heater

[demented]

I'm getting very confused by this.

 

I thought it was said that the blower motor operated on 3 progressive speeds when each input terminal of the resistor pack was provided with a live via the power probe ?

 

By providing each input terminals of the resistor pack with a live from the power probe, doing so should operate the blower motor at three relavent speeds but only if it has been confirmed that the blower motor is operational.

 

If the power probe operates the blower motor via the resistor pack, operating as expected, I'd say the resistor pack is not at fault and the fault lies elsewhere, next most obvious possibilities, the switch or loom from the switch to the resistor pack.

 

When the output terminal of the resistor pack is provided with a live via the power probe, the blower motor should operate at one continuous speed, if not; then either the blower motor fuse has blown or the blower motor itself is at fault or failed.

 

However, if the blower motor is not operating at three progressive speeds when each input terminal of the resistor pack is provided with a live via the power probe, then it's more than likely the resistor pack which has failed.

[Rockerrob666]

I'm getting very confused by this.

 

I thought it was said that the blower motor operated on 3 progressive speeds when each input terminal of the resistor pack was provided with a live via the power probe ?

 

By providing each input terminals of the resistor pack with a live from the power probe, doing so should operate the blower motor at three relavent speeds but only if it has been confirmed that the blower motor is operational.

 

If the power probe operates the blower motor via the resistor pack, operating as expected, I'd say the resistor pack is not at fault and the fault lies elsewhere, next most obvious possibilities, the switch or loom from the switch to the resistor pack.

 

When the output terminal of the resistor pack is provided with a live via the power probe, the blower motor should operate at one continuous speed, if not; then either the blower motor fuse has blown or the blower motor itself is at fault or failed.

 

However, if the blower motor is not operating at three progressive speeds when each input terminal of the resistor pack is provided with a live via the power probe, then it's more than likely the resistor pack which has failed.

 

Hi,

 

sorry if I've not made any sense?? i think what I'm trying to describe is that: Although the motor turn when I apply power across the resistor pack at stage 1, the speed in which it turns isn't enough to force any air - imagine a fan that, although moves, is only turning at 1 revolution a minute (exageration prob. but just to explain what I mean), whilst It's still technically working, it's not spinning fast enough to do anything. At stage 2, the fan then speed up to 120 revolutions a minute and at stage 3, 180revolutions a min. thats basically the problem I have. I think that whilst the resistor for stage 1 is technically allowing a current to pass, the current isn't big enough to spin the motor at it's proper speed.

 

I tried what you said and put the power probe at:

 

infront of resistor: heater motor powered up to full speed

behind stage 1 resistor: hummed but very very faintly

behind stage 2: wirred up nicely to approx 2/3power as I would expect

behind stage 3: wirred up to full power

at pin for stage 1 with switch removed: hummed but very faintly

at pin for stage 2 with switch removed: wirred at approx 2/3 power

at pin for stage 3 with switch removed: wirred at full power.

with switch on at stage 1: hummed but very faintly

with switch on at stage 2: wirred at 2/3 power

with switch on at stage 3: wirred at full power

 

at normal operating levels, I would expect:

off:off

stage 1: 1/3 power

stage 2: 2/3 power

stage 3: 3/3 power

 

from the sounds of it and what the resistance is showing, I think I'm getting:

stage 1: 1/100 power

stage 2: 2/3 power

stage 3: 3/3 power

 

these results where the same for every test at each stage of the system.

 

The resistance figures I got where:

 

stage 1: 2.3ohms

stage 2: 0.6ohms

stage 3: 0.3ohms these where taken at the pins for the resistor pack across each stage resistor.

 

I believe it should be about:

stage 1: 0.9ohms

stage 2: 0.6ohms

stage 3: 0.3ohms

 

this would provide an equal stepped power increase in the motor at each stage. I beleive this is why stage 1 is doing jack when I turn it on in the car, whilst it is technically getting power, it's no where near enough current to do anything or push any air over it's natural flow when the cars moving.

 

I'll be honest in that I didn't get a chance to get resistance figures from each stage, as I put the dash back together before I thought to do it - I was having too much fun playing with the powerprobe seeing what I could get to operate It really did help as it allowed me to test all the stages without the engine running, masking any operation sounds of the heater motor. going to be using it a lot to help identify problems and where they lay. purchase of the year I think.

 

Gonna replace the resistor pack and see if that does anything - found a new one on ebay or the one mentiond above if I don't get there i time. gonna have to wait till payday though. It's my anniversary today, valantines day on thursday and the missus' birthday next sunday - she planned that one well!!!!

[demented]

I'm pleased we finally got to the bottom of this and have now determined the fault lies with the resistor pack.

As I've said earlier, I wouldn't bother so much comparing resistance, if a component doesn't operated as it should when applied with the relevant power source via the power probe, it's broke and normally it's easier and cheaper to just replace.

 

The only time to compare that resistance is within a specified range, is when testing components that show no obvious signs of operation when applied with power.

 

After all, If a bulb fails to operate when power applied directly via the power probe, then it's shot, so just replace.

Its blown resistance is of no relevance, same applies with the resistors pack.

 

 

Happy Anniversary

[Rockerrob666]

I'm pleased we finally got to the bottom of this and have now determined the fault lies with the resistor pack.

As I've said earlier, I wouldn't bother so much comparing resistance, if a component doesn't operated as it should when applied with the relevant power source via the power probe, it's broke and normally it's easier and cheaper to just replace.

 

The only time to compare that resistance is within a specified range, is when testing components that show no obvious signs of operation when applied with power.

 

After all, If a bulb fails to operate when power applied directly via the power probe, then it's shot, so just replace.

Its blown resistance is of no relevance, same applies with the resistors pack.

 

 

Happy Anniversary

 

 

cheers dude

 

yeah, I know what you mean, I'm just paranoid - i think what I'm worried about is that stage 1 is that p1ssy on all escorts, but sayin that, I remember my last escort being pretty decent and you said earlier at the beginning that yours was pretty decent at stage 1, So I think I've found the problem, I'm just overcautious and in my line of work if you can't prove something beyond a reasonable doubt, then people aren't going to spend a butt load of money on things (H&S advisor for construction industry). Why is it I always seem to solve things just after i needed them??? haha, weathers warmin up now. at least it'll be working properly come the summer when I need a cool breeze in the car.

 

Can't thank you enough for the assist and guidance on this one dude. will post when I get the replacement and find out it wasn't that and it still doesn't work properly

[demented]

Well, now I know your reason for the resistance figures, it all makes sense now.

 

The blower motor on both my Escorts is a very faint hum when on stage one, only noticeable when I actually listen for it with the radio off and my hand against the air vent but feels suficient.

 

Stage two is obvious more powerful and can be heard.

 

Stage three is very loud and poweful, can't be missed.

 

When fan switch is on the recirculate setting for the air con, all three speeds are less powerful but sufficent. On stage one, cold air can be felt within the interior but still only a faint hum can be heard.

 

I'm sorry I'm unable to compare the resistor pack resistance for you; but one of my Escorts is at a different address and the other one is in bits in a very confined garage.