heater

[demented]

How about that for irony, I took the resistor out today and it works fine! Put the power probe over it and checked continuity and current. The only thing I can think of now is a dodgyy switch, which will be changed on monday (new on arrived today but I didn't get time to fit). It's wierd that on incoming air, power 1 works when the ac is on but not when the ac is off. Hopefully the new switch should sort it! that powerprobe is amazing - why have I not bought one before??????

 

Pleased you like the recommendation for the power probe.

 

Although, it's not too expensive to replace the switch, especially with a used one, you should be able to confirm the switch is at fault by using the power probe to replicate the actions of the switch by probing the plug of the switch with the power probe.

 

If the blower motor fails to operate as expected via the switch but with the switch removed and probing the plugs with the power probe, it's possible the fault could be at the fuse box.

 

I've since read elsewhere, that when the fuse box begins to fail, it's the blower motor speeds that play up first.

[Escort Si-130]

Happened to me some years ago. It was the resistor block which is located in the scuttle panel, behind the engine bay. Mine never worked on blower speed 1. When changed it worked, was so happy after.[

quote name='Rockerrob666' date='Jan 1 2013, 11:51 PM' post='1510749']

I have a mk6 escort with the aircon heater (if you can call it aircon, more like de-humidifyer) but when I put it to setting 1, i can't tell whether it's on or not. setting 2 and 3 are on but they have no guts to them, not what I would expect them to perform like. Also when I put the aircon on, it retards the engine noticably.

 

the main issue is with setting 1 atm. is everyone else's like this that it seems not to be working when on setting 1? do I have a knackered heater which needs replacing? or could it just be the solenoid in the switch?

 

quite tempted just to rip it out and replace but if they're all like this then I won't bother, just seems a little weak to me.

 

cheers

[Rockerrob666]

I've since read elsewhere, that when the fuse box begins to fail, it's the blower motor speeds that play up first.

 

don't give me nightmares like that!!

 

I've found where I can get the resistor new if needed: http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_escor...75253_c_551.htm

 

i can check in a bit, but would there be more than one fuse for the heater then, by what your saying?? will try that test on the wiring when I get a chance to get in there. what I forgot t do on the resistor when I was there, was check the resistance across each stage with the multimeter, was too content and happy playing with the new toy Although I had a current passing through and the power probe showed continuity, see above that the current could have jumped the resistor if too large. but I haven't experienced any intermittant working, so I don't think so.

 

Just to give a bit more info, I opened the dash vents and the flow of air on setting 1 is no different to normal flow of air when motor setting is at 'off' position, I only get an increase in airflow at setting 2.

[Escort Si-130]

Is that the correct part for your car though. It shows as 2000-2001. Which were possibly for the last mk6 Escort on W reg. If not then it could be for the Escort Van which I think was sold until 2004.

 

I've since read elsewhere, that when the fuse box begins to fail, it's the blower motor speeds that play up first.

 

don't give me nightmares like that!!

 

I've found where I can get the resistor new if needed: http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_escor...75253_c_551.htm

 

i can check in a bit, but would there be more than one fuse for the heater then, by what your saying?? will try that test on the wiring when I get a chance to get in there. what I forgot t do on the resistor when I was there, was check the resistance across each stage with the multimeter, was too content and happy playing with the new toy Although I had a current passing through and the power probe showed continuity, see above that the current could have jumped the resistor if too large. but I haven't experienced any intermittant working, so I don't think so.

 

Just to give a bit more info, I opened the dash vents and the flow of air on setting 1 is no different to normal flow of air when motor setting is at 'off' position, I only get an increase in airflow at setting 2.

[demented]

Using the power probe you can power up the blower motor by bypassing the resistor pack, this will confirm if the motor is operating at full speed.

 

There's no need to test with a multimeter, just use the power probe.

Without unplugging the existing resistor pack plug, probe the wires at the rear of the plug and provide a live to each terminal, one at a time with the power probe, the blower motor should operate at the appropriate speed of each terminal, thus bypassing the switch, if blower motor fails to operate via the resistor pack and you've already confirmed the blower motor operates independently of the resistor pack, then the resisitor pack is the cause.

