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Show Us Your Snake...


EscortNreg

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im not disagreeing with your reasoning, and personally im all for your ideas of whats best, afterall its actually great to hear people on forums other than a reptile 1 that seem to know their stuff! Its a rare thing...many a times ive gone onto other forums and hear people talking about their beardie in a cage thats not oven 3ft long, and they want to add another 2! Then they wonder why they fight!!!

 

Or having royals on heat mats, or no stats...does my head in to know that these idiots not only exist, but they own animals they havent got a clue about!

 

Its ok for people to make errors, ive done the same, but to then argue with you that they know what they are doing is beyond belief!

 

But anyway, back to the subject, a red or green bulb are also a good choice if you want the slightly cheaper option, plus it allows you to see when the snake is out and about at night as the colour doesnt bother them...I watch my royal in the evening out climbing around or having a bath, and the bulb (aslong as your room isnt freezing) should only be on a slight amount, which allows you to still enjoy your viv and snake at lights out. If its too bright after lights out, then your room is either cold, or your night temperature is too high

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im not disagreeing with your reasoning, and personally im all for your ideas of whats best, afterall its actually great to hear people on forums other than a reptile 1 that seem to know their stuff! Its a rare thing...many a times ive gone onto other forums and hear people talking about their beardie in a cage thats not oven 3ft long, and they want to add another 2! Then they wonder why they fight!!!

 

Or having royals on heat mats, or no stats...does my head in to know that these idiots not only exist, but they own animals they havent got a clue about!

 

Its ok for people to make errors, ive done the same, but to then argue with you that they know what they are doing is beyond belief!

 

But anyway, back to the subject, a red or green bulb are also a good choice if you want the slightly cheaper option, plus it allows you to see when the snake is out and about at night as the colour doesnt bother them...I watch my royal in the evening out climbing around or having a bath, and the bulb (aslong as your room isnt freezing) should only be on a slight amount, which allows you to still enjoy your viv and snake at lights out. If its too bright after lights out, then your room is either cold, or your night temperature is too high

 

 

cheers, new nothing about snakes (at all) untill i started reading dec/jan! :)

 

i started off like escortnreg with a corn with aspen bedding a small waterbowl that doubled as a hids and a heatmap with no stat, glad to say within a couple of days reading he was in a diff viv on a stat...petshops are often the biggest foes to reptile keeping and why people get high and mighty when told they are doing something wrong.

 

as you say tho its nice to see people with different interests especially if they are knowledgeable like yourself or willing to learn like escortnreg etc.

 

they are great pets imo and whats even better they take the most minimal amount of care. once you have the initial set up clean them out once a month ish (obv remove poo at the time) change water once a day (every couple) and feed once a week-once a month depending on size and breed. what more can you want?

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or, you can own a royal and pull your hair out when they stop eating hahaha!!

 

Mine refused food for about 6 months...I was really worried, tried everything to get him to eat with no avail

 

Done more research and had everyone say the same thing "Welcome to the land of royal owning" haha!

 

Needless to say, eventually I offered him a rat and whack, gone! Then every week after that he ate, yet he hasnt gone off food over this winter, only last!

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lol i hear they are buggers. my corn is a pig and would eat untill he popped if i let him, lizzy the boa will only eat at night on her own in her viv and has ate everytime bar once (at weekend) but garuntee she will tonight when i put it in.

 

after a burmese or similar in about a year :)

 

theres so many diff ways of trying to get them to feed when they are akward its scary! its amazing how long they can go without food tho. some wel over a year!

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Burms are nice, but they need alot of care when handling as they can give a nasty bite when they are half way grown, or fully grown! A guy I used to be mates with (till he backstabbed my other half) had a 14ft burm, and he was absolutely gorgeous!

 

Not my kind of snake, not really into large snakes that could eat my son haha! But still, full respect to them as they are nice snakes when looked after...Although I still need a large viv for my iguana, but he is still only a baby

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Burms are nice, but they need alot of care when handling as they can give a nasty bite when they are half way grown, or fully grown! A guy I used to be mates with (till he backstabbed my other half) had a 14ft burm, and he was absolutely gorgeous!

