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alarm issues


shawdreamer
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ok so as mentioned in my SUYM thread Ive recently had to add a more efficient alarm after some nobjockeys tried to have off with my motor.

 

anyway after receiving the entire kit in the post I obviously started to get to grips with the installation instructions which much to my delight were made up of paragraphs of terribly translated script.

 

playing by ear and past experience I was able to fit the alarm system itself, along with its ultrasonics, door pins and shock & vibe sensors so once again my car was secure atleast.

 

However troubles started when fitting the full closure system that is supplied with the kit, dispite wiring it as the diagrams indicated for the life of me I cant get it to work.

 

below are the circuit diagrams for both alarm and full clossure unit.

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25313.jpg

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25314.jpg

 

as said the alarm functions perfectly and all its features are active and working, the only issue Im having is getting the FCU to roll up the windows on alarm activation, the only thing I can seem to see that might be the issue is the final connections to the window motor which in the diagram seems rather simplistic but as anyone will know whos dealt with a escort electric window system the two wires running to the motor alternate between positive and negative dependant on wether the motors lowering or raising the window.

 

My concern is that the FCU I have is not suited to the two wire system escorts use?

 

any help will be muchly appreciated!

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ok so as mentioned in my SUYM thread Ive recently had to add a more efficient alarm after some nobjockeys tried to have off with my motor.

 

anyway after receiving the entire kit in the post I obviously started to get to grips with the installation instructions which much to my delight were made up of paragraphs of terribly translated script.

 

playing by ear and past experience I was able to fit the alarm system itself, along with its ultrasonics, door pins and shock & vibe sensors so once again my car was secure atleast.

 

However troubles started when fitting the full closure system that is supplied with the kit, dispite wiring it as the diagrams indicated for the life of me I cant get it to work.

 

below are the circuit diagrams for both alarm and full clossure unit.

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25313.jpg

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25314.jpg

 

as said the alarm functions perfectly and all its features are active and working, the only issue Im having is getting the FCU to roll up the windows on alarm activation, the only thing I can seem to see that might be the issue is the final connections to the window motor which in the diagram seems rather simplistic but as anyone will know whos dealt with a escort electric window system the two wires running to the motor alternate between positive and negative dependant on wether the motors lowering or raising the window.

 

My concern is that the FCU I have is not suited to the two wire system escorts use?

 

any help will be muchly appreciated!

were have you connected the alarm to the switch or at the door loom in the foot well

 

 

also can you hear the relays clicking

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were have you connected the alarm to the switch or at the door loom in the foot well

 

what part of the alarm are you referring too?

 

the main power feeds to the alarm&FCU are wired to a solid earth and a fusebox input (pre fusebox obviously)

 

the door lock triggers are wired into the aftermarket CL master solonoid trigger wires (as they should be)

 

both the ACC's are wired to position 1 on the ignition barrel (which is the ACCessory switched live)

 

the FCU signal points are wired into the wire that is live when windows are raised (as the diagram "sorta" shows, its worth note that the electric wondows are a aftermarket add-on however they function and are wired almost identical to ford OEM so this shouldnt be an additional issue)

 

also can you hear the relays clicking.

 

aye the FCU relays fire and the wiring is correct to diagram

 

what make & model is the total closure kit?

 

both units (alarm&FCU) are made by the same company (Aolin) and designed to work in harmony with each other, as said the FCU relays respond to the alarm signal but I suspect the signal wiring to the windows to be suspect.

 

in the window box is there a little switch that changes the output feed from pos to neg etc

 

If you look closely at the FCU diagram you will see 3 wires in the top left corner that allow you to set the signal wires to either positive or negative via connecting them together as required

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were have you connected the alarm to the switch or at the door loom in the foot well

 

what part of the alarm are you referring too?

 

the main power feeds to the alarm&FCU are wired to a solid earth and a fusebox input (pre fusebox obviously)

 

the door lock triggers are wired into the aftermarket CL master solonoid trigger wires (as they should be)

 

both the ACC's are wired to position 1 on the ignition barrel (which is the ACCessory switched live)

 

the FCU signal points are wired into the wire that is live when windows are raised (as the diagram "sorta" shows, its worth note that the electric wondows are a aftermarket add-on however they function and are wired almost identical to ford OEM so this shouldnt be an additional issue)

 

also can you hear the relays clicking.