 

However, should the blower motor operate as expected when providing the terminals with a live via the power probe, this confirms the fault lies either within the loom from the resistor pack to the switch or the switch its self.

 

So, to eliminate a fault with the loom, carry out the same test on the plug to the rear of the switch and provide each terminal with a live via the power probe, this time, you may be able to carry the test with the switch unplugged, to be honest, I can't remember whether the switch provides an earth to the resistor pack or not, but it won't do any harm to carry out test without unplugging the switch.

 

If the blower motor operates as expected and on all speeds, the switch is at fault.

 

I'm unsure whether there's more than one fuse, there's one in the internal fuse box and maybe one under the bonnet, but as you are currenlty seeing some patial operation of the blower motor and air con light illuminating, that rules out a blown fuse.

[Rockerrob666]

Is that the correct part for your car though. It shows as 2000-2001. Which were possibly for the last mk6 Escort on W reg. If not then it could be for the Escort Van which I think was sold until 2004.

 

I've since read elsewhere, that when the fuse box begins to fail, it's the blower motor speeds that play up first.

 

don't give me nightmares like that!!

 

I've found where I can get the resistor new if needed: http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_escor...75253_c_551.htm

 

i can check in a bit, but would there be more than one fuse for the heater then, by what your saying?? will try that test on the wiring when I get a chance to get in there. what I forgot t do on the resistor when I was there, was check the resistance across each stage with the multimeter, was too content and happy playing with the new toy Although I had a current passing through and the power probe showed continuity, see above that the current could have jumped the resistor if too large. but I haven't experienced any intermittant working, so I don't think so.

 

Just to give a bit more info, I opened the dash vents and the flow of air on setting 1 is no different to normal flow of air when motor setting is at 'off' position, I only get an increase in airflow at setting 2.

 

hi, yup, I have a 2001 Y reg, so this is right personal plate makes it look like an S reg.

 

 

Using the power probe you can power up the blower motor by bypassing the resistor pack, this will confirm if the motor is operating at full speed.

 

There's no need to test with a multimeter, just use the power probe.

Without unplugging the existing resistor pack plug, probe the wires at the rear of the plug and provide a live to each terminal, one at a time with the power probe, the blower motor should operate at the appropriate speed of each terminal, thus bypassing the switch, if blower motor fails to operate via the resistor pack and you've already confirmed the blower motor operates independently of the resistor pack, then the resisitor pack is the cause.

 

However, should the blower motor operate as expected when providing the terminals with a live via the power probe, this confirms the fault lies either within the loom from the resistor pack to the switch or the switch its self.

 

So, to eliminate a fault with the loom, carry out the same test on the plug to the rear of the switch and provide each terminal with a live via the power probe, this time, you may be able to carry the test with the switch unplugged, to be honest, I can't remember whether the switch provides an earth to the resistor pack or not, but it won't do any harm to carry out test without unplugging the switch.

 

If the blower motor operates as expected and on all speeds, the switch is at fault.

 

I'm unsure whether there's more than one fuse, there's one in the internal fuse box and maybe one under the bonnet, but as you are currenlty seeing some patial operation of the blower motor and air con light illuminating, that rules out a blown fuse.

 

cool, cheers for that. I took the resistor pack out and tested continuity (light came on on the powerprobe), I then later read that if the current is strong enough it can jump the resistor - so sort of makes that test obsolete without controlling the current . on the resistor pack, you have 3 wires on one side of the resistors and 1 on the other - would i be right in saying it's 3 in and one out to the motor? haven't been able to physically see the motors wire input location yet.

Edited February 1, 2013 by Rockerrob666

[demented]

If you're using the power probe I recommended, once both battery clips are connected to the appropriate terminals of the cars battery, when probing wires or electrical terminals, the LED on the probe will illuminate red when a live has been detected (Positive) or illuminate green when an earth (Negative) has been detected.

 

Some power probes also emmit a continuous beep upon detecting a live (Positive) and maybe a On and Off beep on detecting an earth .

 

When used in such a fashion, its like using as a test lamp but the a power probe incorporates a safety feature to prevent damage to the vehicles electrical components.