 

Not my kind of snake, not really into large snakes that could eat my son haha! But still, full respect to them as they are nice snakes when looked after...Although I still need a large viv for my iguana, but he is still only a baby

 

 

i like bigger snakes, thatl prob be my last one. im hoping it will get out and eat my grans cocker spaniel pebbles, it is THE most annoying thick dog in the world.

 

my mate had a 25yo python and it was great only thing im wary of is the weight but i will be finding some to handle etc before i consider buying one.

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as some people say, which I feel is wise...NEVER try to handle a large snake like that on your own, not mainly due to weight, but if for some reason it tries to have you and you have no1 around to help, then your screwed!

 

Yeah it wont eat you as its impossible, but dont stop it hurting or choking you!

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directly down onto floor with a hide in its vicinity for your warm end hide and obv the other hide the opposite end in the cool end. not all do but i have 2 water bowls in my boas viv one hot end one cool end. my corn only has one tho.
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best directly down, your not trying to give a basking spot, your mainly needing to give an air temperature

 

your other best bet would be to look for something like this, http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35037

 

You put 1 part up 1 end, and the other down at the other end, this will give you a better idea of the temperature ranges as you want a cooler end so that the snake can cool down if needed, and then go to the other end for heat

 

1 bit of advice I will give, and this is not in anyway saying your stupid if you hadnt thought of it, but IGNORE the temperature ranges it gives on the habistat till you have sorted out where the probe will sit, you can have it set on 32 degrees, yet the tank air temp could be less or more....This thermometer will help give you the readings you need, any dual outdoor/indoor thermostat will help, the readings on the stat will give a rough idea, but you need it set up 1st

 

Quick question, do you have a dimmer or pulse stat? Its just pulse stats are no good with a bulb, and dimmer arent very good with ceramic bulbs

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directly down onto floor with a hide in its vicinity for your warm end hide and obv the other hide the opposite end in the cool end. not all do but i have 2 water bowls in my boas viv one hot end one cool end. my corn only has one tho.

 

I have two rock hides, 2 wooden hides and 2 water bowls...

 

best directly down, your not trying to give a basking spot, your mainly needing to give an air temperature

 

your other best bet would be to look for something like this, http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35037

 

You put 1 part up 1 end, and the other down at the other end, this will give you a better idea of the temperature ranges as you want a cooler end so that the snake can cool down if needed, and then go to the other end for heat

 

1 bit of advice I will give, and this is not in anyway saying your stupid if you hadnt thought of it, but IGNORE the temperature ranges it gives on the habistat till you have sorted out where the probe will sit, you can have it set on 32 degrees, yet the tank air temp could be less or more....This thermometer will help give you the readings you need, any dual outdoor/indoor thermostat will help, the readings on the stat will give a rough idea, but you need it set up 1st

 

Quick question, do you have a dimmer or pulse stat? Its just pulse stats are no good with a bulb, and dimmer arent very good with ceramic bulbs

 

I have 2 gigi thermometres, one each end.. if you look at the pics of my viv, you will see 2 black dots on the back wall, one either end, they are the thermometre probes.

 

So your saying agust the thermostat to make the thermometre readings right, dont just trust the set temp on the thermostat?

 

I have a dimming thermostat, will it work with a ceramic heater?

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its a hard 1 to explain without it sounding stupid...But basically, the readins written on the stat say 30, but it will not give an air temp of 30 if the probe is too high, low, or close to the bulb, so you need to move it around so that it can keep a constant air temp

 

I did this with mine, I was very surprised at the difference in air temp to what I believed it to be!

 

As for the stats, ive heard a few people say that they do the job, but not as good as a bulb with a dimmer, or a ceramic with a pulse stat

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with my probe i keep it as low as can without the snake being able to cover it causing the heater to get to hot, that way the temp on the floor where the snake spends most of its time tends to be about rite, it might be hotter higher up but its where the snakes at that bothers me.

 

i need to get some decent thermometers as these exoterra ones are crap lol

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