 

aye the FCU relays fire and the wiring is correct to diagram

 

what make & model is the total closure kit?

 

both units (alarm&FCU) are made by the same company (Aolin) and designed to work in harmony with each other, as said the FCU relays respond to the alarm signal but I suspect the signal wiring to the windows to be suspect.

 

in the window box is there a little switch that changes the output feed from pos to neg etc

 

If you look closely at the FCU diagram you will see 3 wires in the top left corner that allow you to set the signal wires to either positive or negative via connecting them together as required

 

what Id have suspected is that the signalling wires from the FCU would be a switched live and a negative which would then be wired into the appropriate window wiring and simply allow the FCU to create a circuit without the use of the switches and wind the motor up on activation (not unlike a simple circuit setup in "parallel" as appose to the "series" type setup the diagram indicates).....its all very confuddling tbh :rolleyes:

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how i did it on the two front windows standard. i have a 4 window module i only use two i connected my wires in between the switch up wires at the switch cut the wire and fit one to one side and the over to the over side this breaks the circuit. now what i can see is that its the same as your diagram .the module will now supply the power to the window via the relays .thay are twine pole relays when the relays are at rest thay will supply power to the windows as nomal so you can use them as nomal but when you switch the ignition off the module should have a permanent live that allows the module to close the windows (in mine there was a adjuster that i had to ajust for the pressure stop also there was a jumber to switch the neg/pos trigger)

 

so if you can hear the relays clicking one by one then the trigger seems to be ok. so i would look at were and how you have connected the wires to the switch as i side i just cut the up wire from the switch and connected to there

 

i dont know if this makes sence or is of any help

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how i did it on the two front windows standard. i have a 4 window module i only use two i connected my wires in between the switch up wires at the switch cut the wire and fit one to one side and the over to the over side this breaks the circuit. now what i can see is that its the same as your diagram .the module will now supply the power to the window via the relays .thay are twine pole relays when the relays are at rest thay will supply power to the windows as nomal so you can use them as nomal but when you switch the ignition off the module should have a permanent live that allows the module to close the windows (in mine there was a adjuster that i had to ajust for the pressure stop also there was a jumber to switch the neg/pos trigger)

 

so if you can hear the relays clicking one by one then the trigger seems to be ok. so i would look at were and how you have connected the wires to the switch as i side i just cut the up wire from the switch and connected to there

 

i dont know if this makes sence or is of any help

 

 

to some extent it makes sense yes, but.....thats how I connected as described already :pancake:

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how i did it on the two front windows standard. i have a 4 window module i only use two i connected my wires in between the switch up wires at the switch cut the wire and fit one to one side and the over to the over side this breaks the circuit. now what i can see is that its the same as your diagram .the module will now supply the power to the window via the relays .thay are twine pole relays when the relays are at rest thay will supply power to the windows as nomal so you can use them as nomal but when you switch the ignition off the module should have a permanent live that allows the module to close the windows (in mine there was a adjuster that i had to ajust for the pressure stop also there was a jumber to switch the neg/pos trigger)

 

so if you can hear the relays clicking one by one then the trigger seems to be ok. so i would look at were and how you have connected the wires to the switch as i side i just cut the up wire from the switch and connected to there

 

i dont know if this makes sence or is of any help

 

 

to some extent it makes sense yes, but.....thats how I connected as described already :pancake:

is there a permanent live ie stays live with the ignition off

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how i did it on the two front windows standard. i have a 4 window module i only use two i connected my wires in between the switch up wires at the switch cut the wire and fit one to one side and the over to the over side this breaks the circuit. now what i can see is that its the same as your diagram .the module will now supply the power to the window via the relays .thay are twine pole relays when the relays are at rest thay will supply power to the windows as nomal so you can use them as nomal but when you switch the ignition off the module should have a permanent live that allows the module to close the windows (in mine there was a adjuster that i had to ajust for the pressure stop also there was a jumber to switch the neg/pos trigger)

 

so if you can hear the relays clicking one by one then the trigger seems to be ok. so i would look at were and how you have connected the wires to the switch as i side i just cut the up wire from the switch and connected to there

 

i dont know if this makes sence or is of any help

 

 

to some extent it makes sense yes, but.....thats how I connected as described already :pancake:

is there a permanent live ie stays live with the ignition off

 

 

aye ther FCU and Alarm have direct lives to a permenant live and isnt ignition dependant.