 

I don't believe the power probe is able to detect continuity.

 

When used as a power probe, the wire or a terminals can be probed and although the probe detects an Earth, the push button of the probe can be pressed forward to provide that wire or terminal with a live feed (Positive) and when doing so, will normally provide that electrical component with a power feed to operate it.

 

If the wire or terminal is a permanent earth and not a switched positive which rest at ground (Earth), the power probe will trip out to prevent damage.

 

The power probe push switch can also be pressed backwards to provide an earth (Negative) feed.

 

It's a long time since I tested a resistor pack but I would assume it is 3 wires in and 1 out.

 

Without disconnection or removal of the resistor pack,  if the 1 out wire is probed with the  blower motor switched off, the power probe should detect an Earth, if so, provide that wire with a live via the power probe, doing so should operate the blower motor, bypassing the switch and resistor pack.

 

If all's well and the blower motor operates, do the same with the 3 in wires, one at a time, which should power the blower motor at three different speeds.

[Rockerrob666]

cool, thats what I was thinking but wasn't sure if it would have worked right, cheers for confirming that for me, will give it a probing this afternoon (and the motor, boom boom) ah, according to the instruction book on the powerprobe - to check continuity: Hook up battery clips, apply ground clip to one end, apply probe to the other end, LED on = continuity. It's basically the same method as testing for voltages but it can detect without a current being present (it add it's own) don't know if this is a new thing but, cool eh? I think the only thing it can't do is check resistance accurately (and cook - unless that another feature I haven't found yet ). Whilst it checks for breaks, it won't show damage like a multimeter would (showing increased resistance through a chosen section), but it is absolutely wonderful in every other way, no more having to rig up circuits selotaped to a 12v battery on the dining room table to check componenets i love it now hoping that I can reach the resistor pack without having to remove the scuttle panel, fingers crossed.

 

I'm assuming that I connect the earth clip to the earth location of the motor on the car body?

Edited February 2, 2013 by Rockerrob666

[demented]

I think continuity is possibly being described differently to how I understand it.

I don't believe the power probe in normal operation will detect continuity in the samer manner as a multimeter.

 

The power probe will confirm a live or a earth is being detected at one point or another.

 

I wouldn't worry so much about checking components for resistance, as in most instances a component is not operating, so its just a matter of tracing the faults, so firstly, probe and power up the suspectected component, if it fails to operate, replace, however, if the component does operate via the power probe then the fault lies elsewhere, so then confirm a switch has all appropriate feeds and so on.

 

However, if checking an engine sensor, such a component can't be powered up via the power probe to confirm its operation, in such circumstances, the probe will only detect if the sensor has its appropriate feeds and a output but not its resistance.

 

To use the power probe, just connect both battery clamps to the cars own battery and begin probing, no need to use the crocodile clip earth of the power probe, unless you have removed a component and wish to power it up, so it requires its own earth.

 

With the power probe disconnected from the cars battery, you can earth the power probe via the croc clip and use the probe as a test lamp.

 

When testing the resistor pack and blower motor or any other electrical component, with the power probe connected to the cars battery,  just probe the wires or terminals with the power probe and apply the relevant feeds to confirm operation, no need to use the croc clip earth as the components should all be earthed via the car electrical circuit.

 

If you find a wire or terminal that registers nothing on the power probe, this could be a broken feed, either a live or a earth, so just provide the appropriate feed via the power probe, one or the other, a live or an earth and whichever feed powers it up, there lies the problem, which requires further detection as to why.

[demented]

Once the resistor pack is fitted back in place in the car and reconnected, if you probe the wires or terminals and power up the terminal you believe is the out wire, this should operate the blower motor at full speed.

 

All other terminal when powered via the power probe, should operate a varying speeds, if not the resistor pack is at fault.

[Rockerrob666]

cool, cheers

[Rockerrob666]

Once the resistor pack is fitted back in place in the car and reconnected, if you probe the wires or terminals and power up the terminal you believe is the out wire, this should operate the blower motor at full speed.

