non PATS ecu

[HINRG]

hey everyone. i need some help on making a NON PATS ecu from a mondeo to fit my 1997 mk6 escort si 1.8L

 

can someone please help me, its so urgent.

 

and also which one is better DEEP DESK or DEWY? so i know which one to get when i put it in.

 

Cheers.

Cameron

Edited February 8, 2014 by HINRG

[scottybo]

makes no odds, they are all the same as far as im aware. the pin outs are slightly different to the escort ecu so you will need to change a few of the wires around

[HINRG]

makes no odds, they are all the same as far as im aware. the pin outs are slightly different to the escort ecu so you will need to change a few of the wires around

do you know what wires? are you able to show me a diagram ? please

[the_big_man]

http://www.escortevolution.co.uk/forums/in...showtopic=49026

[Stu]

Why do you want to do this?

[HINRG]

The ecu this guide tells you how to fit is a "non-pats" ecu. Mondeos did not have the pats system until mid-1994, so any 2 litre mondeo produced before this will have a suitable ecu. To verify if it is non-pats, have a look at the car keys - if they have a red square insert on the end of them, then they will have a chip inside and the ecu has pats, so find another car.

 

To start with you need an escort which originally had a zetec engine, with internal pats and a 60-pin EEC-IV ECU.

 

To determine whether or not you have internal pats, look up behind the glovebox. If you see a black box with many brown wires, then you have external pats and this will not work.

 

Tools required: 10mm spanner / socket and Long thin flathead screwdriver or pick.

 

So, you've done your 2litre conversion using the guide which Simon wrote. Link available here.

 

Disconnect the battery.

 

You now need to open up the casing which Ford put around your ecu. Remove the trim panel to the left of the passengers left foot. You will see a brass fixing similiar to a rivet at the bottom of it. Drill it out.

 

Take a small screwdriver and where you have just drilled out the fixing, prize the outer shield away, towards the centre of the car. At the same time pull the outer shield down so it slides. Once it has slid down, the bottom can be lifted up and it will hinge from the top, sufficiently to remove / install ecus.

 

Undo the 10mm bolt and remove the multiplug from the ecu. Remove some of the tape wrapping up the wires to give you more space.

 

Basically, you will be removing about 10 of the wires from this plug and repositioning them. It's not hard, just fiddly and you must be patient.

 

On the back of the ecu plug, you will be able to see numbers 1 to 20 along the bottom and 41 to 60 written at the top. 21 to 40 goes through the middle in the same ascending direction as the top and bottom.

 

To minimise the chances of getting the wires permanently muddled, I suggest you put a little piece of masking tape around each wire which you need to move and write its original number on it.

 

Right then, these are the wires which need to be moved:

 

Injector wires

pin no 12

pin no 15

pin no 42

pin no 54

 

Fuel pump wire

pin no 53

 

Octane adjust wire

pin no 29

 

aircon wire (needs doing even if you do not have aircon)

pin no 35

 

starter inhibit relay earth wire

pin no 32

 

pats wires,

pin no 39

pin no 22 (you may not have this wire!)

 

The end of the ecu multiplug has a large red plastic centre. Remove it carefully using a small pick or screwdriver. You will then be able to see a small plastic clip holding in each wire. Use the small pick to bend these clips back so you can pull the wire out from the back.

 

Remove the pats wires from 39 and 22 (if applicable). Tape these up securely and then tape them to the loom, out of the way. Their metal contacts must not touch each other.

 

Remove the air con wire (35) and tape it out the way as a temporary measure.

 

Remove the fuel pump wire (53) and re-fit in hole 22.

 

Now the injectors:

 

Inj. 1 - hole 15, remove and refit to hole 51

Inj. 2 - hole 12, remove and refit to hole 52

Inj. 3 - hole 54, remove and refit to hole 39

Inj. 4 - hole 42, remove and refit to hole 35

 

Remove the octane adjust wire (29) and refit to hole 42.

 

Remove the starter inhibit relay earth (32) and this needs to be connected to a new suitable earth. Look inside the A-pillar and you should find one easily enough. If you don't do this, the starter will not work!

 

Untape your aircon wire which you have already removed and re-fit to hole 54.

 

Re-fit the red plastic insert into the end of the ecu multiplug and bolt the plug back onto the ecu. I suggest you have the ecu already sitting in its shield before you re-fit the multiplug.

 

Lower the outer shield over the top of the ecu being careful not to trap any wires. Slide the shield up and it will lock in position. Check none of your wires are trapped or excessively tight. Unwrap more tape and try to seperate the wires slightly to give them some more play.

 

Reconnect the battery, cross your fingers, and try and start the car. If it does, good job!!

 

If it fails to start, for whatever reason, you need to look back over the whole guide. Refer to the masking tape as this will tell you where the wires originally came from.

 

You may have noticed that I have not included any wire colours in this guide. The reason being is that part of this research was done by another bloke and his wire colours did not match up to mine at all. The hole numbers are important, not the wire colours.

 

After this, I recommend you use the whole 2litre inlet system / fuel rail / injectors. I am currently doing this so will let you know if I have any problems.

 

I will post pictures next week. At the moment I am too busy getting the car ready for the Rolling Road event, but the text written should be quite sufficient to take you through this process.

 

_______________________

 

Finally, thanks to Marcus and Stu.

 

Marcus for emailing me some interesting information. Without that I would not have been able to get my car running this quickly.

 

Also many thanks to Stu, for originally convincing me to look again at using a 2litre ecu, when I had given up and booked a unichip!! Lost a £50 deposit on it, but nevermind. Thanks extend to the many hours of questions regarding the pats system, certainly not the most interesting of things to think about and discuss on a Friday night!

thanks heaps guys this helps alot

[Craig855S]

as stu said why are you doing this? Have you fitted a 2.0 engine? If not and youre doing it to get round the immobiliser in a 1.8 PATS escort then the 2.0 ECU is the wrong one. You want a non PATS 1.8 ECU which have different names (I ran one as i done a 1.8 transplant) but i cant for the life of me remember what its name was

[HINRG]

as stu said why are you doing this? Have you fitted a 2.0 engine? If not and youre doing it to get round the immobiliser in a 1.8 PATS escort then the 2.0 ECU is the wrong one. You want a non PATS 1.8 ECU which have different names (I ran one as i done a 1.8 transplant) but i cant for the life of me remember what its name was

no i havent fitted a 2.0. this is my first conversion a look at my 1.8 ECU and the code said JUMP is this non PATS?

[scottybo]

if ur just trying to get around the immobilizer, go and find an early mk1 mondeo 1.8 ecu. they had no security whatsoever lol

[HINRG]

if ur just trying to get around the immobilizer, go and find an early mk1 mondeo 1.8 ecu. they had no security whatsoever lol

will that ECU work with a 2.0 silvertop ? and do i have to change wires or is it just plug and play ?

[scottybo]

U said u havent changed the engine. No in order to make a 2l work properly. U will need a 2l ecu. Deep, desk or dewy ecu code