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how i did it on the two front windows standard. i have a 4 window module i only use two i connected my wires in between the switch up wires at the switch cut the wire and fit one to one side and the over to the over side this breaks the circuit. now what i can see is that its the same as your diagram .the module will now supply the power to the window via the relays .thay are twine pole relays when the relays are at rest thay will supply power to the windows as nomal so you can use them as nomal but when you switch the ignition off the module should have a permanent live that allows the module to close the windows (in mine there was a adjuster that i had to ajust for the pressure stop also there was a jumber to switch the neg/pos trigger)

 

so if you can hear the relays clicking one by one then the trigger seems to be ok. so i would look at were and how you have connected the wires to the switch as i side i just cut the up wire from the switch and connected to there

 

i dont know if this makes sence or is of any help

 

 

to some extent it makes sense yes, but.....thats how I connected as described already :pancake:

is there a permanent live ie stays live with the ignition off

 

 

aye ther FCU and Alarm have direct lives to a permenant live and isnt ignition dependant.have you tryed switching the

have you tryed switching the wires to the switch

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how i did it on the two front windows standard. i have a 4 window module i only use two i connected my wires in between the switch up wires at the switch cut the wire and fit one to one side and the over to the over side this breaks the circuit. now what i can see is that its the same as your diagram .the module will now supply the power to the window via the relays .thay are twine pole relays when the relays are at rest thay will supply power to the windows as nomal so you can use them as nomal but when you switch the ignition off the module should have a permanent live that allows the module to close the windows (in mine there was a adjuster that i had to ajust for the pressure stop also there was a jumber to switch the neg/pos trigger)

 

so if you can hear the relays clicking one by one then the trigger seems to be ok. so i would look at were and how you have connected the wires to the switch as i side i just cut the up wire from the switch and connected to there

 

i dont know if this makes sence or is of any help

 

 

to some extent it makes sense yes, but.....thats how I connected as described already :pancake:

is there a permanent live ie stays live with the ignition off

 

 

aye ther FCU and Alarm have direct lives to a permenant live and isnt ignition dependant.have you tryed switching the

have you tryed switching the wires to the switch

 

 

if you mean on the window loom then yes

 

if you mean switching the FCU from positive to negative trigger then also yes.... often resulting with a blown fuse.

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how i did it on the two front windows standard. i have a 4 window module i only use two i connected my wires in between the switch up wires at the switch cut the wire and fit one to one side and the over to the over side this breaks the circuit. now what i can see is that its the same as your diagram .the module will now supply the power to the window via the relays .thay are twine pole relays when the relays are at rest thay will supply power to the windows as nomal so you can use them as nomal but when you switch the ignition off the module should have a permanent live that allows the module to close the windows (in mine there was a adjuster that i had to ajust for the pressure stop also there was a jumber to switch the neg/pos trigger)

 

so if you can hear the relays clicking one by one then the trigger seems to be ok. so i would look at were and how you have connected the wires to the switch as i side i just cut the up wire from the switch and connected to there

 

i dont know if this makes sence or is of any help

 

 

to some extent it makes sense yes, but.....thats how I connected as described already :pancake:

is there a permanent live ie stays live with the ignition off

 

 

aye ther FCU and Alarm have direct lives to a permenant live and isnt ignition dependant.have you tryed switching the

have you tryed switching the wires to the switch

you should have to live wires one the gos to the acc and one that connects the battery perminent live.

do you have a power window jumber on the module its in side the module. mine look almost the same as yours and when i got it i had to switch it to + power output it came set as neg output

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its hard to see the diagram but am i right in saying that the -/+ output is on the loom its self

 

closer magnification so you can see more clearly

http://www.evo-host.co.uk/getimg/25324.jpg

 

as you can see the Unit has entirely independant power.

 

as for the "jumpers" you'll see the three upper left wires work as that function (pos.neg unit signal).

 

the orange wire isnt used as the FCU is created to work with both negative signal alarms and positive, you simply use which ever wire suits your alarm system (yellow- in my case)

 

the live feed is connected to a permenant live fusebox feed and the earth is connected at a good earth point

 

the brown is connected to position 1 of the ignition barrel.

 

its all very simple and makes perfect sense......... until you come to the signal wiring itself, which is why its the most suspect to me.

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