bongo Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 flywheel locking tool,would be a good idea, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-3575-Flywh...=item1c2b6ceb99 £16 but it can be a right pain to remove the bolts even when the engine is out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etrebus Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Is this how the rear crank seal is on a 2.0l Silvertop? http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr167/mike-evans/crankshaft_oil_seal.jpgyes you need to do that exact same job the housing/carrier is removed so you can push out the seal ,in theory you could do it without removing the housing but you would probably damage the new one putting it back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-evans Posted November 30, 2012 Author Share Posted November 30, 2012 I prefer it this way, just seems to be a easier method.. Im hopeing the flywheel bolts wont be too tight as they havent long been off when Ryan done the 2.0l conversion.. Next, Im wanting advise/tips from anyone whoz dropped the box whilst engine is staying in the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etrebus Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 I prefer it this way, just seems to be a easier method.. Im hopeing the flywheel bolts wont be too tight as they havent long been off when Ryan done the 2.0l conversion.. Next, Im wanting advise/tips from anyone whoz dropped the box whilst engine is staying in the car what do you need to know ?the most difficult bits are removing the rear gearbox mount and popping out the shafts o/s is easy n/s can be a bit troublesome .you will also need some thing to support the engine when you remove the box a strong piece of wood will do sat between the wing rails and a rope/strap to the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-evans Posted November 30, 2012 Author Share Posted November 30, 2012 TBH I think I know whats got to be done, just always a little daughnting.... Am I right in thinking that the sump has to be removed? Looks like the seal housing forms part of the mating surface for the sump.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etrebus Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 TBH I think I know whats got to be done, just always a little daughnting.... Am I right in thinking that the sump has to be removed? Looks like the seal housing forms part of the mating surface for the sump..you might have to yes, im not to sure if it will come out without removing the sump .you may be able to just slacken it off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmotorsport Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Putting the gearbox back in, by yourself, without damaging the clutch cover is the biggest pain in the a55. Be very, very careful not to nudge the clutch cover with the input shaft, if you knock on of those fingers and it bends you need a new cover. Remove the rear gearbox mount from the car completely, that helps. Also removing passenger side wishbone might give you some clearance when re-fitting the gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongo Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 the bolts are done upto 112nm so they re not going to come off easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidrick Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 the bolts are done upto 112nm so they re not going to come off easy. Is 112nm not easy down south? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmotorsport Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 the bolts are done upto 112nm so they re not going to come off easy. Is 112nm not easy down south? I did wonder, whats that in real money, like 80 lb ft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongo Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 the bolts are done upto 112nm so they re not going to come off easy. Is 112nm not easy down south? lol,of course,but when your trying to stop a flywheel turning with out the proper locking tool its quite hard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-evans Posted December 1, 2012 Author Share Posted December 1, 2012 Ford want £59+VAT for the rear crank seal kit, which I assume is the seal and the housing, but he couldnt confirm, so wont know if its the seal and housing or just the seal until I order it and its delivered... Local motor factors LDS £8+VAT for the seal..... How good are the seals that motor factors sell?The guy said they are the same as OEM, but are they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 The crank seal the other end looked different from the genuine and the one from euro car parts. I would always go genuine. Whilst it is out I would do the housing as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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