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Engine change


Mike-evans

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My GTi engine has pretty much had it, sourced a good 2.0l to fit in...

 

Never done a engine change before, so I do have some questions:

 

- Would I be best removing the engine and box in 1, or split it in the car?

- Can I pull the driveshafts out of the inner CVs and leave the CVs in the box?

- How many fixing point is the engine held in on?

 

Really fancy giving this a go, have the garage space and help, also would like to save the ~£300 garage labour....

 

The enigne has recently come out of a MK6, so ready to fit...

 

Any other info you can offer would be much appreciated...

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HG is seeping coolant - pressureising cooling system, starting to burn oil. Cant be certain its the valve seals without removing the head, and then that means money, so I've decided to get a good running engine fitted, and have found a good running 2.0l, so this is the route I'm now going down.....

 

Next step is to get it fitted, and will be phoning around today for engine change quotes, thats if garages will do the 1.8-2.0l swap....or do it myself..?

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I can't say i've donned the spanners myself on an engine swap, but I would expect you'd be able to detach the lower arms and pull the drive shafts out of the box. Engine should be held it by three points.. one on the engine, two on the transmission..
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i have the haynes on disc mike, will also give you a hand if you want,keep the engine and box together and drop out the bottom,remove lower arms,pull the shafts out and tie up,its quite easy once you done a few lol
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I concur, dropping the engine and box out together via the bottom is by far the easiest solution, even with a engine hoist such as the one Ive got its still a better option to just use it to lower the engine down than to lift it out, its just easier and clearer that way.
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thanks for the reply guys...

 

So best option is drop it through the bottom, so lift it off the mounts and lower to the floor? Lift front end of car up to give enough room to pull engine and box out underneath?

 

Does the rad need to be removed?

Edited by Mike-evans
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I guess that'd depend on how high you can lift the car to get the engine out from underneath!

 

 

also were a hoist comes in handy, drop the engine onto the floor (or a mechanics crawl board or at a push a sturdy skateboard) then transfer the hoist hooks to the engine mount points still in the bay and lift the front up (which is considerably lighter without the lump in their), then scoot the engine out ands scoot the newun into its place....then lower the car back over.

 

at the risk of Haynesing.... re-fitment is the reverse of removal etc

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will defenatley be doing this myself, well with a little help :D

 

another question, when I fit the non-pats ECU, will this affect my Toad alarm and immobiliser?

 

Depends how the toad was wired in, but my viper wasn't. I think aren't the CAT1 meant to be separate to the the ford immobilisers?

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Have you considered just changing the gasket. It's really not too hard for a rough idea you can look at my show us your motor thread. Took me a week and a half, weather slowed me down, and silly mistakes. But its worth considering as you know its done then, the gasket on the new engine could blow in a couple of miles. You'd be back to square one then. Cost 45 quid all in.
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I have considered chainging the HG, infact this is the road I was going down, until I noticed it was burning oil. When the HG was going to be done, the valve seals and cam seals were going to be replaced, so this could well of stopped the burning of oil, or it might be the bottom end and then still burn oil once Ive spent time and money doing the head and HG......

 

Now I've found a lower mileage 2.0l engine converted to fit the mk6, this is the road I'm now gojng down and will carry out the engine change myself..

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