension pipe (I don't know what they are called, probably you can't buy them and have to make one) to fit over the spanner. Can any of you recommend where I'd get one, or how I can make one?

 

I'm most interested in why the car ran fine without the lambda sensor connected, I was expecting it to maybe perform really badly, as it wouldn't know how much oxygen was in the exhaust presumably, and would have to adjust the mixture based on some preset value?

 

I hope the local garage won't charge me more than a tenner for removing the old one, presumably it's a pretty easy job for them, which they do all the time (removing stubborn nuts and the like).