scottg17 Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 what did you expect? the above! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottg17 Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 (edited) The offending rusty crustiness no doubt more to be found.......Very well hidden in bits with filler and fibreglass and so on... its bad! but....... the show must go on so a full drivers sill has been ordered and more goodies on payday :) Edited May 28, 2012 by scottg17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidrick Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Christ. You're a braver man than I! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottg17 Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Christ. You're a braver man than I! Just daft.. worst case scenario It'll need to be broken for bits or reshelled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyb0127 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Doesn't look to bad, I've seen a lot worse and done a lot worse. When you cut the sill off jut check the lip at bottom, it's part of the inner sill just to make sure the corrosion hasn't crept up any further.With the rear chassis rails, if you lift the boot mat up. Look to the left (n/s chassis) you will see the spot welds for the chassis rails. It will be easier to drill them out from the boot floor save laying underneath doing it. You'll need to remove rear bumper as it also welds to the rear panel. You can drill straight through spot welds it doesn't matter.Once the chassis rails are removed, make sure all the metal is clean fit new chassis rails. Where you have drilled the spot welds out you should see the new chassis butted up to the floor. The holes you have drilled are what you will be plug welding, this way it's puts back the same amount of welds it had in it. Make sure you disconnect the battery or use a surge protector. If you need any spotweld drills I've got loads at work your more than welcome to some of them mate save you buying them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmotorsport Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Bloody spot weld drills. Been through loads of them on the Cortina xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottg17 Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Doesn't look to bad, I've seen a lot worse and done a lot worse. When you cut the sill off jut check the lip at bottom, it's part of the inner sill just to make sure the corrosion hasn't crept up any further.With the rear chassis rails, if you lift the boot mat up. Look to the left (n/s chassis) you will see the spot welds for the chassis rails. It will be easier to drill them out from the boot floor save laying underneath doing it. You'll need to remove rear bumper as it also welds to the rear panel. You can drill straight through spot welds it doesn't matter.Once the chassis rails are removed, make sure all the metal is clean fit new chassis rails. Where you have drilled the spot welds out you should see the new chassis butted up to the floor. The holes you have drilled are what you will be plug welding, this way it's puts back the same amount of welds it had in it. Make sure you disconnect the battery or use a surge protector. If you need any spotweld drills I've got loads at work your more than welcome to some of them mate save you buying them. That would be excellent! have drilled the upper spot welds out with a boggo standard metal drill and a cold chisel but ended up going right through one lol pm me your paypal details and what your needing for postage and all that and ill sort you out Been looking chassis sections and can see 2 different types. Ones the repair section and the other is the full members. Repair SectionsFull Sections Might sound like a complete thicko but im guessing the repair sections are more or less just a skin that goes over the existing rot and grot to kindof just hide it rather than rectify it. If so im guessing that the full rails wouldn't be much harder to fit. Its all new territory to me this but I'm not the kinda person that'll give it up without giving it a go first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScORTED Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 repair sections are generally for chopping out the rotten bit and putting new metal in, whereas a full section is the whole part; for example an arch repair panel is probably two inches thing to replace the commonly rusty part of the arch whereas a full panel with the whole arch as it would come from ford joining to the sill and the rear panel etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersport Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 i've seem both cover rails and full rails. cover one is just that, and the full one has the captive nuts welded on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyb0127 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Doesn't look to bad, I've seen a lot worse and done a lot worse. When you cut the sill off jut check the lip at bottom, it's part of the inner sill just to make sure the corrosion hasn't crept up any further.With the rear chassis rails, if you lift the boot mat up. Look to the left (n/s chassis) you will see the spot welds for the chassis rails. It will be easier to drill them out from the boot floor save laying underneath doing it. You'll need to remove rear bumper as it also welds to the rear panel. You can drill straight through spot welds it doesn't matter.Once the chassis rails are removed, make sure all the metal is clean fit new chassis rails. Where you have drilled the spot welds out you should see the new chassis butted up to the floor. The holes you have drilled are what you will be plug welding, this way it's puts back the same amount of welds it had in it. Make sure you disconnect the battery or use a surge protector. If you need any spotweld drills I've got loads at work your more than welcome to some of them mate save you buying them. That would be excellent! have drilled the upper spot welds out with a boggo standard metal drill and a cold chisel but ended up going right through one lol pm me your paypal details and what your needing for postage and all that and ill sort you out Been looking chassis sections and can see 2 different types. Ones the repair section and the other is the full members. Repair SectionsFull SectionsGMight sound like a complete thicko but im guessing the repair sections are more or less just a skin that goes over the existing rot and grot to kindof just hide it rather than rectify it. If so im guessing that the full rails wouldn't be much harder to fit. Its all new territory to me this but I'm not the kinda person that'll give it up without giving it a go first Repair panel is normally half of what a full chassis would be. I'd say go down the route of a repair chassis. You will still need to cut the old piece of chassis out to fit the new one, I'd wouldn't put it straight over the top of the old chassis, as this will just trap the rust in between the old and new chassis and eventually you'll be back to square one again. To fit the whole rear chassis would be a more involved job, as I'm sure the rear suspension bolts upto it. So if you fit a whole one you would need to make sure it's in the right place, specially as you would be doing both it would really need mounting on a body jig with brackets and measuring point to make sure there in the correct place, that sound a bit much but as the suspension bolts to it is rather it was in the correct place. Which is why I said go down the route of the repair one, but wait until it turns up, so you can see how far it goes whi h I would imagine stops around where the rear cross member is, providing there's no rust after the cross member, I'd join it just before it. Bloody spot weld drills. Been through loads of them on the Cortina xDLol tell me bout it chris we get through shyte loads at, specially with this boron steel they don't even touch it just blunts them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmotorsport Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Bloody spot weld drills. Been through loads of them on the Cortina xDLol tell me bout it chris we get through shyte loads at, specially with this boron steel they don't even touch it just blunts them.Haha, aye. Angle grinder blades too! Went through about five cutting a sheet of carbon fibre! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottg17 Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 Progress Wing Off No major issues under here (thank god!) Wing... Rotten! Other sill aint as bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidrick Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Good work. Looking forward to seeing it progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee grout Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Good :Get to see some great progress pics going from shite to great.Bad : Rot like that is good for no-one, it gets expensive and like cancer is rarely fully cured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottg17 Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 Good :Get to see some great progress pics going from shite to great.Bad : Rot like that is good for no-one, it gets expensive and like cancer is rarely fully cured. I know... but I'll give it a bash and hopefully ill get some fun out of it in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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