Stu Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 For what power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottybo Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 For what power? bout 200-230as i said nothing super fancy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 For what power? bout 200-230as i said nothing super fancy See my guide here: http://www.escortevolution.co.uk/forums/in...howtopic=130410 200bhp Zetec turbo is listed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 next chapter?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottybo Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 updates this thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 (edited) Ok.. so after you have your breather sorted... .. time to start the final build. Block still clean. Mains on block are deburred after line-boring/honing. Main bearings are test fitted into block: .. same with the main caps, deburred, cleaned and bearings fitted: Not all zetec bearings are the same.. some need a bit of filing to enable fitment.. basically some caps have a groove for the locating protrusion on the bearing, some don't.. no pics unfortunately, but I think a couple of the main caps needing some filing for the bearing to fit.. better to have the notches than not, may reduce risk of spinning a bearing! .. clean crank placed onto mains: .. and caps fastened down.. no torque wrench needed for this step, just do it by hand until reasonabley tight: Random photo of some piston rings: .. and rings fitted to pistons and pistons fitted to rods.. C20LET pistons need some modifying for use in a Zetec.. covered later.. .. Farndon rods come with pre-greased ARP bolts.. can't remember if they were 8 or 9mm.. doubt it really matters at this power level.. .. quick photo showing piston skirt modification required when running this piston and standard zetec oil squirters: Some additional modification to the piston is required, to clear the top of the rod inside/under the crown... no photos of that but it's pretty self-explanatory.. .. piston #1 plopped into the hole.. .. all four pistons in cylinders.. light oil used to prepare the pistons and cylinders for insertion.. ooer.. next step is get the rods in the right place and tap the pistons down the bores until contact.. be careful though, the edge of the rod is probably sharper than the crank journals.. damage can easily occur! (hint: two hand job) .. and now they're home! .. you can just about see from this next photo the deck protrusion of using the C20LET pistons.. is about -3mm.. which is the main reason for the drop in compression ratio.. doesn't help squish though, but it seems to work.. .. random photo of under-side now rods are torqued down.. Looks a bit of a mess, rusty etc. This is typical when using a camera flash on naked iron! It makes it look worse than it is.. you can coat everything in light oil to keep it 'wet' during the build.. but then that can attract dirt.. it's a balancing act.. .. cleaned/prep'd cylinder head placed onto block, using a standard Ford multi-layer steel head gasket.. can't remember which, there are two - Focus RS and ST170 (some other engines share them).. ST170 is the thickest, four layer IIRC.. safest option.. it's not an issue though with these pistons.. .. head most likely torqued down by now.. always mark the top of the head bolts so you know your 90 degrees on final torque... you can use a large angle meter too, but I do it the old school way.. Cams placed onto head.. .. both cams torqued down.. DTI gauge and crank/cam angle/timing disc fitted with marker.. you may be wondering why i'm doing this... .. you'll notice the cam locking tool in place (a file!).. .. and inlet cam.. back out! Why you say.. what's wrong with it.. what did it do.. why so mean.. .. mean? yes.. Why's it in a vise... And here's another action shot for theatrical effect.. .. oh noes.. something's missing.. can you tell what.. do you know what it is yet? .. until next time! Edited December 11, 2013 by Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottybo Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 well that was easy, maybe i should type 'update this thread' on everyones build threads lol the cam locking lobe bit is missing, i assume for adjustable pulleys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 .. the OE/stock pulleys are fully adjustable! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_big_man Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 did it break by chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 did it break by chance? The camshaft, or the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongo Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Something to do with the cam phase sensor?timing wise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 Something to do with the cam phase sensor? Why yes, yes it is. The ECU I was using on this project (Pectel T2) is a bit sensitive on inductive sensors. The amount of magnetic flux generated by the cam locking portion at the end of the cam shaft can confusing the ECU at higher RPM, so the solution is to cut it off! The phase sensor still needed to be spaced out by 1mm or so to work properly. So this is why the cam timing was being checked a few photos ago.. to enable the inlet cam to be timed back in properly without the locking tool in place! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 .. a very poor, blurry/artyfarty shot of the effect: .. water pump fitted: .. and arbitrary shot for some cam pulleys! .. ok so onward.. next task was to figure out where the turbo oil drain was going to run so the sump could be modified.. escort rs turbo manifold and t3 bolted up as a mock up to get an idea.. final turbocharged will be a T34 so everything is in the same place. .. some parts back from the powder coaters.. took forever to remove all the masking (which bakes and goes brittle whilst being coated).. important to mask everything off though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) .. new cam belt fitted, cams timed in appropriately.. starting to resemble an engine.. .. powder-coated cam cover installed: .. 130ps throttle body.. plate cleaned up (not the best idea as it removes an anti-muck coating).. .. fuel injector rail & holder/spacer/whateverpart fitted.. Yes.. using side-fed injectors.. no, not bad-fitting Nissan ones.. .. oil pump, pick-up pipe, windage tray etc.. all fitted.. new gaskets all round.. .. inlet manifold installed .. escort rs turbo exhaust manifold adapter plate bolted up to engine.. from interpro.. was pricey.. £150 IIRC.. stainless, not the best design.. but adequate.. using Mondeo studs in the head with the torx heads.. much better than the OE stuff.. shot-blasted erst manifold.. .. 240mm/MTX75 flywheel.. freshly skimmed.. .. sump back from fabricators.. return welded into sump... .. Pectel T2 ECU.. Cossie/Weber water and air temp sensors.. T34 turbocharger.. .63 a/r exhaust housing.. .. exhaust manifold bolted up to adapter plate.. You may also notice tin heat shield around crank sensor.. this is pretty important when using this manifold/setup.. .. 4.5 bar fuel pressure reg fitted.. .. and one of the more exciting photos.. turbocharger bolted up to engine.. .. and there was much rejoicing! .. new thermostat housing/stat fitted.. pricey.. don't rush into buying one of these! .. OE fuel lines fitted to fuel rail.. .. starting to look at the oil return hose.. a bit chunk of silicone like this isn't ideal or wanted, but I was being lazy.. you're better off with a rigid pipe as much as you can get away with, with a silicone joiner/coupler to handle vibration and heat movement.. .. and the other end.. turbo oil feed with filter installed.. using an rs turbo t-piece off the back of the block.. where the oil pressure switch goes.. very adequate.. .. and finished oil drain.. brazed pipe at the top to the flange... .. coil-pack re-fitted.. water temp sensor installed... .. new dip-stick tube.. Lovely oil filter.. .. and a lovely set of Bosch/Cosworth 400cc/min side-feed injectors.. this is the real deal, the proper injectors to use in these conversions.. o-rings fit properly.. enough for 320bhp @ 4.5 bar pressure.. (I have some for sale!).. .. and that's pretty much it for the build.. engine was at this point ready to go on the dyno to be mapped.. watch this space (reply so I can post more pics).. Edited December 12, 2013 by Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottybo Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 how much would a set of injectors like this go for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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