 

All other terminal when powered via the power probe, should operate a varying speeds, if not the resistor pack is at fault.

hi,

 

Right: just had a long look at the car, I've taken the dash control switch out and applied the power probe across the terminals (yes it does run a negative from the centre pin) no change in performance. I applied the power probe across the pins on top of the resistor and listened very carefully:

 

stage 1: sounds very very quite but does run.

stage 2: jumps into life, loadsa spins

stage 3: was having to look for an anchor to hold the car down !

 

I then put a multimeter across the terminals at the resistor plugs and:

stage 1: 2.3ohms

stage 2: 0.6ohms

stage 3: 0.3ohms

 

whilst I would like to compare these figures to another resistor pack, the heavy increase in resistance for stage 1 over 2 and 3, I would say that although the current is passing, the resistor is shot and that's why I'm getting heavily reduced power!

 

Whilst it still technically is working, whilst driving, if I open the dash vents the rate of air flow is no different between off and stage 1.

 

what do you think?

[demented]

If the blower motor operates at 3 different speeds when a live (positive) is applied to the input terminals of the resistor pack via the power probe, that tells me that the resistor pack is operating as it should, thus providing three speeds via a reduce voltage or current through the resistors pack.

 

So, with the blower motor operating switch unplugged, apply a live (positive) to each terminal of the plug (not the switch), doing so should operate the blower motor at three speeds, you may need to earth the center pin of the plug with the crocodile clip of the power probe but try without doing so first.

 

If three speeds of the blower motor operate via the power probe with the operating switched unplugged, like Stoney said earlier, I'd say the fault lies with the switch its self and not the resistor pack.

 

I wouldnt bother comparing resistance of the resistor pack, unless it's for your own curiosity.

[Rockerrob666]

If the blower motor operates at 3 different speeds when a live (positive) is applied to the input terminals of the resistor pack via the power probe, that tells me that the resistor pack is operating as it should, thus providing three speeds via a reduce voltage or current through the resistors pack.

 

So, with the blower motor operating switch unplugged, apply a live (positive) to each terminal of the plug (not the switch), doing so should operate the blower motor at three speeds, you may need to earth the center pin of the plug with the crocodile clip of the power probe but try without doing so first.

 

If three speeds of the blower motor operate via the power probe with the operating switched unplugged, like Stoney said earlier, I'd say the fault lies with the switch its self and not the resistor pack.

 

I wouldnt bother comparing resistance of the resistor pack, unless it's for your own curiosity.

cheers,

 

I was wondering if the jump in resistance would have anything to do with it not working properly? I put the powerprobe across at the switch connections (in the dash with the switch off) and the result is the same as putting the power probe across the 3 points at the coil pack. I think the problem that I've found is the jump in resistance for stage 1. Could it be that the resistance is higher than it should be and therefore not providing enough power to the motor. When I hear it working with the powerprobe at stage 1 (both at the coilpack and at the switch connection) it is rotating the motor at a very very slow speed (tbh it only just gets it moving).

 

I think the reason if anyone would be willing to do comparison figures for me across the coilpack, it might show that the resistance in stage 1 is too high and therefore the resistor is preventing enough current to the coilpack for it to work properly.

 

I have put a new switch on and that has made no improvement.

 

I've done all the relevant tests that you suggested and I'm believing that my problem lies with this resistor for stage 1.

[Escort Si-130]

It cannot be the switch, he said it does power up but very slow. If it was the switch then it would not spin at all. It is the resistor.

If the blower motor operates at 3 different speeds when a live (positive) is applied to the input terminals of the resistor pack via the power probe, that tells me that the resistor pack is operating as it should, thus providing three speeds via a reduce voltage or current through the resistors pack.

 

So, with the blower motor operating switch unplugged, apply a live (positive) to each terminal of the plug (not the switch), doing so should operate the blower motor at three speeds, you may need to earth the center pin of the plug with the crocodile clip of the power probe but try without doing so first.

 

If three speeds of the blower motor operate via the power probe with the operating switched unplugged, like Stoney said earlier, I'd say the fault lies with the switch its self and not the resistor pack.

 

I wouldnt bother comparing resistance of the resistor pack, unless it's for your own curiosity.